98Z5V

Standard gas block on mine. I don't own a single adjustable gas block, in this house. You're only talking about a 0.010" jump in size, so just go straight to it. It'll be fine if you go slow with light pressure - let the bit eat.

Welcome, man - we'll get that .260 sorted out in short order.

Okay, it's a website-product-listing-glitch on the website. One guy here DID order three bottles, and the shop owner is aware of the issue - so the shop owner didn't charge him any shipping, at all... Here's the deal - the lube was listed under the wrong category (wrong inventory code) for the shop - this will get fixed, eventually, when website people figure out website coding, and fix it. In the interim, shipping is a flat-rate of $9.95. Doesn't matter if you order one bottle of lube or 20 bottles of lube. $9.95 shipping. That's the temp fix for now, until the website gets fixed for real. Hope that works for everyone, because that's the current solution. If you see something different in your cart, don't worry about it. Your shipping charge will only be $9.95.

Damn TRUTH right there...

I went 16" on my .338 Fed build. Details are in here:

What's the twist rate on those barrels they offer? I ask, because I shoot 147gr in .260 Rem, 178gr in .308 (and I'm playing with 195s), and 225gr in .338 Fed. All my .308 Win guns are 1:10" twist rate. The .260 is a 20" Wilson Combat 1:8" twist rate. The .338 Fed is a 16" Wilson Combat 1:10" twist rate. Those barrels stabilize my loads excellently.

I've never been able to find a chart, reference, or anything on it. Time on the gun is the only thing I know about it, differences here and there, what works, what doesn't. This is, however, the exact reason we started keeping track of gas port diameters here on the board, everytime we get a new barrel and get it working... Stick a 1/4" wooden down down your barrel before you start drilling. Go with slow drill speed, and light pressure on the drill. Use a numbered drill bit - ACE Hardware carries the Irwin bits, in numbered sizes. Don't use fractional bits - not enough difference between them to get close to 0.080". You need a #46 drill bit (0.081"). For reference: https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/numberdrillsize.php

That was a great video! Down to earth, simple terms from Ryan, always. At the 10-minute-ish mark, he was talking about ocular focus, and I want to add what I do. Most of the scopes I buy anymore (last 6 or 7 years) have a parallax adjustment on them - "side focus" is a common term for it. I always set the focus up on a new scope at 100 yards, at a defined target that I can see clearly (one of those sighter targets in multiple colors, or something like that). I set my parallax adjustment to 100 yards THEN I start tweaking the ocular focus ring, until I can see clearly. Not only are you focusing your scope to YOU, but you're "zero'ing" your parallax adjustment. SUPER IMPORTANT not to fuk that up. Let's say your parallax adjustment was almost on 500 when you set your scope up - and you adjusted the focus to YOU like that - your parallax adjustment, and the ranges on it, are worthless to you when you're out there doing it,with wind, dirt flying, etc. I like these targets the best, for this task: If you're red/green colorblind, they won't work well for you...

Your gas port diameter for that caliber and that length of dwell time need to be 0.080". Your gas port is too small. Your gun will eat any ammo that you throw at it after you drill that gas port diameter up to 0.080. I'm running rifle gas on a 20" Wilson Combat .260 barrel, so we have the exact same dwell time (length). Let's sort he gas system out first, and get it running. We mess with recoil system parts later, after the gun runs.

Working on it, so just watch this thread for results.

I should know what's going on with the shipping, by sometime tomorrow. I'll update after that.

Several years ago, right here, I told the story of that cat-asshead... Had a neighbor that had two boston terriers, and they terrorized him. He finally got tired of their shiit, and went over the east wall of the compound to get them. He chewed up one really bad, hit the other, and - WHAM! He didn't pay attention to the black lab that got him. He lost a toe on a hind leg over that one. THAT was when he realized that he now had to fight a Lab. The neighbor lost a leaf rake over the deal, trying to "shoo" him through an RV gate... TactiCat never had to fight a leaf rake before, so he destroyed it... It was ugly. Those neighbors moved out a couple months later, after I laughed about it... "You got 1.5 damaged dogs and lost a leaf rake - to a CAT?!... I'll BUY you a new leaf rake as soon as you BUY MY CAT A NEW TOE!!!" GTFO... They moved... That story is up on this board, I'm positive of it... I never got those pictures of that boston that I was promised, and how bad it's damage was... and I never got sued, like was threatened.

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!! Welcome aboard Jim!!! Let's get that info on that .308 gun up when you can - find those recoil system dimensions for me, and we have a place to start figuring it all out.

You're very welcome - and that's the skin in the game here...

Go hit the Intro Section and tell us about yourself, then I'll tell you what I see in the pics you've posted. There's some good, some bad... Hit it...

Go hit the Intro Section, and tell us a WHOLE LOT about yourself. This is a community, and we don't owe anybody any information. You've already gotten a great headstart on free-info, so it's time you make your dues. Here's a link to the intro section: https://forum.308ar.com/forum/22-introductions/

That's the sign of a weak recoil system, right there... I can almost guarantee you that Faxon didn't give you a gas port diameter that was TOO large - it's more the opposite, with gas port diameters - too small. If you opened it up and had that happening - your recoil system is the fault here. It's not strong enough. That 3.8oz buffer weight is Number One, too. It need to be 5.4oz. List your recoil parts dimensions, and don't get wrapped up by what I just said - but that's the problem here. Or, it's the biggest problem, right now...

Details, details. JP Carbine spring - for what? .308AR or a 5.56 gun? two different animals. Spring specs, like I asked before. Buffer... it's a "Brownells 3.8 buffer" - well, how long is it? It's either 2.500" or it's 3.250" long. "bcm carbine length tube" = what" What the internal depth? It's either 7.000" internal, or it's 7 5/8" internal - BCM doesn't mess that up. But, it's one or the other. Since you fired 75 rounds, the recoil system isn't trashed - it worked. Before. Something happened here, that made the gun not run anymore...

You fuckers ain't met TactiCat yet. He lives to fight dogs. He might not take out a combat dog or a police dog - but he doesn't back down. He charges. ^^^ Those two already had their asses kicked by him many times... They knew better...

That is from extracting and ejecting a live round from the chamber - they're dragging against the locking lugs, on the right side of the locking lugs - during extraction. That's to be expected. Pics would help. If you show the marks on your live-extracted ammo - those marks will be spaced apart the same distance as the locking lugs in the barrel extension. Pics, man. Put 'em up. We're trying to diagnose something, and we're blind here, literally...

THIS is why I only buy from Reputable Vendors. That's Rule #1, right there.

That 5.56 took a minute to figure out. Almost half a 20-rd mag. That bitch was DRIFTING, bigtime. I've never shot 5.56 in that kinda shiit, at the 850 - LEARNED ALOT ABOUT IT, with that, and it was very vaulable info... The .308 168gr did great, in that wind - for a 168. I had some wind hold on that fucker for those, but it performed. My 178-load would have smoked that. That .260 didn't give a shiit... That wind didn't fuk with it much. That .260 against any wind is kind like me, brother...

There were warnings from EOTech back in 2009, on CalGuns message board, about that fake Chinese shiit-copies... Those EOTech links from 2009 are all dead now, and you can only find the one I posted, now...

More like 5-ish, but yeah, with EOTech. Here's their web page on it, but it doesn't have a date: https://www.eotechinc.com/counterfeit-alert-how-to-spot-a-fake