392heminut

Mine too, that's why I buy them! <thumbsup>

You KNOW you need a couple of spares in the gun vault Angel! <lmao>

Yup! I just ordered 4 of them! :banana: Free shipping on orders over $50 too! Just put 'FREE50' in the discount code box at checkout.

Copes Distributing has Anderson AR15 blem lower receivers for sale for $35.99. I've used these receivers and they are good to go, and damned if I can find the blems on the ones I've used! http://www.copesdistributing.com/anderson-blem-stripped-lower-receivers-open-trigger-guard-p-7708.html

But you don't get to pull the trigger 100 times either! <hump> <laughs>

Nice! <thumbsup>

Guess I'll jump in.

What Tom said! It's pretty quiet but that supersonic crack can do damage without you even realizing it. It's like shooting a .22 rifle, it doesn't really bother you, but you know it's causing damage to your hearing.

Yeah, you're right! Sorry about that brother! It's just that whenever someone posts military grade schit I guess 'Tom' pops into my head!

I've gotten to shoot my friend's M4 2000 on his SBR a few times. Cans are fun!

I just got 500 of these 120 gr. plated bullets to try out for plinking; http://bms.highbornoutdoors.com/index.php?_a=product&product_id=66

Yup, I've got a little over 2K rounds of cut down .223 brass and not one case of factory brass. I don't have a Sheridan gauge but the majority of my brass is Lake City which has not been a problem as far as too thick in the neck area. I think I've had to toss around 5 or 6 out of that stuff because it wouldn't chamber. I've shot around 800 rounds through my pistol build so far, mostly loaded with M80 ball but some have been with some 190 Gr. SPBT blems I got from Midway and some with Nosler 110 gr. Varmageddon bullets. I haven't even bought any factory loads!

Yeah, you probably want to keep that in the privacy of your home! <thumbsup> <lmao> <laughs>

The guys over on the other forum have said tht the Wilson gauge only checks headspace off the shoulder of the case and doesn't gauge the neck diameter, which can be an issue with some of the cutdown .223 brass being used for 300 BLK. The Sheridan does gauge the neck diameter and that is why the 300 BLK crowd uses it.

Probably not since it's not available to the general public. But then again, we ARE talking about Tom!

^^^^This. A lot of the guys I shoot with in USPSA use the Peltors and really like them. I've had 2 pair of Pro Ears and will not spend another dime with them. Both pair had one side go bad and their customer service left a very bad taste in my mouth. I'm going with the Peltors if I can ever quit spending money on gun parts long enough to get a new pair!

If your talking about the gauges used for checking loaded ammo the guys over at 300blktalk.com all swear by the Sheridan gauge and most recommend the slotted one.

Magwa, I've used the Aluma hyde paint and really like it but if you go that route make sure you get the extra spray nozzles. They WILL clog up, and usually right in the middle of a job. Oh, and while you're using it (and before starting) shake that can like it owes you money!

Nice! <thumbsup>

I never thought about the feedlip length! :bitchslap: Glad they took care of you. <thumbsup>

I'm going forward with it Tom. There's a lot of options but I think I've got mine figured out. I'm going with durability over weight and using a steel tube instead of titanium. I want this thing to be able to be used on my .308 and not be concerned about the threads holding up. There's been a lot of discussion about the thin area at the root of the threads and the steel tubes are pretty much a non-issue, titanium not so much. I'm going with a 1.5" X 8" configuration so it will fit inside the handguards on the 300 BLK pistols. I'll update this thread as it progresses.

You can have the parts, but DON'T drill out the endcap or the freezeplugs before you have the tax stamp! You apply for the tax stamp on a form 1 since you are manufacturing a silencer. If you have a gun trust you can efile the Form 1 and have the stamp in about 4-5 weeks. You'll have to put the Mfg's. name and location (city&state) on it, which would be you or in the case of using a trust the name of the trust, and the caliber, model, and serial #. The serial # is something you pick out but it can't be all letters, has to have at least 1 number in it. Most guys just list their serial # as the model # too on the form. The info has to be engraved in at least 1/16" or bigger letters and at least .003 deep into the metal. Most do the engraving on the tube but I've heard of a couple of guys doing it on the endcap. The engraving can be done at any time before assembly, but again, do not drill the endcap or build baffles before you have the tax stamp in hand!

Micro, that round is based off of the 5.56 case and is the same OAL as the 38 super. You should be able to use 38 super 1911 mags. RIA is putting out some pretty nice guns for the price points! <thumbsup>

Rob, it's my understanding that when you do the Form 1 you state the caliber of the can and that it can legally be used for any firearm of that caliber and lower. Some have serialized the endcap but most builders do the outer tube. There has even been a lot of discussion in those forums about different ways to go about doing the engraving! Those guys over there are a loquacious bunch! <lmao>

I'm giving some really serious thought to building a rifle suppressor. I'm a cheap bastard to start with and I like building stuff more than paying for something someone else built. SD Tactical (among others) has most of the stuff to build your own; http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/Hardware_c_8.html I can build a titanium suppressor for under $200 plus the ATF extortion tax stamp fee of $200. There's a couple of threads over on Arfcom, one is over 70 pages and one is over 110 pages, with a LOT of info on doing these. You just gotta wade through a lot of bullschit to find the good stuff. There's been some pretty good silencers turned out in some basements and garages!