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98Z5V

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Everything posted by 98Z5V

  1. But, you have been holding back - and pitching ideas that we now know are from YouTube. I've written about this so many times here, it's not even funny. Proven my points, time and time again. That's not on YouTube, but only here, so you must have missed it all. You've argued this thread the whole time, with nothing but speculation and bullshiit. Now, we know that's all from YouTube. If you STICK to proven designs... you'll find that the stupid questions, and arguments, quickly go away. When you pull the trigger, and the gun works - you'll see the difference. Until then - stay in fantasy-world, keep believing what you want, and keep eating the bullshiit that's out there. When you want to FIRE your gun, and really make it work - come back, and give details on what's NOT working. We'll fix it.
  2. I thought I stated that - had to go back and check, just to make sure. Yep. I stated that. Hope that "YouTube Research" works out for you. Your best resource for no-bullshiit information is RIGHT HERE. Make sure you tell YouTube that, too - let them all know...
  3. Well Holy Shiit! That comes down to MY proven theory that you need a certain amount of reciprocating mass! ENOUGH ASS TO CONTROL THE MASS!!! Guess I got that one right, yeah?...
  4. I like your style, brother...
  5. I'm completely not understanding what's on your notebook. Please explain.
  6. ^^^ Nailed it.
  7. Good luck. Take pictures.
  8. Oh, we can TOP that one, here in the US. We have a Secret Weapon on OUR side, for stupid gun regulation, and he wears a cape... His name is Kevin De Leon, from California. Here he is, in action...
  9. Answered, in your other thread.
  10. Shave the flat in the Forward Assist. That'll fix it. The threaded pin-portion is a larger diameter, where it threads. That's hitting the flat portion of the forward assist, where a roll would clear - then you need to clearance that flat on the forward assist. That's your bind. Simple fix. Get the Dremel and sanding wheel out, and fix the part that's causing the problem.
  11. You have this one? If you do, the answer is - nothing but Aero.
  12. 1. You just described the PERFECT Race Gun. One that is tailored for zero felt recoil and muzzle movement, to stay on target, and win matches, with one specific load that's only made up to meet a Power Factor threshold, and be accurate. 2. Shock absorber? That's your recoil spring. 3. Ti vs. standard BCG? Is the Ti BCG 4oz less? You'd need a buffer 4oz heavier, if you're building a reliable gun that shoot any load that you throw in it (besides subs). If you want to build a Race Gun, just do it. When it doesn't function, we'll figure out what went wrong. When you finally find ammo that runs through it - good luck switching loads. RaceGun away, though - build that thing. I build my Large Frame ARs to run on any load that I run through them, unsuppressed - and still run if I toss a buddy's suppressor on there. Weird, though. They all have the same recoil system designs. That would include an 18.5" .308 Win AR, a 16" .308 Win AR, a 13.5" .308 Win AR, a 12.5" .308 Win AR, a 16" .338 Fed AR, a 20" .260 Rem AR, another 18" .308 Win AR, and a 16" .358 Win AR. One of these days, I'll add an 18" 7mm-08 AR to the pile, and I'll run the same recoil system design, that I know works.
  13. Not in the least. I feel like I'm trying to explain something that you have zero interest in listening to, based on your knowledge that you have. I need to know where you stand, what you think you know, and the why on it all - just in order to have a conversation with you. You're blowing off everything that is given to you, and you rail off on some tangent about this and that - that don't matter. I want to know why it matters to you - and why you think it'll make a difference. I need to be on your level of what you understand, just to have a conversation with you about this shiit. That's all.
  14. Run with scissors HOD - have a blast.
  15. Please explain what you already understand then - spill it. I want to know what you know/understand. I need to see where you stand on this, and why, in order to work with what you know and understand.
  16. If you're reloading for a magazine fed semi-auto, you'll always reach max meg-length before you'll ever get to the lands in the barrel. Fact. Well, unless you have a cheap, shiit barrel that wasn't machined right - not a slam on you, just a fact of barrel manufacturing for these things. If you load to max mag length, and you're in the lands on a barrel - you need a different barrel, because that one wasn't made right. "Setback from the lands" that you stated ties directly into the videos that I posted, and why I posted them. Knowing where the lands are is smart, on bolt guns. Using the lands to determine your loaded length isn't smart - because the lands erode every time you pull the trigger and send a round down the barrel. "Off the lands" is the backwards way of doing it, and it fails you most of the time. Erik Cortina 'splains that well, in those two vids - with excellent info to back it up.
