Robocop1051

I get one or two emails a week saying "you still have items in your shopping cart"

I actually got to talk to the people who bought CProducts, now named CProducts Defense. They built a new 28rd mag, designed to fit in standard m4 pouches. Part of this new design included a new spring and anti-tilt follower. They state that the new spring and follower, when used in their standard 30 rnd body (7.62x39 Jmag), actually fit 35 rounds.

It's still technically a "work in progress". I grabbed a VLTOR CASV-M recently. The upper is still in parts. If I get the chance this week, I'll start installing the parts.

They're not. The legs have 180° of rotation, and can lock in several positions.

That's Kinessa Johnson. Former Army, currently a firearms instructor and works for VETPAW... Veterans Empowered to Protect African Wildlife

The next "upgrade" I'm thinking about is a HiperFire trigger. I think the extra hammer force will be a positive for igniting those extra thick soviet primers. The items that require the most attention when making a 7.62x39 build are: • Low pressure from all the ammo you're likely to buy. Much lower than the NATO round. There is good stuff out there, but let's be honest here... you are building this to shoot cheap Wolf/Tula ammo. The shorter the gas system the better. If it requires regulating, then maybe invest in an adj-GB later. • Don't kill your budget on a barrel. The cheapo surplus round is not a precision cartridge, so you'll never get the round to perform as well as the barrel. You'll end up burning up that expensive barrel using all that steel cased ammo. Honestly, if I'm shooting sub-6 MOA I'm happy. • Bolts... buy 3 for $50 ea or buy 1 for $125... this part is the Achilles heal of rifle. • case taper is SIGNIFICANT in comparison to the NATO round. Picking a magazine can be tricky. The *new* C-Products Defense "J-Mag" has my vote... unless you can find a lower that accepts AK mags. • the 7.62x39 surplus ammo has thick, recessed, primers. A heavier hammer and/or hammer spring will be a bonus. This is also why the "enhanced firing pin" is a huge bonus as well. • think dirty! The cheaper the ammo the dirtier it gets. NiB or Melonite are your friends for the more exposed parts. I used to suggest a (YHM) CMV chrome lined barrel, but a nitride bbl works too. My current build has a cheapo Melonite barrel and an Adams Arms piston kit. This was about as clean as I could make it.

Damn Shepp, you're on the mark. I do recommend MGI, based on personal use. I also recommend Cason Engineering, based on their vastly increasing popularity and reputation solely from their 7.62x39 bolt. Both bolts come with a 7.62x39 firing pin.

Make sure you get a 7.62x39 firing pin... it's slightly longer for those pesky soviet rounds.

I've made a handful of these. I even have most of one on my desk now... no bolt yet... not till I complete a pistol lower. YHM makes a great barrel. It's affordable and 2 MOA. One of the tricks is to stay with carbine gas. PWS makes great muzzle devices. I used their FSC30 on my last build. I have a Krink style for my current build.

Yes, I have AR10A parts in my SI-D

I just lol'd Armalite (especially the AR10A) makes a superior LPK. The AR10A mag catch and bolt release are bulkier than other models. If you buy CMMG (and you're still flimsy about building, or inexperienced) you WILL have issues. Every time I repair an AR with "issues" my time is usually spent fitting CMMG parts or just flat out replacing them.

No Wash... He wants to cut the barrel to 14.5"

I got bit by a fuckin tick that day, jet lagged, pissed from sleeping in the chair at an airport... I'm actually surprised I Woke up! The boys were beating me while I crashed.

The gas block in the link on the OP was a clamp on. I misunderstood. Glad it all worked out

I had to do this with all my PRI gas blocks.

you guys are putting way too much thought into this. It's a lot simpler than you think. Back the screws out completely. Put a penny or a dime in the gap on the gas block. Reinstall the screws, into the coin. As you tighten the screw into the coin, the gb will expand. Slide it on,remove the coin.

Well... there you have it. If you need to talk to someone in LE about using a semi auto for a sniper rifle, we started using 16" LaRue OBR's in our State. I can get you in touch with a local SWAT/Sniper Sgt who made that change. For what it's worth.... LaRue expedites your build if you fly to TX and pick it up. You actually get to build the rifle in their shop, to your snipers spec's. Their tolerances are so tight on their sniper builds, that you have to bring the exact ammo you plan on working with so they can hand fit the the bolt and headspace. Despite what some of the nay sayers might chime in with... 16" is plenty for LE Sniper work. If you can't shoot sub-1/2"MOA with a LaRue... it's not the rifles fault.

I'm shopping on Southwest Airlines now... I'm holding you to that beer! No domestic stuff either. I'm making you buy that designer German shiit, that I can't pronounce the name of.

I'm not above trying on at the store and ordering online....

Wait a minute!!!! Wtf are you pointing at me? Was it something I said? ? ? Lol

I know they're made in China, but free is always nice. Enter here to win four pairs of Salomon boots. http://virl.io/CxsuasgQ

BOONDOCKS SAINTS MARATHON! !!

Who did you order from?

Lol They're all yuppie REI brands now.

Lol. There's nothing "cost effective" about a LaRue. The fact is, time and time again, stainless barrels prove to be more accurate barrels CONSISTENTLY.