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New here, need help on first AR10


creepin722

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About your 3rd photo the BCG is slammed tight against the "ears" there should be some clearance. May need a couple quarters for spacing behind the spring. You will need to remove gas tube to get a good measurement,  before that measure how short it is from hitting center of cam cutout so you will know  how much longer to order the new one. Reading on a smartphone so if this was already covered ignore!

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26 minutes ago, creepin722 said:

here’s a better picture of the BCG being pushed down into the buffer tube with the buffer and spring.

6E3CD648-1831-436F-BAB1-652A5C1EBC69.jpeg

That won't imitate recoil, from a round fired. It won't imitate the amount of compression that the bumper on the end of the buffer will compress - depending on the recoil system specs, and the gas system specs.  Enough Ass, for the Mass?  Maybe not.

This is a tough sell with you, man.  You need to understand this.  There IS a spec for a recoil system.  There IS a spec for a gas system.  Armalite designed it -  Eugene Stoner designed it.  It WORKS.  Everything else, that every other man  "Manufacturer" is doing, is whatever they want to do.  Bastardize THIS to make THIS work...  It's a band-aid, on the wrong cut.  You're bleeding out...

You've been asked for information, to help your gun run.  You've been guided to threads that specify (#1) what this information is, and how to prove it - pics, measurements, etc, and (#2) why that is important for a functional gas gun rifle.

You have avoided providing that information, at the least, or, you don't understand that information provided to you, and how to comply, at the most.  If it's the latter, or those two, then just explain what you're not understanding here, about the information provided, and why it's necessary. If it's the former, and you just don't want to comply, think this is a stupid process - then I'm out.  I'm not helping anymore, in the least.

You figure this out.  Everything has been laid out before you, given on a FREE INFORMATION Silver Platter to you.  Give up information - we fix your gun, and make it run.  At this point, it's not in our hands anymore...  

Hope that makes sense.

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-98Z5V- Dude chill out, I’ve stated multiple times I’m new to it and not knowledgeable on the subject…

I’ve provided the information that I know and I followed the “waterboarding” thread and provided the information in that thread (step 1-12). Reading the information on this forum is equivalent to learning a new language.

I’ve also asked if I was measuring the gas tube correctly or not and etc. Thanks to Albroswift, I know I’ll need to remove the gas tube after measuring how much longer I need to reach the center of the cam cut out. 

27D6917D-A538-41DC-882B-ACF0C64D81A4.png

D78E216D-301C-4778-AA35-85DA6DFF804F.png

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23 hours ago, creepin722 said:

The gas port is 5/64”

 

Here's a tip for getting a more accurate gas port measurement.  If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, go pick up one of these:

Numbered drill bit set

They're not great drills, but they make for handy measuring tools.

You can then use this chart to convert the numbered sizes to inch sizes.

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1 hour ago, RacerX said:

 

Here's a tip for getting a more accurate gas port measurement.  If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, go pick up one of these:

Numbered drill bit set

They're not great drills, but they make for handy measuring tools.

You can then use this chart to convert the numbered sizes to inch sizes.

After using the numbered drill, measure it with a caliper, sometimes the shafts (And cutters) do not match the decimal chart (Harbor freight...)

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2 hours ago, Armed Eye Doc said:

Center of pin hole to the tip is 0.600 inches.

The distance between the center of the gas tube retaining pin and the end of the gas tube is 0.187"(+/- 0.003"). The distance between the center of the gas opening on the bottom of the gas tube and the end of the gas tube is 0.605"(+/-0.005")

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20 hours ago, creepin722 said:

-98Z5V- Dude chill out, I’ve stated multiple times I’m new to it and not knowledgeable on the subject…

Just telling you what we need to know about the gun, and that doesn't make you happy.  I'll chill out, just as you've asked.  Have fun with it, hope you get it running right.   Adios.  :thumbup:

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Unfortunately I do not have a harbor freight nearby, but I was able to find something that fits in the gas port and measure it to 0.0860. (I am currently checking Lowe’s/ Home Depot for numbered drill bits) 

gas tube is 11 and 9/16 from center of retaining pin to end of gas tube. I would need 0.200” longer to reach the center of the cam cut out.

Then I would add the 11 9/16 + 0.200 + either 0.187 or 0.1765 and that would give me the gas tube length I need?

Should I remove the gas tube from the block as well or wait?

UPDATE: I am waiting on the heavier buffer and orange spring. They have been shipped. 

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Thanks for everyone being patient with me. When I say I’m not knowledgeable I mean it. I usually just buy a factory gun that’s ready to go out of the box. 
I didn’t know there was so many details and precise measurements that goes into one of these guns. I’m definitely learning but it’s a slow process understanding everything. 

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On 4/4/2023 at 10:25 AM, shooterrex said:

Just measure the gas tube to the pin hole while still in the gas block.

Then just measure another gas tube from the pin hole to the end and add the two measurements.

 

Every single gas tube that's properly made is 0.600" longer, after the center of the gas port, to the very end.  All of them. They're exactly 0.400" from the center of the gas port, to the center of the roll pin hole.  They are 0.200" from the center of the roll pin hole, to the end of the gas tube.  All of them. The plug in the end of the gas tube is double-crimped - one crimp before the roll pin hole, and once crimp after the roll pin hole.  The crimps don't necessarily keep the plug in place, under firing pressure - but the roll pin does.

If they are NOT those measurements, they are not made correctly, and may not function.  Just the facts, and the numbers.  Eugene Stoner wasn't stupid, and he didn't do complicated shiit - he just designed what worked - and he worked with common numbers, not complicated numbers.

Just for future reference, going forward. 

Edited by 98Z5V
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