98Z5V

You, are a complete lost cause. Good luck with your hot loads, and BCA barrels. I don't think you're smart enough to figure it out. Maybe you should open your eyes a little, and learn something. Start here: http://americanshootingjournal.com/260-remington-vs-6-5-creedmoor/

FUK ME! I left that out!... Hornady 123 ELD-M, only.

I love a great remake. Covers these days are badass.

Best thing you can do for your shooting is buy a shot timer. I'm not joking. If you're every going to do anything where you work on time, you have to measure it so you can see results. I've been using a shot timer since 2011(?), and it changes everything. Once you can SEE improvements, you can think back about what you did different to GET those improvements. For years, I'd shoot, and say, "Yeah, that felt better..." but it might have been 2/10ths off what I just did. Seeing is believing, and seeing improvement keeps you motivated.

20 years ago today, @ Woodstock '99. Limpy, Nookie.

I've clearly discussed my experience with .260 Remington, with is the virtual twin to 6.5 Creedmoor, yet you ignore that, completely. Completely. I can't get you to answer anything, unless I directly call you out on this BS exercise you're engaging in. So tell me, @Phantom30,how do my Hornady 147 ELD-Ms survive in my .260 Remington, and why am I not seeing the wild group-spreading that you "theorize" at 850 yards?...

My Grendel load is pretty simple. Hornady brass, CCI 41 primers, 28.5gr AA 2520 powder. I seat them to 2.260", then run them all through the Lee Factory Crimp die in another process. I built that load on the first 18" Grendel. After I built the 12.5", I thought that load was hot, and my next accuracy node down was 27.5gr. After the 3rd, 4th, and 5th Grendel, I realized that those were not pressure signs I was seeing on my original load - that's just what happens in these things. I decided to move my load back up to 28.5gr, after chrono testing through these guns. After looking at it, it's easy to see what happened between the two loads, between the 16" and 18". 27.5gr AA 2520: 12.5" // 2250 // 2259 // 2236 // 2225 // 2225 = 2239 AVG 16" // 2389 // 2381 // 2387 = 2385 AVG 18" // 2320 // 2312 // 2299 // 2310 // 2306 // 2310 // 2311 = 2309 AVG 16" beat the 18" by 76fps?!!? WTF?!!? 28.5gr AA 2520: 12.5" // 2367 // 2358 // 2381 // 2373 // 2312 = 2369 AVG 16" // 2460 // 2485 // 2468 // 2488 = 2475 AVG 18" // 2516 // 2542 // 2534 // 2531 // 2537 = 2534 AVG That's why that damn 16" was doing so well, compared to the 18" that I was used to. The 16" was outperforming it, at 27.5gr. That must have been a great barrel length for a 16" barrel, but in the 18", it had already burned up all 27.5gr before the bullet even exited - and the projos were slowing down trying to get out of the barrel. Overall, the 28.5gr load is much better, in all barrel lengths that I have. It picked up speed everywhere, that's another accuracy node (the original node that I found), and it got that 18" back on track to where it should be. Start maybe a half grain under, for the 20", and just work up. Or, just start at 27.5 and work up. You'll see when it comes together.

I only do that on .260 Rem brass that I make from Hornady .308 Win Match brass. That's the only cartridge that I neck DOWN. I uniform those necks. Every other bastard cartridge that i make, I neck up. .338 Fed, up from .308 Win. 25-45, up from 5.56. Up isn't the issue with neck thickness, down is. Every single piece of .260 that I make from Hornady .308 Match - even though it's MATCH brass - I always get different cuts on every one of them, when running them through the neck sizer. I'm using this stuff to do it, example if the 6.5mm that I use: https://kmshooting.com/26neck.html

@Peachey, we used my 178gr Hornady HPBT handloads on this one...

By the way. You have a surprise coming for this Fall Shoot. BIG.

That was the SHORTEST build I ever did - and it wasn't even MY MONEY!!! That WHOLE THING went down in 2.5 weeks, DELIVERED TO DOOR!!!... You, my brother, are my hero, on that thing...

@Matt.Cross, you know I upped my load again, on the Grendel loads, right?... WAY faster now...

Valid argument - it started when I handed you that 12.5 Grendel out there on long range day... from vaporware and an idea...

