98Z5V

I don't fuk around, brother. Get after it. Like getting after Cindy.

I love a good plan...

The RCBS ChargeMaster Lite is the baddest scale out there right now, and blows away the ChargeMaster 1500, and the Hornady scale, by far. The only thing that can smoke it is that new RCBS "Precision" scale, that runs about $900. I don't need $900 of scale-drama in my life right now, or maybe ever... You won't be disappointed. If you are, I'll extend you my money-back guarantee, and buy it back from you, for all you had to pay for it, plus the shipping and tax that you had to incur to get it to you, plus the shipping to me. You won't be out a penny, brother. And I'll be running two of them...

Oh, I noticed it. I think you needs some fucking Warning Points. I'm just sayin'... Just BECAUSE...

This made me laugh - you remember that plywood and 2x4 doghouse that Anthony built, to cover that crazy-noisy generator that he had for his camper, when we went on dune trips?!

This makes me happy to read it - this place is 12+ years of development, experimentation, money-spent, trial-and-error, some failures... but knowledge gained, in order to be passed on, so others don't have to go through that. Welcome aboard - officially, now ^^^ That's not a bad thing, brother. When the electricity is off, I can still use my flashlight to look at the card catalog, and go through the library aisles and find the book in order in the Dewey Decimal System... We still train in reading wind, estimating range, running your dials and knowing your scope dope, and using math to solve your shooting solution, too. Just in case all the batteries die in all the fancy gadgets... Knowledge is power, and knowledge is confidence.

You'll see it when it happens, brother. Mine is off maybe 3 times in 100 drops, and it shows it low or high. It doesn't mean that you'll always hit 19.1gr, and what it says is +/- anything - just that once in awhile it might drop +/- from what you set it. When it drops high or low, it'll show you right there on the scale. You dump that one back in and run it again. Fine ball powder, it never misses. Extruded stick, in chunks, it might miss 3 in a hundred, so those get dumped and run again.

D, best thing I've ever done for my reloading was this, right here: RCBS ChargeMasterLite. Most accurate of the modern scales, and you can pull it for $230~$280, depending on which sale you catch at what time. It blows away the Hornady in the same price range, and the RCBS Chargemaster 1500 (it's bigger brother), based on reviews. Mine rarely fuks up, and it really is badass. Been running it for almost a year now. You could bump up to around $900, and pull that RCBS Match-Super Accurate thing that they have now, but to me, it's just not worth it. This is the one, brother...

I need an optic for this gun before Spring Shoot, so I'll raid something off another gun for that. I'm looking, right now, but I can't find anything that I like that will work on this gun. Swampfox Arrowhead 1~10 in mils is the most promising thing I can find right now, but I'm still looking. Whatever it is, it'll have to be a mil scope, and I'll figure out the dope for it.

Those are all first-formed brass, necked up from generic .308 Win brass, whatever-headstamp... I wanted to make 20, so I got 20 ready, and split 2 cases. Grabbed another 2, just to get my full mag of 20. I'll revisit those 2 that split, and see what their headstamp was. they really SPLIT when they went through the sizer die, with little pressure. It took 3 or 4 passes to get the rest necked up, but those 2 weak bastards didn't have hardly any pressure on them, and just split. Later story, on those 2. These 20 in the mag right now will look slightly different, after shooting, and fire-forming them to this chamber. After that, I'll know how much the shoulder needs bumped, for future reloading on this...

So, this gun has been done for almost a year now. I looked for ammo - stupid move, unreal prices... but it was available! Because... NOBODY shoots .358 Winchester... I got pissed a few weeks ago and just (finally found and bought) GOT the reloading dies. Nailed a Lee set, for $35, and that includes the Lee Factory Crimp Die - BONUS, and killer price, including that $15 crimp die. When Kimmy was having her neck surgery a month ago, they wheeled her away from me around 9:30am. She was going into pre-op, lasting 2+ hours, then they'd take her into surgery (3+ hours), then they'd get her into recovery (1+ hours), before I'd be able to get back to her... I had time to kill... So, I called @JBMatt... "Hey, Fuqr, I know you're either working hard, or hardly working, and I'm right around the corner from you, time to spare, WTF are you doing?!" Turns out he was between work runs, and was heading right up the highway from me to hit up Bruno's Shooters Supply... Deal, it's a date. We met at Bruno's, and lo and behold, they had some Hornady .358" 250gr SP-RP projectiles... I bought a box, and decided to get this thing running... That was a month ago, with Kimmy getting chopped up and bolted and welded that morning. 2 weeks ago was getting the dies on the way. This last Sunday was Kimmy over here at the house, and I taught her some reloading basics - with .358 Win. Now, we have our first 20 rounds to run through this gun, and finally make it get moving. I thought the .338 Fed was fat. This thing is FAT!...

