Robocop1051

I have the PWS FSC30 on a 7.62x39 build. I need to spend more time shooting it instead of adding more crap to it. Definitely aggressive looking! It's one hell of a comp too. I'd say it was damn close to my BattleComps. I have two BC v1.5's and two BABC's. The BABC on my 300Blk is probably the most comparable. The BC does a better job, but that could partially be due to the better cartridge. I've never shot a BC and a PWS with the same cartridge. Totally worth the money! If a BC price tag scares you, the PWS is an affordable alternative. I bought the FSC30 for $99

My guestimate; The market will be back to normal by June 1st. Expect to see that set for $500-$600 by mid summer.

I'm enroute to find a copy ASAP.

Now that is funny right there!

You MF'r!!! I just had a baby. That TREX model has my name all over it!!! How do I explain that expense?

First off, Armalite has nothing but a stellar reputation here. If you feel you were snubbed in any way, perhaps it's because the guy who answered the phone was perplexed at how you produced your question. It's best to recognize the venue for your rant, even as mild as it was, before you spew it. AR barrels most commonly come in four diameters, measured at the gas block. They are .625, .750, .875 and .936 You don't need a micrometer for that. You need 8th grade math and a ruler. .625 = 5/8" .750 = 3/4" .875 = 7/8" .936 = Damn near 1" (actually 117/125, but who cares?) Since it's a .308, you can rule out the first measurement (since the threads would be the same size as the gas block). The other three are both very easy to measure and pretty damned obvious... Especially since they are all practically 1/8" increments. Since you mentioned you specifically wanted the YHM thread protector, it gets even easier from there. YHM only sells two sizes that are threaded 5/8"x24. They are .720 and .920. You mentioned that you had the Armalite AR-10 Super SASS. To the best of my knowledge that has a .875 adjustable gas block. I've looked at a lot of Super SASS barrels and I see that there is a small step down and then very little, to zero, taper to the muzzle. I'd guess it doesn't drop anywhere near to the .750-.720 range. That being said, it is still much smaller than the .920 alternative. At the risk of sounding like a dick myself, I think it's pretty selfish for you to put down a company, that isn't present to defend itself, especially on a public forum. I can't believe Google/Bing/Yahoo/Jeeves turned up nothing for you, but I'll bet you found "Two Girls One Cup" without having to break a sweat. Edit: Damnit Tom, you got it out while I was typing!

Ok Humbolt, I'm going to try to make sense of this. I think what you are looking for would be best shown as the JP/VTAC or the APEX Machine 15" free float tube, with a JP short range tactical sight mounted to the tube at the desired angle. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/rear-sights/ar-15-short-range-tactical-sight-prod20658.aspx This will put your sights on the same plane. If you do it right, i'll bet the sights could come back and overlap the receiver a bit without interfering with shell extraction.

@jrtmasp; If you can give it 2-3 days, that should be plenty. I had about two weeks in between shoots, so I tied a string around the BCG and dropped the whole thing inside the oil bottle. Longer is always better than shorter, but no one is exactly sure how long that is. I don't see any harm with doing it more than once. It won't get soggy, so don't worry about leaving it in too long.

It's here! It's here! Oh baby, it's sooo pretty!

That's one hell of a guarantee.

Matched sets are really only nice when they are designed to be a set. There are plenty of manufacturers that make a standard standalone product, designed to be mated to a different upper at another time. If you like custom lines, and cosmetics are important to you, (imho) matched sets are the best looking rigs out there. I personally own two matched sets, one small frame and one large frame. I especially love that matched sets take away the "Franken-gun" look.

Nice rifle! I love those Apex handguards too. That looks like the makings of one hellofa shooter!

I believe KAC has a new rail comin soon. They talked about it briefly at shot.

Welcome from NorCal.

I believe Armalite did license a lower for California. I forget if it was made by TM or AeroPrecision, or someone else. They were selling them on their site as "CA legal AR-10's" They were legal since they were made and labeled by an outside company. Although they were built with Armalite parts and Armalite QC.

Nightforce just called me. My new NXS 2.5-10x32 (LV) is in the mail.

While you're at it. Grab yourself an AR-10A magazine catch too. Also a much beefier part, designed for the heavier format rifle.

You should put your barrel nut on and off 2 or 3 times before you really lock it down. The metal needs to stretch like a pair of jeans. It's also ok to hit the threads with anti-seizing goop before final install.

While I'll drink (and enjoy!) damn near anything, the Coors Silver Bullet is my go to, long time, friend. He waits for me to come home from work. Goes fishing with me, loves going hunting an camping, goes well with every meal, and is social enough for when the in-laws are over. I took a 30pk on an off road trip with my wife, back when we were first dating. I figured it would last me the entire trip. The little lady and I polished off all 30 the first night, acting like wild animals in the middle of the NV desert. The money I save by drinking Coors, is quickly spent on my affliction with expensive scotch. Johnny Walker, Glen Fiddich, Glen Livet... 18yrs or better!! I save a bottle of Black Label when my grubby friends come over and think they can handle scotch. There's always a faithful bottle of Jack around too. Although I find myself cooking with it more than drinking it lately.

Soaking wet is exactly as it sounds. Many of us (myself included) start by soaking the BCG in full synthetic motor oil. I use Mobil1 5w50. Synthetic molecules are smaller than stanard, and will permeate deeper into the metal. When youre ready to shoot, just wipe it with a paper towel and install like regular. When at the range put a heavy dose of your preferred lube all over the BCG, inside the upper receiver, across the trigger assembly, and it even helps to put a little inside the buffer assembly. Check out "Frog Lube". The guys here will comment by saying "dripping". There will be a little bit of splashing involved after each shot. Don't be shy about adding more oil/lube as you shoot. The reason: You built a gun with parts that were never meant to be put together. That doesn't mean they won't work. It just means you'll have to put a little elbow grease into it. Keeping the rifle "soaking wet" will help the metal parts mate to eachother as you fire the rifle. The repeated motions will wear the parts till they reach a harmonious working relationship.

+1 on the Gator Grip! I love mine. They take color really well too!

Those eastern block thugs are no joke. Anyone remember Oleg Taktarov? I swear that guy kills kittens for breakfast.

This can be a symptom of a new build (rough surfaces), an over gassed gun (cyclic rate faster than the catch can operate) or an under gassed gun (BCG doesn't get enough force to reach the catch). They are listed in their level of likelihood. If your rifle is well broken in and you have gone past the "run it soaking wet" phase... Try a heavier buffer or an adjustable gas block. If you are under gassed (rare) you might need to clean up your gas system. Check your gas block hole for obstructions. Run a pipe cleaner through the gas block and gas tube. Hit the BCG and chamber with some of that "FireClean". Those three fixes should cover a majority of the issues you get with the 308AR

If you are using a rifle length buffer tube, you can use a small strap wrench to get tight, but it isn't necessary since the fixed stocks lock the tube into place. If you're using a carbine length tube, the castle nut should be used to tighten the tube down.

It's very common for lowers to be marked "multi" now. There is no difference between a multi and a standard marked lower. The main different types of lowers are: • Standard billet/forged AR-15 • Billet/Forged Armalite style lower • Billet/Forged DPMS/KAC Style lower • Billet/Forged G3 style lower • Pistol caliber dedicated lower (uses pistol/smg style magazines) • 22lr dedicated lower - doesn't usually accept standard AR-15 parts, uses 22lr specific mags