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Oh SHIIT! I figured out what THIS is about!...

After I publicly stated that, some motherfucker here sent me a completely anonymous bag of 10 gas tube roll pins, too. I went fucking crazy. Another time, I received an anonymous bag of 6 MagPul aluminum trigger guards. The evil here cannot be understated. There are some bad-intentioned people lurking these boards, and they're out to harm your credit, or wallet. You need to watch out, and I mean that. I, myself, have learned to "pay it forward," and I might send something to you - for payback against my past "anonymous" transgressors. You need to understand now, it's not personal. I mean no harm. I will label the package with Dirk's name, though...

Fucking gas tube roll pins got me on that, a LONG time ago. You are forewarned. Right now. A spare gas tube roll pin ended up as a brand new rifle. I kid you not. You have the sickness...

Just measure with calipers on this one - the .260 - Lyman doesn't have anything like that for this one. Yep, it's a mini-lathe, of sorts, while supporting the inner diameter at the same time. That expander die they have - that's different from the regular expander die - you have to set that thing at a certain depth, in order to create a "ring" to machine through, to make the brass right. It's way more complicated than I thought, until I talked to them on the phone. After talking to them, it's not complicated at all - with the right tools. I bought everything they said I needed, and I didn't buy any of the extras (an ergonomic hand-hold tool, etc.). This is the first case I've had to neck down... from .308 brass. if I was necking UP 243 win brass, it wouldn't be an issue. I just have a mad base of 308 Hornady Match brass that I've accumulated.

No, we didn't.We helped you make one LIGHTASS BUILD, brother. Ground Truth. I know it hurts, to hear that, but it is what it is... Remember... YOU asked for that...

All I did was say, "You wanna shoot this one, brother?... Just hold 3 mils on that target at 500, and you're there... "

What a fuqr...

Bipod $$ sent, brother.

Lemme know - I'm sure it'll be posted. I'm interested in this platform - thanks to you... Yes, the M4E1 sets are perfect - I love them.

CR, I've got a handful of the PA 4~14 FFP models, and none of them exhibit what you're concerned about. I've got 2 of the ACSS HUD DMR 308 scopes, one on a Rem 700 AAC-SD bolt gun, and it's been on there the longest, through thousands of rounds. The other one is on a Mk12 Mod 1 gun, in 5.56. ***Note - you use the ACSS HUD DMR 308 scope on a 5.56gun that only shoot heavies - 75 or 77gr loads. Their trajectory is very close to .308 Win heavies, that this scope was designed for. You only use the specific ACSS HUD DMR 5.56 scope on a gun that is shooting lighter projectiles, than the 5.56 heavies. I have 2 or 3 of the mildot 4~14s - I know one is on the 25/45 Sharps, and one is on the heavy Grendel SPR-ish gun. I think I have another one mounted on something else. I mounted up the ARC-2 MOA version on Matt's Grendel Mk12 Mod 1 gun, and shot the piss out of it. They're all good, zero issues at distances out to 900 yards last fall, and the typical max distance that they shoot at is 845 yards. They all work great. I have 2 or 3 of the 1~6PA scopes, too, in SFP, and have never had an issue from any of them. There's a Griffin Mil 1~6 version on the 18" Light Grendel, a .308 BDC version on a 16" 308, and I'm pretty sure I have a mil-dot version on the .338 Fed gun. I can't even count how many of the mini red dots I have on other guns, including one on the 45/70. I only put it on there to see how long it would take to kill the red dot - and it's not dead yet. I think I did that in December 2014. If you have an issue with one of their scopes, it's gonna be within the warranty period - on the one's that don't have a lifetime warranty. They willnot give you any grief whatsoever in taking it back and giving you a new one.

Not for this guy - it's been about a year ago that someone needed to turn their receiver extension in another turn... But, it has come up in the past, and it's something I always watch for and ask for pics of - just to see...

No way, no how, ever, ever, ever. Don't even try it, or think about it. This is the difference you're looking at, by trying that:

You already showed me you BAR. 4 or 5 years ago, your first trip down here. You forgot about that, didn't you. I know, we drank alot that night...

My reference for this is only on .260 Remington, as it's the only load that I have that needs it. I'm necking down Hornady .308 Win Match brass to a smaller caliber, and confining that brass dimension (neck diameter of .308 Win brass) to a smaller outside diameter, overall, through the .260 sizing die - that's all it takes to make .260 brass from .308 Win brass - or so one should think. There's no chopping and chamfering - even though I VLD chamfer all of them, inner and outer. It's not like cutting down 5.56 brass for 300BLK case manufacture. By doing that, I've increased the wall thickness at the neck - same amount of brass, displacing a smaller diameter, and internal is sized by the sizer die, last, as it comes out of the sizer die - that means increased outer diameter, in some instances. Depends on the brass, really. I'm using the best brass I can for this, to make my own cases - and when I run them through the neck turner device - they don't always have the same trim marks. That's the byproduct of downsizing extremely accurate brass for another caliber. If it makes a difference on Hornady .308 Win match brass, downsized to .260 caliber, it would have a huge difference on range-trash 7.62 pickups, out there. I wasn't aware of it initially, until I had problems chambering some of my early .260 brass conversions. Some chambered, some didn't. All from the same once-fired Hornady .308 Match brass. I run the regular Hornady Match brass through the .260 Rem RCBS sizer/deprimer die. I then switch dies to the KM sizer die - this is important, for the internal dimensions for cutting the necks down. I then lock it into the KM tool, and turn down the necks. The cutting tool both supports the internal support for turning the necks, and turns the external diameter to what you need to not stick the round in the chamber. You get to adjust this dimension, to what you need, with this tool. When you neck UP brass, this is almost never a concern - you're turning the same amount of material into a larger diameter - the neck thickness will be fine, thinner,actually. This is the first caliber I've turned down, with exceptional quality brass - and it caught me a few times. I invested in the right tool immediately.