We'll shoot out to 450 yards at night, and I'll run that same load through the 20" precision bolt gun, and it never fails me. It's a good, overall load, for any .308 Win gun, no matter bolt or gasser AR. Same ammo through same bolt gun in this one, the year prior. Tag-Team that target. Beat it up. It's a solid load.

My .308 Win "range trash ammo" that I'll shoot through any and every .308 Win gun I have, bolt gun or AR, is whatever brass I have left over, CCI 200 primers, Hornady 150 FMJ-BT projectiles, and 43.6gr of Alliant RL-15 powder. Works in every gun, every time, and is pretty accurate out to 500-ish yards through any of them. That's what I ran testing this thing, in this thread:

Example of what I'm talking about. Only precision-based loads get specific brass. .260 Remington = reform it all myself out of Hornady .308 Match Brass. Only. Nothing else has every been fired through that gun, ever. .308 Win precision loads = only loaded in Hornady .308 Match Brass. 6.5 Grendel = only made with Hornady new packaged brass, or Hornady "Black" Grendel loaded ammo, once-fired. .300 Blackout = only from handed down, factory-headstamped .300BLK brass; if I make my own, I only make it with Lake City once-fired 5.56 NATO brass. 5.56 precision loads = I will only load those with Lake City 5.56 NATO brass. 25-45 Sharps = only made from PMC Bronze 5.56/.223 once-fired brass. .338 Federal = only made from Hornady .308 Win "standard" brass, or from purchased, once-fired .338 Federal brass. .300 Win Mag = I'll load whatever I can get for that thing, until I get better with it, and I see round-deviation-on-target, that I can trace directly back to the brass differences. It's beast enough, I'm not fucking with it until I get better with it. Everything else goes into the "generic range ammo" loadings.

What are you gonna load with those cases? I mean, what are you looking for from the ammo? Super accurate loads, repeatable everytime? Range blasting ammo? I only sort precision loads that way. I only use one type of brass for those loads (varies on brass manufacturer, by what caliber it is). For Range Ammo, I gather up all that weird shiit and load it with a generic projectile, with a medium-towards-hot load, so it works in all those guns in that caliber... Clutch-hand or brake-hand?... I blew out a green-stick fracture in my right hand on a pretty immediately-violent dune crash, only one ever. That's the throttle hand on a quad. Sucked to get back to camp, and that was the first day on a long-weekend. I drank in a buddy's parent's motorhome the rest of the time, and cooked. Fucked my race quad all up, swole-up fatass right hand. Fucked weekend, but I made the best of it... Put a knife in the palm of my clutch hand, hit the tendon for my index finger 2 years ago - 3 days for a big dune trip. I was out. If I can't clutch, I can't ride, and if I can't ride, I won't go. First dune trip I missed in 14 years... I hear ya...

That's right - no slack...

I caught that, fucker...

Here's a good intro to 3 Gun... Very experienced shooter, right when he got into 3 Gun. HILARIOUS YT CHANNEL, too...

@Phantom30, please, please, please... answer that one, too...

If this is SO bad to shoot these ELD-Ms through an AR platform, and the tips all deform when you chamber them, @Phantom30, then why isn't is affecting my 850-yard downrange performance on those guns I stated above?...

Here's a PERFECT example of what I'm talking about, right in my last post. Misdirection and BS... You have UNCRIMPED handloads, right there. That's not "not enough crimp..." There's ZERO crimp on those. You already stated, in all your charts earlier how you're loading these - BCG locked back, chambering them with the bolt release. The only reason they didn't come out of those cases further, it because the projectiles hit the rifling lands, and that's the marks you're seeing on them. Look at that Blue Monster you have up there - that thing BURIED itself in your rifling lands...

Wow - you are some piece of work. Just to you know, it's not "Oak" or "Oak Armament." It's White Oak Armament. Not that we've solved that, with you eluding to all kinds of things, ... WHO MADE YOUR BARREL? WHAT BRAND IS IT? You misdirect, provide useless information, then try your smoke and mirrors... It's almost like "you don't really WANT a solution" - you just want to post up a whole bunch of shiit that doesn't even pertain to what you asked. The deeper you go, the deeper we get, the more BS comes out of you, and even more misdirection...

She didn't give birth - he got tired of being in there and fought his way out.