98Z5V

I think your statement is directly backwards, especially in reference to WWII. Other companies, that had nothing to do with guns, rearranged their hardware manufacturing facilities - in order to produce guns for WWII. Support for the country. Gun manufacturers didn't have any - ANY - time during WWII to manufacturer ANYTHING but guns. They didn't make anything else, during WWII - but maybe they did afterwards, when the war ended. Other companies that started making gun parts - DURING WWII - were Rockola (juke boxes), IBM (typewriters) and Singer (sewing machines). They all made M1 Carbine parts. Every part of this country, during WWII, supported the war effort,and changed direction in what they did - in order to support the war effort. Gun companies and manufacturers didn't have time, during WWII, to do anything else than what they made - and they were so behind that other manufacturing companies stepped in.

^^^ That's gotta be one expensive headspace gauge set, right there. That is impressive!

Carrie Underwood does...

Trust this guy when he says this... ^^^

That was about my last shooting day before Arizona Heat hit me, beginning of June. Too effin' hot to shoot here in the summer, unless you shoot a night shoot, when the "low" is 90. I rode that short .308 out to 400 yards that day, red dot only (will be the same for irons). Here's about what you'll expect from a 50-yard zero on yours. It'll be a little different, on your 18" barrel over my 13.5" barrel, but not by much out to that 400 distance. You're golden out to 300, and it turns into a crapshoot after that. Details here:

Zero those things for 50 yards then. You'll be slightly low at 25 yards, 2.5" low at 7 yards, and about 3-ish" high at 100 yards. That's a good average over that distance, for a .308 Win round. This was a 50-yard zero on a red dot, co-witnessed through the irons (same as shooting the irons). Target is 100 yards, point of aim was dead center, top of white square. Impacts are 3-ish inches up from point of aim. It works good for .308 and irons, overall, through that range of just about zero, to the 100 yards.

Two funny Virginia license plates...

Whats the max distance you'll shoot those irons, Peach?

Find pic on the internet. Left click pic, right click "Copy image location." That copied the pic. Come to board,get in your topic, get into your reply. Hit "Ctrl-V" - and that just pasted your pic into the thread. I'll show you:

Nope, once it's set, it's set.

Yes, it will. You may have already fixed that bolt wear, though, and just don't know it, with the further mods you continued to make. That bolt wear might have been from before. If that Fulton bolt isn't chewed up, I'd put that one in there instead. That PSA bolt has been through some hell already. Sprinco Orange spring - will always have orange paint on the end of it. That's the end that goes into the extension first - stick the buffer on the unpainted end. Picking up one wouldn't hurt, just to know what you are working with - try it out. I think they're $14, straight from Sprinco. If it's the exact same spring that you have now, dimensionally, I'll buy it from you and pay shipping to me, so you're now out anything. I'll stick it in a PCC build or something.

The difference between them is in the leade, which is a chamber-reamer function. The case length, shoulder distance and shoulder angle are the same. .223 Wylde included. Any gauges should work, as long as they're quality gauges. Field gauge is only for checking in-service weapons, not new ones. If it swallows No-Go gauge, you test with a Field Gauge. If it eats that one, time for a barrel.

They clearanced the lower so you can't tell if the BCG is crashing into it, which is caused from their improper-length (depth) receiver extensions. Their "heavy buffer" is just that - H1.

Oh, wait... am I even allowed to post in a 6.5C thread, and use .260 Rem as a comparison?...

That 22" will be perfect. You should still be supersonic at 1500 yards with a heavy projectile (147gr). My 147s in the .260 are still supersonic at 1500, with a 20" barrel. Run that blem'd barrel, brother, as long as the blem is only cosmetic.

My Sprinco Orange spring is 11.000" long, 28 coils, 0.073" wire diameter. Call Midway about that, our numbers are close on these springs. A rifle-gas 20" barrel will have a gas-port to barrel-end distance (dwell time) of about 6.875". For a 0.750" gas block journal diameter, you would need a gas port diameter of 0.093"~0.096" for proper function. With a balanced recoil system - which it seems you have. Your gas port diameter you measured is in that range, just at the bottom of it.

