98Z5V

Couple different Wilson Combat barrels, MANY BA barrels. Many. I'll go for a BA barrel hands down, if they have the caliber and profile that I want, and I won't even think twice about it - those barrels deliver. When I've hit a spot where I've needed or wanted a specific profile that BA just doesn't make, like a lightweight, I turn to Faxon. When I hit a caliber that I can't find, Wilson Combat makes it... I went Wilson Combat on the .260 Rem and the .338 Fed. Both those barrels are outfuckingstanding. That .260 barrel is crazy-accurate. Those two barrels make me wish I'd tried other calibers that they make - but I'll never turn my back on the BA barrels, no way. My BA Grendel barrels - nothing can touch those things. Krieger... I have an old barrel from Krieger-Criterion, custom profile made by them from 10 years ago, when those two companies worked together, hand-in-hand. It was a custom profile that they made for Fulton Armory. That's probably the best barrel that I own. I'd have to build way more guns up from BA barrels and Wilson Combat barrels and test them against it, to say different. This was the final scope zero on that barrel, and I'm probably the reason that they're not all touching. Prone, bipod, no rear bag - just shooting. If you can't shoot like that, you can't shoot. IMHO. Here's the gun I rebuilt that barrel into - all because of finding a unicorn rail.

In times of crisis, you better not forget about the pus$y-aspect of that crisis... I'm just sayin'... LIsten to this, go get some ass.

You're an Ask-Hole. You're gonna ask alot of questions, get alot of input- then ignore everything that's been presented to you. Because you "research" - and you're never gonna find your "right answer." You don't shoot - you just internet, and look for opinions. You'll NEVER find what's right, because you don't pull the trigger and shoot, and TRY products. Research isn't gonna get you what YOU want. Trial and Error will, though. Here's what i would do - but you won't do it. Even if I told you that I've already used it on several builds, multiple calibers. You won't care. You won't listen, either. Research this pic, and find out what the parts are - They WORK: These work quite well, too:

Gonna need alot more details. With periods after sentences. Not gonna wade through mish-mash thoughts barfed onto the screen, at random. Went through that 15 years ago with ATV kids that couldn't complete a sentence, trying to diagnose why their quad wouldn't run right.

That sucks - I was wondering about this a couple weeks ago, seriously. Move to a Wilson Combat or a Ballistic Advantage barrel, no kidding.

Here we go, Boners and Revolvers...

Gas systems can be very accurate. All 7 of my large-frame ARs are direct impingement gas. They're all good. Now, maybe you ARE asking too much from one gun build. That's why I have 7 - and they're all different, because each one of them does something better than the other one. They all have different reasons for building them. What YOU need to do for your first build, is figure out the things that you REALISTICALLY want it to do. Post those expectations up. We'll let you know what part of your expectations just can't happen with that combination of parts - and what WILL work.

I would say that the most reliable .308AR system you can build, that MUST last the test of time, be neglected, work everytime, shoots any ammo that you pick up or find,function in good weather AND bad weather... Has a ToolCraft BCG, it has an Armalite AR-10 recoil system, it had the proper-length gas tube for your barrel configuration, and it has the proper sized gas port in the barrel. IF it has those things, it will run, always, with any ammo. It's SIMPLE. It DOESN"T involve uber-expensive parts. It involves very proven, reliable parts that function properly every single time. They may not be cheap parts, but you can find deals on them, and they work very well together. Accuracy? More of that is YOU than it is the gun parts that you buy, but some of it is the parts that you buy. I'll bet I can hand you one of several ARs that I have that will cold-bore first-round an IPSC steel plate at 850 yards, everytime - and you can't get it to shoot like that. That's where trigger time, a very solid foundation in shooting fundamentals, and alot of additional training come in. If you really want accuracy, look at 2-stage triggers. And buy a good quality barrel. Don't use shiit Chinese or airsoft parts, use real gun parts, throughout the gun build. Get a good optic, and spend the money on a good mount. If you do those simple things, that gun will outshoot you... You'll need to get better, in order to outshoot that aspect of the parts selection. If seems like you just want to argue, or stir the pot or something, though - because you're not listening to a damn thing that has been told to you. You just refuse to listen. What is your Giant Boner about the JP parts, when you've directly stated that all you know is about research? What's the furthest distance that you've ever shot at, and hit? That's not a call-out, that's an honest question, and recommendations on your honest answer will come from that honest answer - because you're gonna need training. Not internet-education, and looking things up - you need training, and then you'll need alot of practice, where you go out on your own, and apply the training that you learned. And that's gonna take alot of $$$ in ammo.

