Albroswift

No more photos, said he lost them in a fire. Also mentioned the bottom one was SBR and stamped. Fiber Laser engraver. So, put someone else's address on them and then register? Curious.

OP over at Hobby Machinist said aluminum, just looks like polymer due to lighting. Someone must have had it engraved just to stir up trouble. Good job, anyway. All the part kit stuff look milspec Need to see a photo of other side.

Anyone ever see Glock AR's before? New one for me. Brother over on the Hobby-Machinist forum. Something ain't right.

Most flake is just smashed ball anyway.. Some of those accurate powders are so fine I had to make a 1 piece powder bar for the Dillon for small charge weights, they gum up between the 2 sliding pieces in the 2 piece pistol bar.

Even if you are sure of that statement, ignoring extruded powders, doesn't really mean you can't use them in pistols and revolvers ( or long guns ) with flake powder. What would be your concern? A lot of good pistol powders are actually shotgun powders, and shoguns use shotgun primers. Doesn't mean I have to use shotgun primers with tightgroup in my 40SW or 44SP. All about development, not original intent.

Here is a reduced recoil 357 load with mag pistol primers and just a pinch of tightgroup, for example.

Why is that? I've run AA5, 3N37, ball powders with mag primers, but also Tightgroup and HP38 which are flake with mag pistol primers, didn't seem to be an issue. Seems like 10 or 12 years ago or so there was a component shortage, caught me a little shortand and I used mag primers for everything. Lots of 9mm steel plate league and 40SW uspsa. Pretty well stocked up before this one hit... .

IMAO small mag pistol primers can be used for small pistol data for any powder, and like @MikedaddyH says start a little towards the low end for safety, just like working up any new combination of components. I'm sure this oversimplifies the physics, but I believe that is because even though the powder is ignited a little faster, the bullet also picks up speed a little faster before it hits the lands so effectively balancing out the pressure curve/ spike. Anyway, never saw much of a velocity bump from the mag primers, or signs of over pressure. Crony Beta and LabRadar, semi's and revolvers

If you remember I replaced about everything except the BCG, barrel, and receivers and then Anderson said send it back and they replaced the receivers, barrel, gas tube and HG. Basically a new gun built around a BCG. (We've started with less if I remember)

That was my original Anderson before we started the "Process" It was banging pretty hard.

When the Sig BDX system was first introduced the sight over bore was set to 1.7", could not be changed without a Kestrel. Having one of their first pieces of the BDX technology I was on the phone with Sig quite a bit, and every time I bugged them about it. Later versions scope height is unlocked. FWIW, never had problems with their equipment, all the calls were related to pairing, un-pairing, bonding, etc with android devices. Anyway, subject at hand, for hunting in my area, a 200 yard zero works for the 308 and the 338 quite well for me. I have my 25-45 set up at a 100 yard zero for now and checked at 200, dope right on, be out in the woods next weekend maybe get a chance to blast an unsuspecting critter.

I've looked at these before, seem like good pricing, have they held up over time?

No, my range only has 100 and 200 yard berms. I did compare the table results with the labradar and played with the bc in the strelok app to get the 0 to 100 velocities correct. After that its all math and Kentucky Windage. Here is the table broken down to 25 yard steps. Notice between 100 and 200 it tops out 1.7 inch high .

Vortex crossfire is not a bad scope, careful not to over tighten the caps, their tubes are not as sturdy as some and you can knock the glass loose. My 308 zero is 200 yards and that hits about 1-1/2 inch high at 100 yards. 8 inches low at 300. This table is based on 2.7" over bore, 150 gr bullet 2700 fps MV. Cantilever mounts on my ARs seem to be right around 2.7" center above bore, Aero, Burris, PA.

Pur.tungsten and others sell the 1.5 oz weights. A collar would add a little but change the spring compression

That is the kicker, isn't it. Not being there in person, the only difference between the 1st and 2nd is the position of the charging handle. Please verify: When you charge the first round, are you dropping the bolt with the bolt release or pulling the charging handle all the way back and dropping it. Second round, pulling the CH all the way back I assume. Something to try, in the interest of science, 4 things: 1.) First round will the forward assist move the BCG forward after chambering the round. 2.) Second round: lower the CH to the bolt catch, engage the bolt catch, lower the CH all the way down, drop bolt w/ BC 3.) Second round slowly lower the CH a little past the bolt catch before releasing it. 4.) First round "Rubber Band" it, pull the CH as far back as possible and let it drop fast from full back position. Maybe these checks will point us in a particular direction. Also, without the recoil spring,( but with buffer )how much space do you have between the bolt catch and the face of the bolt? #10 on the waterboarding thread. 10.) BCG Clearance at the ears and bolt stop AL

Cheap Chinese aluminum meets a Henry Ford spanner, what's not to like. And he had the balls to post the photo, make me wish I had taken pictures of all my fuk ups instead of just the cool stuff! What a thread that would be, probably run out of storage space on the server!

I don't think the upper could do that to headspace, only the barrel extension lugs, the bolt lugs, and the chamber. ARs headspace without the upper?

@Fmtreading Couple tools you may want to invest in. The No Mar blocks hold the upper very secure in a big vise, you can get plenty of torq on a upper with these in this flat configuration. Also hold the upper pinned in the vertical orientation for assembly and optics and such. Also barrel nut wrench from Spikes, 100 times stronger then the pot metal "armorer tool"

alignment: gas key should line up with alignment pin in barrel extension. With the bolt all the way seated will the key line up?

Yes, exactly what I'm running in my 12.5 in ar308. Better yet replace the entire tube, buffer, and spring with the Armalite 7-3/4" setup when back in stock.

@Fmtreading To eliminate the lower, Clean the chamber and extension really good and try charging the upper without the lower attached. Round will probably be sticky, probably need to mortar it out but shouldn't be too hard. (Mortar it onto something softer then concrete floor. Or use a rubber mallet on the charging handle, that works for me) f you had a go gauge that would be even better then a live round. We are trying here to determine how difficult it is for the bolt to rotate into and out of battery. New 308 chambers can be tight. Different ammo can make a big difference. A lot of rounds that are difficult to extract manually fire and eject just fine, especially in a new chamber. Hopefully you didn't damage the barrel extension with the reaction rod and all that torque. The scratches look like drag marks from the lugs on the barrel extension, wouldn't worry about them. Probably take some time, be safe and keep after it. PS after converting g to oz I think you are going to find out that buffer is way too light. need 5.4 oz 153 g

@billymaggYou know what I missed, first thing ALWAYS, 1 round in a magazine, insert magazine, charge and fire. If it doesn't lock back, no reason to go any further. @Fmtreading may have second round coming out part way and slamming back in. Slamming spent brass back in the chamber will make for a sticky situation. The photos he shows are live rounds, no fired cases.

Lock closed or open? Second round in chamber and fired?

Also, I recognize the handguard in the photo, ditch it, out of spec piece of junk. Rail to tight to the outside diameter of the guard to install any accessories that have to slide on from end. (Also, I recognize the barrel nut, and the broken wrench, been there, done that, got the tee shirt!) Use ant seize or MCARBO grease. If you want a budget handguard, one place I like is ar15handguard.com. Sam Pan is great on customer service and everything I've gotten there fits nicely. Luck.