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If you're gonna shoot the the exact same hand-loaded brass from a bolt gun AND a semi-auto, or several semi-auto guns, then the Small Base dies are what you should be using. If you were only shooting the exact same brass, through the exact same bolt gun, ALL the time - then you could get away with just a standard sizing die, and just enough to bump the shoulder back, maybe 0.002" at most - and that gun would LOVE that brass. If you're mixing-and-matching a loaded cartridge between a few semis and bolt guns - then the Small Base die is the only true friend that you really have - and it's gonna size that brass down to fit into the most demanding chamber, no matter what the specs are, bolt-gun or AR semi - minimum case dimensions for the brass, but more for minimum case dimensions for the specs/drawings on that specific cartridge - Small Base dies bring that fired brass all the way down to the dimensions of the cartridge, in it's original form - unfired. All the other dies, that "say they're your friend..." - they'll just fuk you over. They like to talk like they can perform, like the hookers in the bar - but they can't do for you what the Small Base die can... She's your bitch, right there, if that's what you're doing... Sorry, brother - had to break it down in terms that made sense, so you could understand it...

If you have a 1:7" twist barrel, then the best factory loaded ammo you can get right now is the Hornady 6mm ARC Match ammo, with the 108gr ELD-M as the loaded projectile. That ammo is a winner, hands down. It's about "badass enough" that I hope my handloads can replicate it, and beat it. If my handloads can't beat it, then I'm screwed, royally. It's unreal ammo for 6 ARC. Right now. This is what everything else has to compete against, and I can personally say it's some pretty badass loaded ammo. I hope I can keep up with it...

Checking headspace with a barrel installed are exactly what headspace gauges do.... Mounted barrel, installed bolt - headspace gauges tell you if you're good, or not good. In-service weapons, and the Field gauge, are few and far between.. . What are you accomplishing here, with this device?...

Same to you, brother - YOU stay safe and healthy, and keep pumping them out. I'm a few weeks out on two more A5 H3 buffers from you, from what I've already seen, over the VLTOR A5 H2s... You have a superior product. You're forcing me to "reposition" some other VLTOR A5 H2 buffers that I already have...

This is the first issue. Why did they want the upper back?... Call Moriarti Arms, and see what's going on here. Ask for "Juliya" and see if she takes the call. This is who you're looking to talk to about your issue:

Get the garbage out of your gun - and I don't care who told you it wasthe "gold ticket" - get the junk parts out of your gun, build a gun with real, no-shiit reliable parts..... Then come in here and tell us what your failures are. We can identify bullshiit parts and junk parts real quick - and it usually hurts "feelings." Building a running gun doesn't have a single thing to do with "feelings", though. We don't care about your "feelings." You want a running gun? Don't get butt-hurt when we tell you that you have bulshiit parts in there, that don't work, and were sold to you on a whim, hypothesis, unproven theory, whatever... Just man up and fix your gun, so you have a running gun. That's the only thing we care about here...

Hydraulic buffers have hydraulics in them, which means they have seals, to seal in the hydraulics. And seals fail over time, and when they do, your gun fails. You have a catastrophic gun failure (it won't cycle after that buffer fails), and your gun won't function at all after that buffer fails. Hydraulic buffers are a stupid reason to build a gun, or build a recoil system - but it's smart from the manufacturer side of the house - when your shiit fails, in your gaming competition that you just took last place in, you have to go back to them, and get another... They just built in their own "if you want reliable, you NEED US!" standpoint. Bullshiit. This isn't about games, and high scores during a competition. This is about a reliable rifle. Period. Build whatever you want, but if you're not a Gamer, then don't build a Play Rifle - build a real rifle, that will work all the time, with whatever ammo you feed it. Hey, once you do that - go build your Gamer Gun to run competitions with, adjustable gas blocks, reduced-weight carriers, all that - and win money on the Gamer Circuit - you might get sponsors to cover parts. Around here, we give not one shiit about a Gamer Gun, High-Points Scores in Whatever Circuit that you're currently Gamer-winning... Just Ain't Care... Please reference 2:09 in this video... This is what you'll see... I've never seen a mechanical buffer fail. Ever. Have tried to kill several, have I failed at killing them. Even militarily, through a very, very high round-count for an individual weapon. There's a simple rule behind this - You Don't Complicate Shiit With Complicated Shiit... If you DO complicate shiit with complicated shiit (like hydraulic buffers), then you better know what the min and max is on the life of those things. And, expect complicated failures,that not many people can diagnose. We can diagnose them here - and do regularly, and laugh when they happen - and when it happens, you need to know - You did this to your self... There's no lifespan on a mechanical buffer - it'll last until you break the buffer bumper on the end of it. Because it's not complicated... Still never been able to break one, and I've tried.

^^^ That's a bad little bastard, right there - I'll vouch for it. I only have one, but I need another. It's worth every penny. I raided this off my 16" Grendel M4, to finish the 18" M16A4 - I need another another one to put back on the Grendel M4...

That had to be a painful one, brother - but possibly expected. H2s are bad. They're not H2Rs, but they're still supercharged liter bikes, "detuned for the street..." They're fuckin' SICK. Kawi requires dealers to put 20 miles on a streetbike before they sell it - part of the build and "Pre-Delivery Inspection" process. I worked at a Kawi dealer and we got one of the H2s. Someone bought it - YeeHaw!~~!~~~ Gotta prep it, and get 20 miles on it, boys!!! I got to turn about 4 miles on it, and we were right beside I-17 highway, north of Phoenix. I ripped it up for 4 miles, but not hard enough to abuse the new-buyers new tires... I went easy, but had some hard roll-on accelerations. That bike gets the blood pumpin'. I dream of being able to rip an H2R one day...