  17. Welcome aboard. Buy this barrel, and you'll never, ever look back. It's 18'5", but it's the best barrel you can get for decent money, for what you want to do. 2 of us here have this barrel, and we love it. At distance, it gets the job done. https://www.fulton-armory.com/barrelfatitan185nmmedss1x10936gasblock.aspx
  18. For semi-autos, I load to magazine length, or damn near it, and tailor the best load via powder charge. For bolt guns, here's a great video detailing loaded-length: Here's a great section,right here on this board, for you to read: https://forum.308ar.com/forum/34-reloading/
  19. For 150gr loads for .308 Winchester, I only use that for plinking ammo, and I only load Hornady 150gr FMJ-BT projectiles. They have a cannelure, so I seat them to the cannulure-at-the-case-mouth, and crimp them. I crimp everything I shoot with a Lee Factory Crimp Die - no matter what caliber I shoot, no matter if it's for a bolt gun or semi-auto.
  20. Since I trashed your buffer choice so bad, I figure I better explain a little. The buffer design is brilliant. Sprinco actually unveiled that design at SHOT SHOW 2 years ago. Then other companies jumped on the bandwagon, and pushed them to market. Odin's choice of labeling and naming that product is sheer stupidity on their part. But the design is smart. I do have one of those. The AR15 Heavy version. That one buffer lets me test out all my small-frame AR builds (minus the ones that I run with VLTOR A5 recoil systems), and it lets me test out all my large-frame AR builds - because I run carbine receiver extensions that are 7 5/8" internal depth. Armalite AR-10 Carbine receiver extensions, or VLTOR A5 receiver extensions, or MagPul SR-25/M110 Carbine receiver extensions. Carbine receiver extensions that are 7 5/8" internal depth allow you to run carbine buffers that are 3.250" long - AR15 carbine buffers. Run them at the H3 weight (5.4oz), and you won't ever have any issues, on a .308 Winchester shooting .308AR build. Back that up with an Armalite EA1095 recoil spring, and it's a solid system. You might find other problems with your gun, but you won't find any problems with your recoil system. Proof Of Life, I do have one, and I like it.
  21. The Battle Arms bolt catches are very nice, and I use them in everything I build - IF I can find them in stock when I'm building a gun. I haven't used the .308 version yet, but if theey state that it's compatible with Aero M5 sets (and they directly stated that), then I'll be picking up several of them, and putting them in my large-frame guns. They do it right, have no fear, or doubt the product. Your recoil system is gonna be a nightmare. Stating that up front. Don't even consider the spring that you listed. You state Aero M5 for the receiver extension - that's your choice, and it certainly wouldn't be on my list, due to the length. You're restricted to 2.500" long buffers, and specific springs, to make that work in a large-frame AR. Next, that buffer. Now, I'm not hating on Odin and their adjustable buffer - not at all. I'm hating on that short little 2.500" buffer that they LABEL as an "AR-10" buffer. That's complete bullshiit, and why this industry is such a total fucking mess. AR-10 Carbine buffers are 3.250" long - IF they are real AR-10 Carbine buffers. But no, Odin is pushing their product as an "AR-10" buffer, and it's a damn DPMS LR-308 carbine buffer, at 2.500" long. Wrong terminology, Odin - you guys fucked that one up, royally. If someone with a real no-shiit AR-10 Carbine buys that thing, it's gonna tear their gun up on the first round - beat the living shiit out of the lower receiver and the BCG. Dumbass move Odin. Now, their adjustable buffer is brilliant. How they marketed that short .308AR 2.500" buffer is idiotic. If you choose to go this route for your recoil system, and use that Aero receiver extension, be advised that more than one Aero M5 Carbine receiver extension has been made too long, internally. You want 7.000" internal depth. I personally have an Aero M5 Carbine receiver extension that measures 7.100" internal depth - and others here have reported that, too - and it took me a damn long time to figure out why my gun was running like shiit. Get something else for a Carbine receiver extension. If you insist on sticking with AR15 parts for a .308AR recoil system, and run 7.000" internal extensions, and 2.500" buffers, then run the Sprinco Orange recoil spring. Next, the gas tube. Don't buy a gas tube until you can get that Wilson Combat barrel IN YOUR HANDS and measure what you'll need for a gas tube. I have two WC barrels - and needed longer gas tubes, once I got the barrels in, and measured them. AR15 parts usually don't work well with Wilson Combat barrels, unless you're building a small-frame AR.
  22. If you're than hung up on the Armalite barrel that you have, just buy a complete Armalite AR-10 BCG, and run it (the combo) in your DPMS-based receivers.
  23. Nobody has ever been dumb enough to try it, so there isn't any "evidence" that you're going to find online. If someone did try it - we've never heard from them again. Have you found the thread that we have HERE on the measurements, and the differences between the two? I'll link it in here if you haven't seen it yet.
  24. Preachin' to the wrong guy about engine mods, too.
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