98Z5V

Awesome hunting ammo, from a bolt gun. Anything with a leaded soft tip is a hazard in a semi-auto with feedramps and bolt lugs like an AR. Switch ammo and try something different.

We're here for you - make no mistake about that. Fret it not, brother.

I've done my trek up giant-ass Nisqually 110-foot pines, to recover parachutes. About 1/2 a dozen times. Fuk that. You run a Drop Zone and have an idiot that can't steer a steerable parachute - land in a tree off the drop zone... You call a helicopter to extract his dumb ass from the tree - and the parachute stays there, WAY up in the tree. As the guy running the Drop Zone (DZSO), YOU are signed for all the gear, including that parachute, that is WAY UP THERE, in that tree. Turns into a "Statement of Charges" in the long run. Hell no, not on MY watch. I go back out there and get that parachute outta that fucking tree. Close drop zone, issue numerous reports (Jumper off DZ, eqmt left on DZ, etc). Safety reports out the ass - because some dummy can't fly. So, next day, hit up the Commo dudes and sign out their pole-climbing spikes, chainsaw, harness, and two sets of straps - set one small, and the other one big. Go back out to the DZ, easy to find that parachute blowing in the wind, 100+ feet up there in that bigass tree... Strap on the spikes, size up that large strap to fit around that bigass trunk, tie off your chainsaw on a 6ft tether to the belt - and start climbing. You "Q-Tip" that tree - cut off anything on your way, on the way up. Once you hit the point where the big strap is too loose - you setup and transition to the short strap - and keep going until you get to the parachute. You'll get that fucker out of that tree, one way or the other. I'm not paying for a parachute... I only had one try to take me out - I got the parachute free, and that fucker was crashing down quick-like - and wrapped around me, tied to that tree. It turned me upside down, and the only thing keeping me from skidding down that barked-up bitch and dying- was sling tension. That short strap locked up against the tree and kept me up there. I cut the FUK out of that parachute to get it off me, upside down, 100 feet up. Didn't really matter how many pieces I brought it back in - as long as I brought it back. I went up after one of them that had to be 130 feet up there - and said "Hell no..." I came back down, and cut the tree down. When it was coming down, the parachute got stuck in ANOTHER tree on the way down, and stopped that shenanigan from happening. I cut the OTHER tree down. Never once did I ever leave a parachute out there - no matter HOW DUMB the jumper was... I will NOT disclose the location of claimed shananigans, because cutting down trees was strictly verboten. Q-Tipping them was never mentioned in ANY Range Regulations, and I never had ANY problem doing that business. That one fucker, though... I wasn't leaving it out there, no way, no how...

Pics of what you have (rifle config), and what you bought -will be invaluable here...

Wilson Combat produces them, and they make great, accurate barrels. https://shopwilsoncombat.com/6mm-Creedmoor/products/1007/ However, use Armalite AR-10 gas tubes, and be ready to drill up the gas port diameter, possibly. My .338 Federal was dead-on the money, in gas port size. I might be drilling up my .260 Rem barrel. Both needed Armalite AR-10 gas tubes. Other examples of WC barrels here needed the same, for gas tubes, every single time - some of those other calibers might need gas port work. We'll see how they shake out, over time.

I could get further into this - in using AR15 gas tubes in a .308 AR, and the bend being incorrect, but it's a pain in the ass. Basically, the bend isn't correct, using an AR15 gas tube on a .308AR. I posted pics of this awhile ago. Anytime you're using an AR15 gas tube on a .308AR, you're making a compromise. It's a height-over-bore thing.

Completely depends on their behavior - he has enough of his own wild-asses to corral...

YOu cannot go wrong with Barnes bullets. Since they are all copper (some tipped, somenot), you have to be careful loading them. Copper is lighter than lead, so a lighter copper projectile can sometimes be longer than a combo lead.copper projo. Let me get into this a little here... When we usually talk about "heavy bullets" - what we're really talking about is longer bullets. You load a projectile, determine a twist, etc, based on weight, right? Usually, yeah, but in the case of composites or solids, the answer is NO. You really load a projo based on length of the projo. Where you usually see this is "heavier is longer." Since you're constrained to a bore diameter, you can't go bigger. To go "heavier" means you go longer on the projo - in most cases, with similar projo construction (lead, copper jacket, boat-tail, open-tipped, whatever combo of features). Heavier is longer. Not the case with solid copper. For example, I give you the 5.56 analogy - here's a 70-grain Barnes TSX in .224" diameter, compared to a Sierra MatchKing 77-grain "heavy.": You load that Barnes 70 TSX with the common load values that you would load a Sierra 77 SMK with. That 70-grain projo is longer than a 77-grain SMK... As far as expansion, the Barnes TSX and TTSX line expand in an equal manner as the SMK/TMK.GameKing line (excellent expansion), but they commonly retain MORE weight, when recovered. The solid coppers retain more weight. That in itself makes them a superior hunting projectile, and it's what makes them so successful/deadly on game. You load them right, and you've just made a superior hunting machine out of your gun. I load enough of them in various calibers, so I bought the Barnes Load Manual for reference, just for these projectiles.

