98Z5V

Rob, I think I can get it down to right around 18", in transport-mode. It would definitely be less without a pig, and just the A2 fh on there. Possibly 17" in transport-mode. My "surprise parts" are supposed to ship tomorrow, so we'll know in a couple more days. <thumbsup>

I tried to post some kind of refute or counter to that specific "review" but I was stuck - that seems like a Brownell's problem, in the basics. I'm a "Verified Reviewer" on their site, yet I can't add my own comments to someone else's review. In my very humble opinion, if I'm one of their "Verified Reviewers," then I should have the credibility to comment on some other comments in customer reviews. I will definitely contact them about this, as far as their "review process" is, as now. Me no likey. :(

Did you have the same extraction issues with the brass-cased Hornady? If not, there might not really be a chamber-dimension problem here. If those extraction issues were minor with the Hornady, compared to some major issues with the steel-cased, then the extractor o-ring thing might work wonders - it's it's not already o-ringed on your rifle. <thumbsup>

I think I suck at advice, brother - I really don't think there's a "voice of reason" setting on me, anywhere... <laughs> I'll help you get into a SWEET rifle, though! <thumbsup> <lmao> Man, since you've posted that, i've been thinking of grabbing one, and I don't even like buying an upper someone else built. :cookoo: That's a damn nice upper... Sidenote - if you snatch that thing, we need to get together, 'cause I wanna shoot it... :happydrunks:

Tight chamber, sounds like - which is not uncommon in a DPMS .308. Which is what the BM is. With brass, if it's giving you issues, have a gunsmith look at the chamber dimensions, and possibly ream it to spec. <thumbsup> Bet that thing will shoot better after that.

5.56 A2 spring? Don't do that...

Hey, brother, don't thank me - the info should be out there, somewhere. If you've been attacked or berated for your questions before... then the people suck. <laughs> There are a few people here that have had custom barrels ordered, bought, waited, etc - and those barrels are nice. I'm not saying you can "replace" a custom barrel from a reputable barrel maker with somthing of lesser quality, and "fix" it yourself - by NO means am I saying that... :o Bottom line is this - if you can live with a non-custom barrel, but one from somebody that's "doing most of it" in their manufacture, then you can turn that barrel into one damn great shooter. I have three barrels from Wilson Arms (not "Wilson Combat," by the way - two completely different companies). Now, Wilson Arms makes a damn fine barrel. The three that I have are: 16" .223 Wylde chambered 1:8 twist barrel from Nordic Components - great. 18" .223 Wylde chambered 1:8 twist barrel from Nordic Components - great. (Seeing a trend here... ;D). 20" .223 Wylde chambered 1:8 twist barrel from Rock River Arms - great. All those barrels are stainless barrels, too. Now, all of them were treated to some Tubb Final Finish Ammo (kits, packages, whatever - great stuff). I didn't contact the manufacturers about whether they final finished the barrels for match accuracy - based on their price points. I had the Tubb FF ammo on hand already, and suspected the barrels weren't done in that manner, and just shot the Tubb FF Ammo. Definitely didn't hurt them, in ANY manner. <thumbsup> If you buy a true match barrel, pay the money for it, wait the time for it, etc., then you will have a badass barrel right out of the blocks. You can still get some damn fine barrels, do a little work with them, and wind up with some phenomenal shooters.

That's not messed up brass - it looks great. You don't have extractor marks on that like you have on the steel-cased. You have ejector marks, but you're always gonna have that - your ejector marks look damn good. You need to stop shooting that steel-cased Monarch through your rifle, if it's causing problems for you. One question, here - did the brass cased Hornady SST 150 give you any issues with feeding, extracting, ejecting?... The brass you've pictured show no signs of that.

Wow - no way to counter. I simply voted "NO, this review wasn't helpful." What a dumbass "gunsmith," from the apparent "my customer" comments.

I will definitely check that out, Roger... Going now...