Ooooooh, this one is gonna be a painful (expensive) learning experience... I hope someone chimes in with the POF Revolution reports in the next 36 hours, and saves his ass...

You just became my new Hero...

That makes perfect sense now... I thought you were using those powders for one load workup... I was thinking WOW! That's some crazy range of powders to be using... Varget is great for .308 Win and 5.56 heavies. RL-15 is just about it's twin, too. I switched to RL-15 after the 2012 Shortage... I'm running Accurate 2495 for my .308 Win 178gr ELD-X loads now. I run RL-22 for my .260 Rem, .300 Win Mag, and .338 LM loads.

I LOVE this comment...

That 01 GSX-R 1000 was a monster of a bike, man. They never should have changed it after that, it was a beast.

What cartridge are you loading, brother?... That's a wide range, on those powders right there...

I'm an M-109 ninja, brother. Been building them and hot-rodding them since they came out. I have a 2007 blue and while LE and a 2011 black and orange LE in the garage. Lemme know when you wanna stretch that 300 PRC out a little. I'm about 161 miles from SV. That's a short drive, in AZ...

One thing about the accuracy - if they're all crimped the same way, at the same tension - then once the primer ignites, they'll have that same neck tension and build to the same pressure - before the projectile is launched from the case. If anything, they make ammo more accurate, that way. You'll definitely see more consistent muzzle velocities, if you're shooting with a chronograph. It's just another piece of the puzzle, brother... Plus - you crimp everything that goes through a semi-auto, like Sisco said, and crimping is absolutely mandatory for anything tube fed, like a 45-70 leever gun. If you've ever seen bullet set-back, it's some pretty skeery shiit - and it compacts the powder charge, and spikes the pressure because of that. Bullet set-back is pretty bad through a semi-auto - it would be completely catastrophic if it ever happened in my 45-70, with the 405gr projectiles I load for that thing. It wouldn't be a blown-up gun - I'd have a blown up torso...

Very familiar with Black Tower, brother. I ran one side of the NCO Academy, then crossed over to run the other side. After that, I stood up L CO, 111th - the Terp Company. What a handfull that was. We stood up in 2006, so you definitely heard some of the shiit that those guys started. What a trainwreck. That made me retire, right there, in 2007. Also very familiar with SV Shooting Range - great place to shoot, since everything else out there in the public lands is shut down. Starting in 2010, I was one of the AppleSeed Instructors out there - if there was a course, I was on the firing line, and teaching some history. If you ever went into the local Suzuki dealership - I was the Service Manager. We crossed paths, at some point - inevitable in that small town. I moved up towards Phoenix in summer 2013, and have been here ever since. We'll shoot together, sometime. I have access to shoot out to 2200 yards, so if there's ever anything you want to test out or do, just let me know. If you can basically travel a little west of Casa Grande, you'll make it to my wide-open desert-paradise range.

You can use whatever your preference is for dies - RCBS, Hornady, whatever. I have a mix of those two brands, mainly, and maybe 3 sets of Lee dies. The Lee Factory Crimp die is available separately, usually for about $15 each. No matter what RCBS or Hornady dies I have - I have a Lee Factory Crimp die for each caliber. It stays in the box with the other dies. 6 ARC is a good example - I waited for Hornady to drop their 2-die set for that, then grabbed a Lee Factory Crimp die as soon as it came out.

Polaris: Any 2013-up RZR 900 is a great machine, way easier to work on than the other ones. Polaris Rangers are the utility rigs with the dump beds, but they're some of the most maneuverable rigs in existence. A RGR 900 would do what you want, well, even though it has a dump bed. With a 2" lift and 1" wheel spacers, you can clear 30" tires easily. Yamaha Rhino 700s are EFI (over the previous Rhino 660s, carbed). You can't break a Rhino drivetrain - they're tough, and go anywhere you point them. 4WD, lock the front diff, go. Kawasaki Teryx 750 and 800s are good, and have a toughass drivetrain, like Rhinos do. The 800s were drastically improved over the 750s, for everything maintenance. Warning about a Teryx - doesn't matter which one you get - changing a drivebelt is a real motherfucker, no matter which one it is... Suzuki never made a side-by side. Can Ams are electrically/electronically pretty fucking complicated machines. They don't have "electrical circuits" for the most part - it's all CAN-BUS communication from electronic part to electronic part. If you don't have the dealer-only BRP "BUDS" diagnostic system, you're not finding out what's wrong with those rigs. Even their jet skis and snow machines are like that... It's easier to work on a modern Porsche than it is to work on a Can-Am/BRP rig. That's my $0.02 on the whole side by side state of affairs right now, brother... EDIT - There's a Yamaha YXZ-1000R out there, 5 speed manual and a real clutch pedal to push. Great rig. They have a Sport Shift version of it that's a paddle shifter, no clutch pedal. Great rig as well. They just came out in 2016, so prices will still be high. There's a Honda Talon, too, with Honda's ESP (Electric Shift Program), that's damn near a manual, but that's a newer rig, too, so prices on the used market will still be higher...

Nope. If anything, it makes them all uniformly as accurate as you loaded them. Puts a uniform crimp on every round - as long as you pay attention to sizing them the same case length. Even it they're a few thou off, in case length - the crimp puts consistent tension on the projectile.

It's an amazing process to watch, especially at night...

^^^ @392heminut NAILED IT...

There's 3 of them on the Nissan right now. Both doors and hood.