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It IS a word, brother!!! All PNW people say "BOLTH" when they're talking about the two of them... I gave my girl and her two kids hell about that for 10 years, whenever they'd speak...

If you would have answered my previous question, I'd probably have an answer for you already. SAME LOT NUMBER ON ALL AMMO, OR NOT?... Hopefully, you saw it that time...

Then post your tests and verification. Post your empirical evidence, Jack. Post your proof. Show me the money, post your data. I'm sure Hornady will want to talk to you about it, too.

YEAH!!!

^^^ My brother is SO PNW it's not even funny... Once he falls over, it's gonna take BOLTH of us to get him back up...

Thanks for the info - I don't even know how many AP receiver sets I have, I'd seriously have to get the guns out and count them. What I was stating was pretty simple - #1, the bolt catch that you were referencing is not 4-40, though you stated that. Not true. #2, you can do this to ANY AR lower, no matter large or small. I was stating how to do it with a 4-40 tap, or with a 6-32 tap if 4-40 set screws aren't available to you... You seem to be confused, telling me all about the AP lower you got. We were drilling and tapping these things 10 or more years ago - and finally a company came on board and started tapping them before any of you even received them, tapping them right from the factory... That make sense now?...

I even got Rob hooked on it...

You can easily see how that body position eats recoil, and minimizes movement at the gun (That was a very sweet .338 Laupa Magnum, Barrett MRAD - thank you @Rsquared). From the shooting perspective, your body soaks it up, and there's very little movement as far as scope/shooter/target go. Having the gun "tamed" like it needs to be is the biggest part - but the body position is the second piece of that. Best part of doing that is that it negates - as much as it can - your breathing, and that effect of breathing, when looking through the scope-at-target.

Nice - how you've got that firing side leg out there. You know what's up. Ease up the tension on your solar plexus, minimize how your breathing affects your shot at distance. You nailed that one. The form is good for distance shooting...

I'd run that one - great job!

You, my man, have zero need for any alter ego. There's enough alter ego caged inside of you, for 20 motherfuckers...

Hit that thing with the hairdryer again, and it'll firm up. Should be okay to fire, but it might take some time to get the "tack" out of it. Once it's tack-free, it's game on...

Think it's gonna be dry enough to shoot this weekend? Will it make it? You might wind up with a brown cheek - but it would be worth it...

The Gorge at George is something everyone should experience in their life. What a badass venue...

WHITE Oak Armament, you mean?... That second statement, about the ELDs, is BS. Complete BS. 2657fps is the chrono data that you've shot from these 140gr S&B 6.5C loads, yourself? Same lot number through the chrono at 300' MSL, that you just shot at 1600' MSL? That's not even enough altitude difference to make a difference, honestly. That altitude difference will be very, very minor in muzzle velocity.

What's their chrono velocity that you're seeing?

Who is Oak Standard? Rifle gas in a 22" barrel is already more dwell time, so your pressures are already up. Only projectiles I run in my .260 Rem are Hornady 147 ELD-Ms, and it doesn't eat tips.

The threaded SS pin that is used for the bolt catch is not 4-40. Only the takedown pin setup is 4-40. You can do this (for the takedown pin modification) on any AR lower receiver, small or large frame, doesn't matter if the takedown setup goes in from the back, or from the grip area (only on some .308ARs). I use 6-32 as well for this, because 4-40 set screws aren't always easier to find in local hardware stores, but the 6-32 are everywhere. There's a write-up that's about 10 years old on this mod, somewhere on this site. If you have the 4-40 set screws, you just run a tap in the hole that's already there. If you can't find 4-40s, and you do the 6-32 setup, you need to run a hand-turned drill bit through it first, before you cut the 6-32 threads. On some (all AR15s), you have to cut down the spring length. On .308ARs that go in from the bottom, you have to cut down the spring length. On .308ARs that go in from the back (like an AR15), you need to come up with a spacer, and you DO NOT cut down the spring.

I've only seen that happen on 6.5mm loads when the loads are hot. I've been through it building my .260 Rem loads. Run your cartridges through a chrono, and see where those hot-ass bastards are at. What gas system are you running on that 22" barrel?

Sure will. They were already 638hp on that supercharged LS9 setup, a few years ago.

Cliff's words are right on the money. Out to 400 yards, there is very little difference that barrel length will make, on the .308 Win cartridge. 500 is a little different for shorter-over-longer barrels, using the same load. You start to see the real differences in shorter-over-longer barrels at 600 and beyond. A month or so ago, I took the 13.5" gun out to 400 yards, with just the red dot, just to make sure I still knew the hold overs. Details of the results are in here:

I knew you'd eventually find that hidden gem, brother...

That would be an easy answer, but I asked you something else. Never got an answer from you about this: ^^^

Dirty gun. Needed to be cleaned. That's my take-away, but what am I missing?

With a 6.5 Creedmoor, you can crush 500 yards with a 16" barrel. I have a 20" barrel on my .260 Remington build (the theoretical twin that 6.5 Creedmoor came from), and my handload is supersonic to 1500 yards. So far, it's laser accurate at 845 yards, repeatable, and I've had it at 1000 and 1100 yards very, very effectively. If 500 yards is the ultimate goal, you don't need 22 or 24 inches of barrel to lug around. Are you hunting 500 yards, or punching paper and banging steel at 500 yards?