98Z5V

Pretty damned tempting...

Let me break this down for you in terms that should clearly be easy to understand. The bottom line of THIS FUCKING SUBJECT, RIGHT HERE THAT YOU'RE POSTING IN, IS ABOUT THE NEW ZEALAND GUN BAN. FUCKING PERIOD. DO YOU GET THAT NOW? Take your fucking off-topic bullshiit to another area of the board, I don't care where. Just don't toss your fucking garbage in here. I hope for you, that you get that through your head.

It was the pass-through hole to insert that pin, from the inside, then they peen it in place from the outer (opposite) side.

He has his own section here, brother. Best guy you'll every likely meet, too - just badass https://forum.308ar.com/forum/118-beachin-tactical/

Hey, SS - do me a favor. Call White Oak Armory or Fulton Armory and ask them how much it costs to send your gun to them for "cleaning..." I'm SURE you'll get an answer... but you might not like it. That's not what they do...

As a business owner, I'd try to tailor my business towards a "niche service" or 'niche set of performance goals." Cleaning guns, as a gunsmith, it's one of them. YOU clean YOUR gun. Your gun is broken? I can fix it. Your gun is DIRTY? I'll call you and tell you your gun is dirty, and it doesn't work, because you're too lazy/dumb/uneducated to CLEAN it. At that point, if the gun owner comes to the shop, I charge them to teach them how to break it down, to clean it.... HEFTY, too. I'm in a customer service, pleasure business, SS. I fix broken pleasure vehicles, not daily drivers. I tweak shiit, make it better, faster, whatever - you well know what I do. Tell my on the phone that you want me to dyno your Harley, and you bring me that thing muddy as fuk, Florida swamp grass hanging off it. I'm not putting that thing on MY dyno like that. At that very point, I'll tell you to take it home, CLEAN IT, and bring it back when you're ready to load it on the drum. Buh Bye, hope you come back clean... Personal BUSINESS is about what YOU are willing to do. I'm not cleaning guns, as a gunsmith. AS a gunsmith, "Cleaning YOUR guns" will not be on my "service menu options" either. As a Gun Shop Owner, as you state, I would not tailor my business into cleaning someone's neglected gun, because they're to lazy/dumb/uneducated to do it. I wouldn't open up a business that tailors to that. I'd be smarter than that. You don't HAVE to service EVERYONE, and you NEVER need to have EVERY customer. There ARE customers that you can look right in the eye, and tell them that you don't need their business. I've done it. Buy, whatever. You do you, and tell me how to do my own work... If I own the business, I'll tell you this much - you, the customer, are not gonna tell me how to run my own business...

That right there tells the whole story... Am I wrong here?...

Fuckin. truth, right there.

Check your bolt. Insert your bolt, and rotate it. If it doesn't rotate - punch that Lawyer Pin out. Heard from @willbird that used a SIG bolt, that his bolt rotated with it in there. Mine didn't, with a ToolCraft bolt. There's an external dimensional extractor difference between the SIG bolt and the "others" apparently. Lawyer Pin. "decommission these barrels and sell them" says the lawyers. This is what they came up with, I guess. I punched mine out with a roll-pin punch that was slightly smaller than the OD of the OUTSIDE of that visible pin. You MUST punch it INWARD. You'll never get that thing to punch through if you try to punch it OUTWARD, from the inside of the extension. If you try that, show me the pics of the destroyed extension, brother... I punched mine right out, inward, after my TC bolt didn't rotate. Fuk that thing. Think about it - how's CDNN selling us a $450 barrel for $50? You think they do NOT have a profit on these things? Damn right they do. They're making money, and they got these barrels cheap. SIG had to come up with something to blow these barrels out, and make them "inoperable" - we just beat the system.

Here comes @Exhail,thinkin' he's gonna school us on slings...

I just had to dig into my stash, brother. "Sling" is never last on my mind for a gun, but I often forget it during a build. I remedied that shiit years ago. Right now, I have a spare B-TAC sling, and two spare V-TAC Mk1 slings.... However, none of these bitches are the B-TAC VTAC sling... THAT is the one... I'm stocked, and can get by - but I'll only be happy if they were the COMBO...

B-TAC V-TAC, brother. Ask Jacob for those...

Hand cannon, woman. Way to eat that recoil.

Why you doing a 16", brother? I'm doing an 18"...