HELL YEAH!!!!

You're a research-aholic. Build a functional gun from known, proven parts that work, don't complicate it - then fuk with it later and mod it all out. But, do that after it runs right. I've told you what works, to make a functional gun, that eats anything you feed it. What you do is up to you. Good luck.

I hit the grill again today, cooked for the parents at their place in Phx. Worked out well, got the timing on these bastards down, when I can keep the heat right at 450.

Use it in a giant batch of Jambalaya?...

Hit this thread - there's a ton of info in here, with numbers, details, explanations, etc.

This is correct. If it's really AR-10, it's the Armalite pattern. If it's stated as DPMS or LR-308, it's DPMS-based in design. That's why we call everything a .308AR. That covers them all. The most common pattern out there for building your own rifles from parts is definitely the DPMS pattern. There are just more companies that went that route. Gas tubes, length, proper gas port position - is a giant clusterfuck in the Big-AR industry. It either uses AR15 gas tubes, or Armalite AR-10 gas tubes (EDIT - Wilson Combat is doing some of their own gas port positions on their own excellent barrels, and special-length gas tubes that they make in-house). Thank barrel sellers for that one, with funky gas port positioning. You really need the barrel in your hands to see what you've got - and an appropriate AR15 gas tube. If it's too short, you wait, and buy the Armalite AR-10 gas tube to solve the problem.

Speaking from personalmilitary experience, and not a Google search, I can tell you that I didn't have a single issue with my M4A1 in Afghani-land. What I'm stating to you about a build isn't someone else's opinion that I stumbled upon in an online article. It's from personal use, lots of training, lots of $$$ worth of ammo, and the most fucked up conditions that you can imagine. Why would you want to use something like that when the manufacturer is telling you not to? I don't have to swap any buffers of tune any gas on my guns. I pull out the magazine loaded with 178gr ELD-Xs, and I load the magazine of 195gr HPBTs. Or, I load the magazine of 150gr FMJ-BTs. Or the mag of 168gr HPBTs... I don't have to tune, swap, or change anything. Are you understanding the information that's being presented to you? At any rate, you do whatever you want - and good luck. You don't seem to listen. You play it however you want,build whatever you want. Hope it works for you.

I don't have any light or complicated buffers (all are 5.4oz or close, standard buffers), run Armalite EA1095 recoil springs, and all my carriers/BCGs are full weight and not complicated. Simple parts, that work. Make sure your gas system is squared away, and the guns will run any ammo. I don't have a single adjustable gas block. I have 7 of these things. I'm just telling you what has worked for me, all 7 times. I'm pretty sure it's a solid plan to use, and not blind luck.

If you just run a standard carrier, standard gas block, factory Armalite AR-10 recoil system (Carbine of Rifle, either one)... It's a simple gun, you're not adjusting gas, it eats anything...

If you want a reliable gun that's able to eat any ammo, just make it simple, and leave the complicated and fancy parts for another build. Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. What you're describing in your second paragraph sounds just like my 13.5" gun. Here's a report of it our to 400 yards, with just the red dot scope. I'm sure this little gun will do 600 yards easily, and I'll be testing that soon - after I swap a magnified optic on it. I originally wrote this up over on Full30.com: https://forum.full30.com/t/zeroing-a-308-rifle-with-iron-sights/11194/21

NICS was back up today, and crushed my local shop, and John. It just crashed yesterday - went down. John is out of ammo, and damn near out of guns. All the customers are unknowns - never seen 'em before, ever. I went in today after work, to help with his end of day, and it was chaos. Started by working the door, asking prelim questions about what they needed, just to tell them that "it's out of stock right now." Ended up behind the counter, looking through barrels for rifle builds, and telling them if we had it or didn't. This shiit is nuts, and there's no reason for it to be like this.