That would be plenty. I'm not sure what the resolution is on mine, but I'll try to find out. EDIT - Couldn't find any data on resolution, except for one review for a Competition Electronics Pocket Pro II timer, which "measures near 1 ms..." Great info on specs in this article/review on it: https://www.usacarry.com/pocket-pro-2-shot-timer-review/

THE MACHINE!!!

I read about the 1680, which is what I use for 300BLK loads. It really looks like any powder that suitable for 300BLK will work in the Yeti - just heavier loads (which is kinda scary). I'm alright with experimenting with this one...

I usually catch it when I do that, and laugh about the 390-second shot string we just logged... Then I turn it off, because the other firing is still going on. I have come back to it much later, and it's sitting on the table, powered down from inactivity. It clears all shot strings when it's turned off (or goes off), so I never know how long it ran before it ran out of things to record and shut down due to inactivity.

Your number is off, making it appear even worse. 12.125" would be 12 1/8". It's not 12 1/8" long - it's 12 1/16" long. 12.0625"...

You have a barrel that has a gas port drilled in it, in a position that the barrel maker thinks is okay for both types of gas tubes. Your gas port is in your barrel in a "compromise position." You are correct that the Armalite AR-10 Carbine will extend into the cam pin cutout just slightly more than half way. If does not interfere with the gas key on the carrier, and will not bottom out in the gas key. Your other choice is a custom-lengthed gas tube from White Oak Armament. Thank your barrel maker for following the brilliant idea of a gas port location that is not DPMS-based, and not Armalite-based. They're the ones that put you in this situation.

Ah, valid observation - and correct. If we ran the timer on a course of fire, and just set the timer on the table afterwards, it would keep going and recording shots, as long as it has something to record. If people continued to shoot, all day long, it would have one LONG shot string recorded. It times out after that last shot recorded, and shuts itself off, if there are no more sounds to log. If the shooting never stops, it lists a big shot string.

12 1/16".

I'm dyin' over here, over that one!!! I don't have to set it to record - just hit the GO button, and it's recording time from the beep, either immediate beep, or preset for a delay - it starts counting time right then, once the beep goes off. It never gets any adjustment, and it doesn't have any adjustment capability in it, besides how you set it to run for you, with presets. I've honestly never tried the shot timer with a suppressed rifle - but I will in March, at the Spring Shoot. Feedback will hit this thread, with videos. I'll shoot anything, any caliber with the shot timer, if I want to work on that particular gun. I've shot the 45-70 lever gun with the shot timer, so I could see how fast (SLOW) I was with running the lever, and getting the next round on target. Pistols, rifles, run-n-gun courses of fire, pistol multi target courses of fire, whatever. I've run the shot timer on the 450 yard target and the Mk12 Mod 1, to see how long it takes me to get a 20-rd mag into the target, and check my time between shots. I can tell when my Natural Point of Aim is off, by the times - I'll rock the hell out of that target once my NPOA is set, 20 round on steel at 450, no misses, much less than 20 seconds. If I'm off with my NPOA, I have to muscle it a few times, and I go over 20 seconds. Next time I set the 450 up, I'll run a solid time on it - and snatch a video. For an accurate caliber count, I'd have to say it's measured .22LR, 9mm, .40, .45ACP, .45 Long Colt, 5.56, .308 Win, .338 Fed, and 45-70. We might have run the timer against the .458 SOCOM a few years ago, when guys were using it to make a giant fireball at night - but I'm not sure. Shot timers have a million uses, from pistol work to precision, distance work. You just gave me an idea that we'll try out at the Spring Shoot - timer goes off, THEN you get down behind your distance gun and see how long it takes to make your first hit on the 845 yard target...

Looking forward to seeing more about this rifle - from (only one other) previous person here, it looks like they're built on Matrix receivers. We've got Matrix covered in spades. Welcome...

That's the scariest thing that you discover, once you start using a shot timer, no joke. As SOON as you start making improvements that you can see (right there, on the timer display), you just get better and better - and realize that you sucked before... I've been using one since 2011 or 2012. It'san invaluable training tool, if you are intent on "training to improve." You simply cannot do it, without one. I use this video often, as a demonstration of timer use - keep in mind, this is "slow motion" draw strokes...

Haha! That's incredible!!! I'd say that the enclosure should be - whatever you are planning for the enclosure! I'll take the plastic box and duct tape, man!

Those things run like a CHAMP, brother!!!

This project is remarkable, beginning to now. I love stuff like this...

WAY longer than a .308AR set of receivers - that's the .338 Lapua Magnum AR - and the frame set is the host for the 500 Blackout. If you think that .308AR receivers are about 30% larger than AR15 receivers - the .338LM receivers are another 30% larger than the 308 stuff.

Previously, they were Monmouth Reloading - and they kicked ass at what they did. They still do kick ass - they just offer more now, with the addition of hard parts as well as reloading supplies. They're a damn great company, brother.

I'M CRYIN' over here now...