You can call that a "big difference" all you want, but that's not the ground truth, when dealing with both of them, out here in the practical world - shooting them. I don't have friends with 6.5 Creedmoors having feeding issues - my friends don't have feeding issues with their 6.5 Creedmoor ARs - or bolt guns. I don't have friends with 6.5 Creedmoors - that I shoot - damaging Hornady ELD-M tips and affecting accuracy "at 1000 yards" as the OP claims. I've shot their guns, certainly at 850 yards repeatedly, and at 1k and 1.1k a few times. I'm on a different side of the fence than you are SS - you're dealing in theory, like the OP is. I'm dealing in reality, and practical application here, between two cartridges. Similar case volume, same base diameter, same projectile, similar powders and case charges... You can talk all you want, support all you want - I'm telling you that the differences that you "think" might be here between the two rounds isn't nearly as drastic as you "think" they are - they're pretty negligible, when you get the guns out there and make them work. I've already done it, brother. Holy shiit, I can give a 6.5 Creedmoor shooter - on a drastically different gun profile - MY drop data to hit targets at 1k and 1.1k yards - and he makes a 1st round shot that's damn near on-target at those distances? And you're gonna tell be about the "big differences" between those two rounds? It doesn't exist... You obviously didn't read the link - and the links within - that I left for you. If you had, you'd understand that your argument makes little sense...

Great, now go back and tell me about that "Davidson" bolt you have now. You replaced your bolt with a "Davidson" bolt, you stated. Is this "Davidson" company that you're referring to Davidson Defense? Is that the company you're talking about?... You're acting like that's an announcement that you stumbled upon? Or an announcement that you made? Because that's definitely "one of your charts" right there.

@Exhail, this is the "important part" of what he was asking you...

If the lugs on the barrel extension aren't lined up in the receiver, you have a manufacturing issue with the barrel manufacturer. There are several steps in making a barrel for an AR that are followed. First, the index pin does not, ever, lock a barrel extension to a threaded barrel. The index pin only goes into the extension, and doesn't, ever, go deep enough to get into the threads in the barrel itself. It's simply a locating pin, in the extension, to center the barrel. Many people think the index pin locks the extension to the threaded barrel, and nothing further from the truth, will you find. So, step one, if you're already working with a barrel blank profile that's finished (outer contour) and rifled. The barrel extension goes onto the barrel at 175lb/ft. Not a typo. Most barrel extensions are already machined with the index pin exactly 180 degrees from the feed ramps, before they ever go on a barrel. That puts the feed ramps at the bottom, and the index pin directly at the top - so when you mount it, your feedramps are directly centered at 6 o'clock. Hey, maybe your barrel maker didn't have a drilled index pin location on that extension, had to do it himself, and was off by a degree or two. Not common, though. Usually not a "gunsmith job" unless your gunsmith is making the extensions himself. Step 2 - if you have an extension that wasn't drilled for the locating pin - you index exactly 180 degrees from the feedramp center on the bottom, and drill the locating pin hole into the top of the extension, 180 out from that. Step 3 - barrel extension is already torqued to 175lb/ft, you have barrel index pin location, you now have barrel centerline, . You drill the gas port directly in line with the index pin, which is on barrel centerline. Step 4 - chamber the barrel. ream the chamber to set the headspace, according to that barrel extension that was properly torqued onto the barrel at 175lb/ft, then the rest of the barrel was machined. Chambering is the last step. So, could something have gone wrong in that process? Maybe. Is something machined "off?". Maybe. Was is assembled incorrectly? Maybe. Something isn't right, though, the way that thing is chewing up your bolt lugs. Those are horrible - that wear isn't even normal. Take advantage of the PSA Lifetime Guarantee, and send the barrel back, and ask for a replacement of the bolt - which is fubar'd.

Damn right it was. Those fuckers.

This is a very valuable thread - and we can wreck shiit routinely, I get it. But this isn't one to be wrecked, with a bunch of off-topic horseshiit.

I played with the whole EMP lineup at a show last year, they're fuckin' BAD. I licked the FDE one, and asked them if I could keep it, since I licked it. They were NOT amused...

We've traded PMs. Maybe we're plotting against you?...

The next 1911-based 9mm I'll buy will be this one - Springfield Armory EMP 4". Gonna be quite awhile before I buy that thing, though, with them wanting $1220 for it...

That P238 is a better pistol than the Colt Mustang. Nothing wrong with the Mustang - that 238 is just a better gun. When it comes down to this, I just ask people, "What's your life worth?..." Full rip MSRP on that 238 is $679. Street price isn't far off that, but deals are out there. Both those pistols are still a .380, though. Since you're stuck on a 1911 design, have you considered the Kimber Micro 9? Move to the 9mm, and you've got a TON more "personal-defense ammo options" that are way better than anything that's .380. Full rip MSRP on THIS particular Kimber Micro 9 is $654. Again street price is better. You can get WAY more into much more money on the Micro 9 lineup, that's for damn sure. The one I pictured above is the "MIcro 9 Stainless", Kimber model # 3300158. Here it is for $499. I stopped searching when I found this one, but there are other street prices out there around $525-ish... https://www.rkguns.com/kimber-micro-9-stainless-9mm-compact-pistol-3300158.html

Everybody that comes out here and shoots with me, understands the importance of a good sling. Maybe it's clear on my prevalence of V-TAC Mk1 slings, too, now. The only other sling I'll have is a Beachin' sling. I need to get Jacob to make me a B-TAC V-TAC modded sling, in a bad way.