That's normal cam pin wear. I'll get into the other stuff in a few minutes, but you need to get that recoil spring outta there and put in a Sprinco Orange spring. It's specifically developed for the .308AR platform, running a 7.000" internal depth carbine receiver extension and a 2.500" long buffer (which is your setup). Everything else looks good, the Fulton gas tube in there makes a differences, and it's "more correct" than that short gas tube it was shipped with. Gas system, peding gas port diameter information - Check. Looks good as you've pictured it. Recoil system - MagPul UBR with integrated receiver extension - MagPul never fucked that one up, 7.000" internal. KAK 5.3oz buffer, at 2.500" length - that's good. DPMS spring you listed, from the Midway ad: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1003344651?pid=813595 The only people I know of that paint the end of their springs is Sprinco. You need to call Midway, and ask them if that part number they have is a Sprinco Orange spring, and they didn't label it as such. If that's really the case, that's the perfect spring for your setup. Best I can come up with, from that picture, is a coil-count of about 30. I'll be back with gas port diameter information for a rifle-gas 20" .308AR barrel with a 0.750" gas block journal, and verification of a a Sprinco Orange spring dimensions.

You ever been around a platoon of Rangers? You yell out at morning PT formation, when they're only dressed in t-shirts, Ranger Panties and running shoes, "Hey you motherfuckers! There's an anvil in the middle of the hand-to-hand pit over there - first one of you dickheads that breaks it gets a 4-day pass..." That anvil is done... It's gonna be SAVAGE.

Bare hands.

Next few days will get it resolved, major progress tonight, that's for sure. I think I'm the one that either exposed, or threw the monkey wrench into - the glitch in the Matrix. Probably the latter. I could break an anvil in a sand pit.

There's something happening in the last few days, and I think I was the first issue with it. @Robocop1051, more info, brother, right here...

Here are the pieces and specifics that we need to know, on the gas system and recoil system, in order to see if they're working "correctly." In this, with numbers, anything can be figured out. Gas system info that's needed: Barrel length and gas system length (i.e., 18" barrel, midlength gas). gas port diameter, gas block journal size (this ultimately affects the proper gas port diameter), what is the gas tube protrusion into the upper receiver? Pics help on this, because a proper-lengthed gas tube will end directly in the very center of the cam pin cutout in the upper receiver. Recoil system info that's needed: Internal depth of the receiver extension, measured from the top of the extension, until the tape bottoms out in the bottom of it. Buffer length and weight (we have 5.3oz on the weight already - need length). We know the recoil spring - DPMS LR-308 spring - but is it an actual DPMS part, real DPMS part? Rifle or carbine spring? What's the brand on that thing, if it's not a real DPMS part shipped from DPMS? If you can, post the relaxed length of the spring, wire diameter, and coil count. If you can give me that information, I can tell you if your recoil system and gas system will work with each other, or fight each other. This thing was definitely trying to unlock early, as evidenced by the bolt lug issues you pictured above, earlier in the thread. The heaviest wear was from bolt thrust, solely. If it were mine, I would sort the gas system and recoil system, make sure I was straight on them, and replace that bolt (not the BCG, just the bolt), because with the wear on those lugs, you will shear a lug sometime in the future. Maybe more than one. Bolt lugs should never look like that, and that's the sign, right there, to get that thing out of the gun. First though, is figuring out why it went like that. If you changed any parts in the gas system, or recoil system, over time - knowing that info will help, too. When you changed what, what you changed it from and to, why, etc... Details on previous parts will help, if parts were changed. I'm positive that you have a PSA buffer hanging around somewhere, because they've never shipped a gun out of that factory with a 5.3oz buffer... I know alot of this was probably already discussed in this thread, but having it all in one post is gonna streamline this process, and get to the bottom if it much quicker...

Yep, working through it. I guess I was the guinea pig. Or Karma is catching up with me.

I think this was the first person here to move to a BSF carbon fiber barrel: Hit that thread up, quote a post of his,and he'll be back on. I'm curious to see how it's turned out anyhow. @Robocop1051 is correct - the carbon fiber barrels aren't really "light," but they're lighter than the exact-same-profile steel or stainless steel barrel. I know his Proof barrel is pretty damn tough, too. "Smash up some cinderblocks with it" kinda tough. Literally.