Robocop1051

He's one of us! So chances are he's a little of both! <thumbsup>

Let me try to answer this in order; -No. -Probably, but the muzzle device you choose can assist in this. -A 168gr should remain supersonic to 600 meters in a 16" barrel. The rifle will get the bullet out there, hitting anything will depend on you. I'm pretty sure Survivalshop and Jgun both have 16" .308's

Welcome Mike! Central valley guy lookin for a .260, tells me the coyotes are taunting you. <thumbsup> I'm from Sacto. Looking foreword to your build.

http://blackriflearms.com/

I really like how remarkably light the R25 is in comparison to similar builds. It's too bad they don't consider A-TACS a hunting camo.

I would really like to hear your view of the BATFE finding. Perhaps I got turned around in all the legal jargon and missed something. I'm not above admitting fault if it's there. As for the ARF thread... Ugh! That thread is a prime example of why I DON'T go there anymore. 10% info, 90% BS and whining. I realize that there is only about a dozen active members on 308ar at a time, but I love this place! It's like hanging at the local bar for me... And I'm sober now, so I need this place <laughs>

<laughs> I think it's more directed at the guy with the AR rifle lower and the SBR upper being transported in the same gun case. No more loopholing through the law saying it is legal because they aren't assembled.

I see now. I don't know how, but I conveniently missed the part about 20+ years of DRY tumbling. While reading about the SS media, and due in part to my inexperience, I just assumed all tumbling was wet. It stands to reason that a dry tumbler would accumulate more residue. Prior to this I had no (ZERO) knowledge about tumblers. I honestly thought you only used those vibrating tubs of crushed walnuts that looks like you brass is trapped in perpetual quick sand. I'd heard of ultrasonic baths, but mostly for large scale work not brass cleaning. I learn more and more from you guys every day. My short study of reloading has definitely sparked an interest that may need exploring in the near future.

If your AR is registered as a rifle you can not change it to a pistol. If your AR is registered as a pistol you can change it to a full size rifle. You may not change it to a short barrel rifle. You may change that rifle back into a pistol at any time. Further. Just having the parts in close proximity, with no other use, is no longer allowed. So no building a SBR upper and keeping it in the safe in case the zombies attack.

You're breaking man code here. How can you tease us with posts about your rifle without pictures? Did I miss a picture thread else where??

So after making my last post I spent a LENGTHY amount of time (wife is sick, so I have free time) watching videos on stainless media and reading about people's experience using the same. Most of my reading came from THR and SnipersHide.com None of the videos I watched showed the "black" cases or water, and they were demonstrating on "old range ammo". The recommended soap measurement was 2 tbs of liquid dish soap and 1 tsp of powder "lemishine" (?SP?). THR and SnipersHide comment that it could be carbon from the shells/tumbler. I'm sticking to my guns here and saying that it is the new stainless media. Stored and tarnished before shipped out. After a few uses it will probably get cleaner and cleaner. A more aggressive cleaner might work too, but I don't know how well a tumbler would stand up to something like concentrated simple green??? I also read a lot about the "shot peened" look of the brass. Some theorize that brass cleaned with stainless media actually strengthens the brass by making the case metal more dense??? The theory is strong based on how many parts we see hammered now, from barrels to bolt carriers. I'd like to know if that equates to more uses from a casing? Or is it simply a cosmetic bonus?

First my disclaimer. I know nothing about reloading or reloading equipment. I have no idea what a "stainless steel media" is. All I remember as a kid is watching brass casings vibrate/roll in crushed whatever, for hours. Then the old man mysteriously had more ammo for me to waste. What I do know a little about it metal. Stainless steel still has a tarnish. That tarnish comes off black. Usually the bet cleaner Ive found is WD-40. I clean my stainless topped work bench about once a year (maybe longer). Even though is appears to be clean, the black always comes off on the towel. You can usually usually test the cleanliness of stainless by rubbing it on a white piece of paper. No dishsoap compared to what WD40 could do. I don't know if this helps with your ss media.

Ooooh, I got my signals all mixed up. @98Z5V: that's the rifle I was talking about! I think that rifle is sexier than sin. I always liked JP's, but the heavy barrel turned me off. When I saw the RSASS I thought that was going to be a standard for Remington. Didn't realize they were keeping the dpms version. The RSASS looks like a perfect hybrid between the Remington and JP rifles.