See now why I asked what I asked? This snippet of a statement from you COMPLETELY changed what advice you'll get, and from who. There are very few of us here that can even THINK about giving you advice on Canadian gun laws. Nobody in the United States can properly advise you on anything-Canadian-Gun-Law. We might sound like dicks here sometimes, but this whole thread proves whey we need to ask what we ask, and the rationale for asking it.

Yes, you can. For a 14.5" barrel, you can either run AR15 midlength gas system or Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas system on a 14.5" barrel - I have it on a 13.5" barrel, the fde gun I posted above. You have another inch of dwell time over what I have on mine. Will it work? Yes, if your gas port is the proper diameter, and you're running the proper recoil system. It'll work like a champ.

Addressing the two things quoted in red above. #1. They have to be referencing gas port position after the chamber - no other way they came up with that number. Gas tubes are not the lengths that they are quoting in that article. #2. I never stated that I had a AR15 Carbine gas system on my 13.5" gun, but the number that you put in there was for an AR15 carbine gas tube length - I specifically stated that I had an Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas system on that gun, and I said that it's a touch longer than AR15 midlength gas. Details... Look again at the gas tube lengths I quoted above. AR15 midlength gas tube is 11 3/4" long. Armalite AR-10 Carbine gas tube is 12 1/16" long... Armalite only does two gas systems for AR-10s. Carbine and Rifle gas. Armalite AR-10 gas tubes are 3/16" longer than comparable AR15 gas tubes, and they have different bends to them to account for height-over-bore. They're different from AR15 parts, totally. Details like this are why it sucks, for us here, when someone jumps on the board and tells us all about their AR-10 build, and we start asking questions, only to find out that it's really a DPMS LR-308-based build, and nothing to do with Armalite AR-10 pattern at all... The two are not identical, and there are differences... There are even bigger differences once you toss in the Bushmaster BAR-10/RRA LAR-10 design. Both those handguards, black gun and fde gun, are 12" versions.

Krieger actually DOES rifle their own barrels, and can do whatever they want for twist. Very, very few "barrel makers" actually rifle their own barrels - they buy rifled blanks, contour them, chamber them, etc... from rifled blanks. Krieger, Wilson Arms, Green Mountain, Bartlein, PacNor, Ballistic Advantage, Faxon - they actually really make barrels, from metal rounds, rifling included. Olympic Arms used to, but I don't know if they're still doing it these days. A whole bunch of other companies don't do that, buy rifled blanks, and do the rest of the work. Best bet - you see someone advertise a 1:11" twist - call them. It's gonna be a 1:11.25" barrel.

You'll see alot of barrels advertised as 1:11" twist, but they're not that. They're 1:11.25" twist. That's the number that Eugene Stoner came up with for twist rate for the M110 design, when he was working for Knight's Armament, desigining the M110. The Army mandated the projectile, 175gr Sierra MatchKing, and they mandated the effective point-target range of the weapons platform, as well as the barrel length of the design. Eugene Stoner determined that the 1:11.25" twist was perfect for that barrel profile, range and barrel length that the Army mandated. Advertisers and marketing people get that wrong, but it won't matter. If you see something listed as 1:11" twist, just know that it's 1:11.25" twist, and that's the reason. No manufacturer is rifling barrel blanks at 1:11". I shoot some 195gr handloads through a 1:10" twist AR. That's all I have for .308 Winchester guns, minus one Kimber bolt gun that's 1:12" twist. All the other .308s, be it bolt gun or AR, are 1:10" barrels. If 1:11.25" is absolutely perfect for 175s at distance - would they stabilize the 195s that I play with? I have no idea, because I don't have any of those barrels. Will either work? Hell yeah, they're both gonna get you to 1k yards, if you do your part, and you built a good gun. The heavier your projectile, the less the wind will mess with it. If you can get the initial muzzle velocity up where it needs to be, the heavier projectile will have a longer transonic range than a lighter projectile. This does not apply to subsonic loads and projectile weights.