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That helps, greatly - get rid of that thing, completely. For your Armalite AR-10 lower, just do it right. GO with the Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extension kit that was recommended before. It's out of stock at Armalite - but call them on the phone, on their contact numbers, and talk to a human there. That will yield you better results, than waiting for it to show as "in stock." Trust me on that. Call them. Where did you get the recoil system that you have on there now? Nobody should ever buy what you bought, ever again. Out that company, for everyone's benefit in the future.

That doesn't make any sense - please post pics of what's inside your buffer.

That Stag spring is excessively stiff. I've seen them at the gun shop, tested them on the range, and had to change them out - for my gun dealer working on a customer's gun. Just get the Armalite kit, or do what I said before. Rebuild the buffer from the part I listed from DSG Arms, and use a Sprinco Orange Spring. If you do this, the internal depth of your receiver extension needs to be 7.000" INTERNAL. Overall length on a receiver extension doesn't mean a hill of beans. INTERNAL DEPTH of the receiver extension is what matters. How deep is that extension? That's all that counts.

@edteach, you can buy this buffer for $22 from DSG Arms. It's stainless steel body and 2 steel weights inside, and it weighs 3.8oz. You can get that for $22, take it apart, take your buffer that you have apart, and put YOUR tungsten weights inside this DSG stainless buffer body, and hit 5.3oz. That's close enough. I've done it, tried it, and it works, and it's running inside my .260 Rem gun right now, and won't be coming out. This is the cheapest way you can solve this issue. You WILL NEED a Sprinco Orange spring for a recoil spring, with this setup. Nothing else will work. They run around $20. https://dsgarms.com/lower-receiver-parts-dsg-4201-0021

@edteach, there's a very specific reason that Armalite uses 3.250" buffers that are 5.4oz, in carbine receiver extensions that are 7 5/8" internal depth, with their EA1095 recoil spring. In ALL their factory AR-10 Carbine Recoil System guns. Because it works, and doesn't fail, and doesn't compromise any other part of the gas system. Read this, when you have the time:

Any powder that works for .30 Carbine, works great for .300 Blackout.

VICTORY!!! Well done, brother. That thing is SAH-WEET!!!

No it's not. The heaviest you can make a 2.500" buffer with an aluminum body is 3.8oz, and that's with 2 tungsten weights inside it (because that's all that fit inside there). It's a 3.8oz buffer. The only way to make a 2.500" buffer heavier, is by changing the material the body is made of. Stainless steel bodies with 2 tungsten weights will get it to 5.3oz~5.6oz. Depends on how thick the rim is. You'll be getting rid of that 3.8oz buffer, because it's not going to work properly. You'll also need to check the length of your gas tube, and your gas port diameter.

As long as your upper body is squared up on the target, that's good. You can take a hit from any direction, and still maintain footing. If your feet are directly beside each other, you can take a hit from the side, but you're going down with a hit from front or rear. You know the deal.

The paint pen marks on the center of my backplates will make sense, once you watch that video up there... ^^^

It's a good one. There's alot of good content on that channel, especially with the combination of Glover and DJ now. Check this one (two parts). I didn't realize it, but I've been training pistol like this for a long, long time. I used the Bill Wilson 5x5 Drill for a long time, as a training standard. I've changed it now to 6 in 5 because of this specifically.

It wouldn't be worth it then. 8 is a hard call, but you still have 1.5 times that to go yet.

MAPP is over-rated - too high of heat in a concentrated location. I used this method, for best results...

Boring - and working - are good things.

You'll need more than that. Don't even start with it, don't waste your time. Or, do what you want. We'll be here...

Damn - why did you sell that one?!!?

Damn, that thing is sweet.

You always crimp semi-auto rounds. Any round that's gonna go through a semi-auto. Setting neck tension - that's bolt gun shiit, and not meant for semi's. Crimp. The recommendation of the Lee Factory Crimp Die is the best recommendation you'll ever get - there's nothing better. You're hand-cycling these, and finding the length 0.001" longer. Wait until you start firing, loaded like that, and the rest of the rounds in the mag suffer from bullet setback - and that increases the pressure on each cartridge...

@Black_Sheep, that's a very solid build list, man. Very well done.

She hitting 20, or getting out before? If she's close, I'd highly recommend sucking it up until then. It's worth it.

I'll check your ammo stock and report back. You DO NEED some ammo, I'll just open with that...

Despite what these instigators say - and what I've said - I'm not baking a magnified optic, brother. Have no fear. Not even a flash, quickly.

Indeed. I need to tame this fukkin' thing.

Ooooh, damn - she's gonna find this... The bolt, man, the bolt. I beat the fuk out of it, and that broken punch isn't moving yet. Heat is next.

It'll need rounds through it, and it'll need to break in. All these bigger parts need time to mate to each other, locking surfaces, bearing surfaces, etc. It's gonna need rounds downrange. I wouldn't sweat it too much, unless the thing isn't functioning when you pull the trigger on live rounds.