If I'm correct, Remington now builds their AR's with JP Rifles. JP's are known for being one of the hottest off the shelf rifles. My only gripe is, at $3k you better like everything about the weapon when you buy it. Hard to replace parts after you already spent so much. You can build your own rifle cheaper... But $1400 won't put you in the same level as a R25. $600 for a receiver set $300 for a BCG $350 for a barrel $200 for a trigger $300 for the stock/buffer assembly $150 for misc lower/upper parts $250 for a free float hand guard $150 for a comp/break/flash hider That's $2300 there and some of those prices were conservative. That price doesn't include mags, sights, or optics. Sure you could make it cheaper, but you wouldn't be on par with an off the shelf R25. I played with an R25 and I was pleasantly surprised with how lightweight they are. The light contour of the barrel cuts weight, but doesn't help with killing paper all day. R25's are designed for the hunters in our group.

This just came in on 08/04/2011 from Josh Sonju at S.I. Defense I ordered the upper/lower receiver set and the BCG on 04/01/2011. I picked up my receiver set (BEAUTIFUL!!!) on the last week of May. It took roughly 7-8 weeks, but well worth the wait. For over four months, I have been patiently sitting idle waiting on the BCG to hit the market. If the Young Mfg BCG hits the market first, I'd be hard pressed to wait any longer. The biggest contributer to my patience is knowing that my Carbon Fiber barrel isn't finished yet either... Jgun can relate to that wait.

Survivalshop is right (as usual) about this. I built my rifle specifically to use the Magpul LR-20 mags, but I won't own a rifle that I can't hunt with. That's where the 5-rounders comes in. I much prefer hauling the lightest weight possible rifle when humping through the forrest. Also be aware that certain states have regulations about how many rounds you can have in your rifle when hunting. The biggest 'sux' part of the 5 rounder is that you can buy a LR-20 mag for about $20, and the 5's cost $40+. As for choices of mags. I prefer the 20's for my work (LE). I like the 20's in my 5.56 because they stack better, they get me closer to the ground when prone, and it's simply easier to count and remember 20 rounds. Having 20 rounds of 308, will be a very easy transition for me. 30's are great for FA shooters and guys at war, but I don't fit in either of those catagories.

I'm very jealous right now...

Thanks guys... I decided to make a $150 gamble. If I can't do what I'm planning, then I'll go with the Geiselle. I looked at my CMC trigger and I figured out how to disassemble the module. Pop a few screws, and a little time with a sanding/honing stone... I think I will be able to get my trigger to fit. What's the worst that can happen? I'm out a trigger??? I needed a new one anyways. I knew this was going to be custom work when I started. No point in cutting corners now. Hope to have good news for you all by this weekend.

Has anyone used one, or heard of one used, in a 308? Ever since my CMC failed to fit, I'm torn on which trigger to get. The Geiselle SSA (or the more expensive Hi-Speed DMR) looks good, but I really like the flat trigger on the SD series.

JP rifles have the left side charging handle. Beautiful design! Kaiser Mil Tech (are they still around?) made a forward mounted left hand charging handle. Very sexy!! Both of these designs are independent charging handles... Meaning that when the bolt cycles back and forth, the charging handle does not move. Parts moving on the external surface of a rifle can cause a lot of pain to a misplaced finger.

Hey no skin off my back. I have two pairs of the tan standard versions. They work great. I think i got them shipped for $45 through Oakley's LE/Mil store. My only gripe is that they don't hold up as well as I needed, thus my reasoning for buying the new version. @JawbrkrCTC01; These are the "flame resistant" versions. Double check that store. I wasn't aware that the "FR" version was available in tan yet. If the "FR" versions are the price you say, put me in for a pair of mediums.

If you shoot from a line, like at a public range, don't shoot next to anyone you like... And double up on ear protection, foamies and muffs. Muzzle brakes are great for reduced felt recoil, but damn are they loud!

Dpms can be tricky to match rails. Im not 100% familiar with off the shelf models. I do know that if you have a pre-2009 or a post-2009 model, can determine if the rails will match up correctly. As for which free float you want... That is all up to your wallet. You can get a MI handguard for $100, and always wish for something better. Or you can buy a SWS/DD/or similar for +$400, and realize you have done the same with a cheaper version.

Silly rabbit, you're still using the A2 birdcage flash hider. Go find a reputable brake or comp. A JP brake or a BABC comp would make a world of difference. There are a lot of other (less expensive) options available also. The bird cage does nothing to help the average shooter. I'm sure you already know this, but for the readers who don't... If you shoot with your bipod on a table (or similar hard surface) you are going to bounce. Bipods work best when shooting on the ground. If you want to table shoot, simulate the ground under the bipod by folding a towel or a jacket under the feet. A strip of memory foam would be awesome.

That's funny. I'm painting all my black stuff OD green. It all started with an OD MIAD. Just got my LR20 PMAGs DuraCoated too.