survivalshop

ZZZZZZZZZZ <lmao> She is good though .

Well , I surpose , deforming a bullet upon feeding , is always a possibility , but how would you know .

Just how long did it take to cut through it & did he cut through enough to remove items in the box ? Most thieves don't bring power tools with them & if you leave a cutting torch set up or cutting tools next to your safe , your asking for trouble . <dontknow>

That gas block may just have something blocking or restricting gas flow or passages drilled incorrectly . you say its adjustable , is it adjusting ?

Yes , you can hide them , but being in an apartment, that may be difficult . I can think of a lot of out of the way spots that no normal burglar would find or look in , but I have a large house , not an apartment . I like the gang box idea, if a safe is not reachable to purchase , if too light , just add weights or lead to the bottom of it or chain it to something hard to move around . Anything , as said here , is better than leaving them out behind the door or in a closet.

Last Beaver I saw , I put a 12g a. slug into it , End of story . Same with last Deer I saw, 12g a. slug into it , end of story . Life works out so much better that way ! <laughs>

One of my shooting bro's has a small gang box in the trunk of his car for holding his firearms ( & its bolted down ), I always laugh at it when he opens his trunk , but its a good idea & it works for him. So , they do make them smaller than the ones shown above , but unless you plan on bolting a smaller one down ( hard to do in a rented apartment sometimes ) a smaller one would be too easy to walk away with . I also don't believe that most break ins are random , most of these rip off's are cased out first , they know if you have dogs ,who's home & when & also what may be in your house .

I think most of us grew up with out safes in the house & that's OK . Now a days , things are a little different then we grew up & if for anything , a safe is exactly what it says " Safe ". We were trained to stay away , but what about visitors children or to keep POS thief's from taking our valuable's. Any Safe is better than none ! Buy what you can afford & if & when you can swing a better one , do so .

It worked yesterday , he must have deleted it on Photo bucket. I like that one also & will have to order one like it soon .

I've been using a RCBS primer pocket swagger for a very, very long time . You will still find a tight one now & then & still need to do a little reaming , but it will not be much if you do . Depends on the brass , I still ream some ,because some crimped primers are not that bad. Swagger will not work with progressive presses with there own shell plates . If you don't have a single stage press , Lee has inexpensive press's that can be used for this procedure & many others . I also use my single stage for bullet pulling.

Well said !

Double sided tape , the industrial type , should hold them . <dontknow>

Gander Mountain has Liberty safes , Dick's Sporting goods has Cannon . I think booth have Stack On's also.

I'd stay away also. On a side note , I made a hand guard wrench , like is being talked about , over thirty years ago , because if you wanted a free float hand guard , Olympic Arms was the only one out there & it was just an Aluminum Tube ( I have a match one , made of steel ,never used it )with a barrel nut made in one piece. Similar as to the DPMS & others out there . Most used a strap wrench , as some do today , but I made a wrench out of a piece of pipe & ground & cut pegs to engage the holes in the Barrel nut , with a socket welded to the tube to use a torque wrench on them . Still works to this day , because I used it to change my pre ban AR's upper to a flat top last year. It is a crude device , that just works . If I get a chance , I will take a photo of it , so you'll can get a good laugh .

Load it till you no longer feel safe with it , that do contain a small explosion in the chamber, so safety first. I now anneal brass also after a couple of reloading's , seems to me the bullet seating pressure is more uniform & that can only be good for accuracy . Not to mention, as you said , brass's length of service. This stuff is not getting any cheaper or easier to find . I've neve used Wolf brand or any steel cased ammo & mine does send the spent brass into the next county though .This rifle I have is the most accurate AK , I have ever shot .

Annealed about 100 LC 308 brass today , took longer to mark them with the Temperature indicator then to anneal them .

Brass was never intended to be reused , us reloaders just like to stretch there usefulness . My Romanian AK in 5.56x45 doesn't do that . What ammo you using ?

I can't read Russian , so no idea what they are pointing art on the schematic photo . <laughs> Looks interesting

Yes , probably worth more as a factory complete rifle .

Its a DPMS compatible upper .

That looks official <thumbsup>

Good to see her running correctly . <thumbsup>

So you must not want much barrel past the hand guard then .

Now all you need is this ! <thumbsup> Your cut off operator seems to be looking over her safety glasses <laughs> I was going to chop some 5.56 myself this weekend .

17 " hand guard ? ( free float tube )