Range estimation is #1, Will. That's the biggest downfall of all distance shooters. Wind is #2. You have to know how far away the target is, first, then you have to account for the wind at that distance.

You did the right thing, man. @survivalshop - just wanted you to see this accounting of the situation, brother.

Will, I have a few observations about that. #1. That's a 5.56 gas piston Adams Arms system, and it's a 16" barreled carbine gas system. It's not a DI system. #2. .308 Win recoil is radically different than 5.56 recoil. #3. Just because it works well on a 5.56 gas piston 16" carbine gas system, doesn't means it's gonna give you the same performance from a "whatever barrel and gas system" gun in .308 Win. But it might be similar, on some respects. Depends on how the company "adapted" it to .308 Win. #4. I have a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle that's about 6 or 7 years old now - I'd have to look to make sure. It's a 16" barreled .308 Win bolt action, and it comes with a SHIITY Ruger "flash hider" that's about worthless. When I first shot that thing, I thought the fillings in my teeth were gonna fall out. It SUCKED that bad. I wanted to throw the rifle in a dumpster, and light it on fire. I changed the muzzle device to a Spike's Tactical Dynacomp, and it completely changed the felt recoil to the shooter. And I decided to keep it, and not throw it away and light it on fire. #5. Some chart or device on a 5.56 gas piston gun isn't always gonna perform the same way on a (whateverbarrel, whatevergassystem) .308 AR. It just won't be the same. It might be close, but it's not gonna be identical, every time. #6. .308 muzzle devices were tested here, on this board, and the videos are out there. That was a NorCal member here, and it was quite the exhaustive test. It's worth looking into. Bottom line - linking a chart on 5.56 stuff isn't gonna directly cross over to .308 stuff. You're only talking apples and oranges, but it's different. Some people that come on here like to compare apples to hammers, and they're so far off it's not even funny. This isn't one of those cases - but it's just not the same.

^^^ SEE?!!? See those marks on the ears of your lower? That's damn sure not 0.250" of impact right there. 0.250"worth if impact would have been WAY WORSE on your lower, for sure. You seeing this @survivalshop? That receiver extension if flared at the bottom, too, to better hold the buffer retainer - that's why we don't measure at the bottom of the receiver extension, and only at the top... There's also no way that receiver extension can go in another turn, either - which has been a problem in the past - one more turn, into the proper position, can stop impact damage - that's not the case here. I've documented cases of it before.

^^^ This right here is why I recommend real Armalite AR-10 Carbine recoil system parts. What you stated just proved my point for me, brother. You always measure a receiver extension at the top of the receiver extension - so if there is a flare at the bottom to help retain the buffer retainer, that doesn't count for internal depth. I've stated this exact thing before here, numerous times. 1/4" is 0.250" - if a receiver extension is 1/4" too long, I can guarantee you that the BCG will hit the ears on the lower receiver, and start tearing up parts.

With consistent ammo, the two biggest reasons to miss a target at distance on a flat range is: #1. Range Estimation - you gotta get that right, first... #2. Wind - gotta be able to call the wind, and either adjust for it or hold for it... When you're not on a flat range, and shooting angles, it's all about the cosine - angle determination. Anything 5 degrees and under, you don't even calculate - it doesn't matter, it's so small. Even up to 15 degrees, it's a very small difference, depending on the distance. Out to 300 yards, 15 degrees, it almost doesn't matter unless the target is tiny. That would be #3. Everything else is up to the loose nut behind the trigger...

You can see the difference, downrange, at distance. It shows up pretty clearly on the steel, once you get out and look at them. The predictability is the greatest part. That's the whole reason I load my own, brother.

Slash only uses AR-10 recoil springs in the DPMS and Armalite guns. He uses Wolf XP springs in the AR15 heavies, and Armalite springs in the regular AR15s. That's it. RRA is different, like the whole platform. Any reference you see on the Armalite and DPMS based springs in that chart, for a .308AR, is the Armalite EA1095 spring.

Best off-the-shelf ammo for these things is the Hornady Black, which is a 123 grain ELD-M projectile. Get a case of that, and you're set. Which ever scope you go with, I'll whip up a drop chart for you in either mils or MOA for that ammo and your gun specs. I duplicated that loading for my own reloading, at a tiny bit more muzzle velocity, and it's excellent. I don't have to worry about changes at distance, switching between to the two loads, it's that close. You'll like that ammo. I'm not going to edit this one, just because.

^^^ That's gonna get you in trouble, mister. Editing is BAD. Not editing is GOOD.