1 of 2 things going on here, since you're using a rifle recoil system (complete). 1. That UTG rifle receiver extension is out of spec, because it doesn't come forward enough - even fully threaded into the lower receiver - to even GET to the buffer retainer pin. 2. That 80% lower is out of spec, and is too deep in the backend, and NOTHING will thread into that thing to capture that buffer retainer pin. It can only be those 2 things, nothing more. Start measuring, and comparing specs.

Should be a 6* angle, exactly. That's the spec for it.

Punch it up, with confidence.

For those that don't know... The Glock 45 is - IS - the 19X, just in black. It's the same damn gun. Just for informational purposes. You're bidding on a black 19X here, is exactly what you're doing. You can't go wrong with that gun.

For the money, and how long I've been doing this, and how much I've spent on a bunch of Harris bipods with specialized adaptors over the years... I'll always use a Magpul bipod. Nothing on the market can give you the cant and swing - and the durability - that the Magpul bipod can... unless you drop some major bucks on it. I found that out the hard way, over time.

I'll be happy when you shoot it and it works. Until then, my math is a mystery. You shooting it and it works - tells me my math works...

That's pretty damn cool. The traction that this place gets surprises me, but it shouldn't, really. We fix broken guns. That's just what we do here. I love seeing the sources that the recommendations come from. Helps me understand the reach that this forum really has.

^^^ For that above, @jtallen83 can back me up on this. 75th RGR Rgt RSOP. Raid SOP. Assault force assaults THROUGH the objective, all the way out the other side of the objective. If anything is moving or wiggling whilst assaulting through the objective, it gets shot again, and again, on the way through the objective. Once you move THROUGH the objective, you establish security, and you move the aid and litter teams back into the objective, to check all personnel. Every single body gets check for boobytraps, by a 2-man team, before you render any aid to anything still alive. The objective of a raid isn't leaving bad people alive - just getting the good ones out, unhurt.

This is EXACTLY what the Combat Pistol training plan is about. Shoot until there IS NO THREAT. Anymore. If it wiggles, it gets more, until it don't wiggle, no more. THAT is when the threat "isn't a threat anymore..."

This is the kicker, right here...

So, we're comparing the exact same hole in the barrel, as the .260 Rem and 6.5 Creedmoor both shoot .264" diameter projectiles. On my .260 Rem, 20" rifle gas, 0.750" journal diameter, the first barrel shipped with a 0.070" gas port diameter. It was too small, and had to be at 0.080" to run correctly. I found that out and fixed it. The second .260 barrel I got from them, identical dimensions, shipped with a 0.075"ish port. I drilled it to 0.080" before I put that upper together. So, on yours, two things changed, that affect proper gas port sizing, over what I have. Both are shooting .264" projectiles, but you're have a 0.875" journal, and a 22" barrel. When you go up in journal size, you go down in port diameter. It's almost 0.005" per journal change (there are 4 common sizes, 0.625", 0.750", 0.875" and 0.936"). The change here, from known, is up to 0.875" from 0.750" Take that 0.080" that works on mine, and drop 0.005" from it to make it work with your journal diameter. Somewhere around 0.075" solves that part. Next, dwell time. You and I have the same gas system, rifle gas. I have a 20" barrel, you have a 22" barrel. You have increased dwell time over what I have, because there's more barrel after the gas port, to affect dwell time. Every 2" of barrel, when dwell time goes up, gas port comes down. If dwell time went DOWN, gas port would go up. It's in 0.005" increments (roughly). Example - if I was moving to an identical barrel on my .260, but got rid of the 20" and went with an 18" instead - all other details remaining the same - I'd have to have a gas port up from the original 0.080", and need something around 0.085". So, on your barrel, we already know it needs to be around 0.075" just for the change in gas block journal size. It needs to go down another 0.005" for the 2" increase in dwell time. Bottom line: You will need a gas port diameter around 0.070" for that barrel config to run properly... Which is about what you have right now...

It's right here - you're right, it's gas port diameter. 18" rifle gas with a 0.750" journal size needs 0.093"~0.096" to run right. What you have now, at 0.086" is just barely on the high side to make an 18" midlength gas barrel run, with a 0.0750" journal. There's alot less dwell time over the midlength, using the rifle length, so you need more gas port diameter to make up for that.