I nailed the multi-part... :o <laughs> EDIT - had to make a typo correction - didn't "nail it..." :'(

Wow - multi-part question(s) here... Let's see if I can get this edit right, without fucking it up. <laughs> Cold-bore shot here on the answer, and if it comes out right... <lmao> That is the exact reason why I stated "contact Rainier Arms, and find out if it's final finish lapped." Custom barrel makers do that service for you, and you can mount their barrel right out of the box, and expect "match accuracy." I'm a BIG fan of Rainier Arms, and I'm not doubting them in the least with their match barrels - I just haven't bought one, and have never asked them these questions, myself. I've bought other match barrels, asked those questions, and decided my own course of action with them, though. Money. It's that simple. Producing a real match barrel involves alot of steps (including final finish lapping, so the barrel is truly "ready to go" as soon as you mount it, and more importantly,... it takes time. That's why custom barrels are almost never a "add to cart" item. There's real work involved, from people that are proficient in making "accurate" barrels, and that takes time. Time equals money, and badass barrels that shoot right out of the box are never "cheap." It takes alot of machining, working, finishing, to make a barrel that repeatably "dead nuts accurate" out of the box, from a manufacturer. That is the exact reason as to the "Why is this so expensive?..." when you're buying a barrel. There are alot of barrels out there that claim certain accuracies, but are mass-produced. You can't mass-produce a true "match barrel." A true match barrel is almost exclusively hand-produced. There are alot of barrel manufacturers that can produce a quality barrel, that's almost "match" in quality, but with it being mass-produced, some corners must be cut. Hence, the whole reason for my suggestion of calling them, and finding out what they do. You will NEVER find a true match barrel that is cheap.

Got that part, brother - we were probably posting/as I was editing, at the same time. Need to see those same pics of what it's doing to the brass-cased ammo. Leave the gas block alone, with the brass-cased, or you're completely changing what's going on - it might not have anything to do with gas pressure, here. If you change that gas pressure, then any answers you might get here - are starting from ground zero. Make sense? Shoot some brass, exactly as the rifle/gas is, with what it did to the steel cased stuff. <thumbsup>

First - steel cased. What are you shooting? Need some pics of the same kind of failure on brass-cased ammo, and if it does the same thing. If it does the exact same thing, then your extractor doesn't have anough tension, and you need to o-ring/d-ring the extractor spring. Really need to know what that ammo is... Didn't know Hornady SST 150 was steel. EDIT - I get it, that's the Monarch steel cased. Put up a pic of the Hornady SST 150s...

JON!!! ;D How did the Saturday Shoot go, brother?!!? I love me some Appleseed. <thumbsup> I HATE that I couldn't be there this weekend... >:(

I would use that in a heartbeat to install a rail system or barrel nut - I've made my own like that before. If you use it to take off a rail or barrel nut, you run the risk of breaking the upper receiver at the front of the ejection port, from it's opening, straight down to the bottom of the upper - CRACK! Ask me how I know... :o Maybe this design is better than my own stuff, but very early on, when building, I made my own that were much like this. As soon as I removed a barrel nut and trashed an upper, I bought a set of clam-shells to hold the uppers. Again, I'd use this all day long to build them... <thumbsup>

Yes, it does. <thumbsup>

Welcome back, Tango! You've been gone for awhile, man... <thumbsup> I've shot the M118LR, and a reload of it (from "Mac's Reloads" - very good stuff), and it's a damn good round through a 1:10 twist Fulton Criterion 18.5" stainless barrel. <thumbsup>

Hey, Rob!!! ;D I fixed that 7.5 w/ PIG for ya, brother! <thumbsup> There's ONE more thing to add to both these pistols, and they're complete - that part is a surprise, and it should ship on Monday the 15th... I hope it does... :o

Please take a pic of that and post it - if it's what I think it is, I probably have a solution for you. <thumbsup>

Contact Rainier - seriously. If their barrel has been final finish lapped, before shipping, then there's nothing really to "break in." It's already "perfect" from the barrel maker. If it hasn't been final finish lapped, then the Tubb Final Finish Ammo will speed that process up - that's what it's designed for, primarily. <thumbsup>

^^^ I'm with him, ss... ;D :wwop:

blue, Stag makes a good rifle, and from what I've heard, that one's a great shooter. I don't think you can go wrong with it. The only other thing that I'd want on it, that it doesn't have, is a .223 Wylde chamber. That 5.56 NATO chamber it's got will be fine, though. At $699, I see no reason not to get it, brother. <thumbsup> That's a screamin' deal on that. EDIT - Just re-read your thread title - I'm supposed to try to talk you out of this upper... Sorry, man, can't do that... <laughs> <lmao>

There;s definitely something up with that spring you have - it certainly shouldn't take that much force to release the bolt.

You might get to see pics of a Kalifornia LEO getting arrested in Arizona... <dontknow> <laughs> <lmao> Who the hell knows what's gonna happen... :o