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uncertainly about once fired L.C. Brass


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Posted

I am new to reloading. I have loaded new .40 cal brass without an issue. I do not like the looks of the few pieces of once fired L.C. brass I have primed. I was hoping someone could post a picture of theirs so I can compare. I have the Dillon swagging tool, the Lyman prep machine and hand tools. In the mean time I will surf the net. Thanks    P.S. Worst case scenario  I could load and test fire but I do not think that is a good idea at this point.    If I do, for those with a sense of humor, I will post the results, if I am capable. :banana:   and for those who do not please disregard the test firing sentence

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Posted

 I saw some pictures on American reloader and it looks like after they have been de crimped they have also been chamfered. Si or No? Someone take pity on a poor soul and reply. :'(

Posted

Never mind. I saw some photos under the high pressure thread. It looks like I need to de burr after removing the crimp. Sorry to have wasted your time in reading this crap. :auto: me.

Posted

I heard them talk about using a deburring tool to cut out the crimp on the reloaders podcast but It doesn't sound right to me. I have a RCBS swage tool for removing the crimp, used it very little so far but it worked.

What doesn't look right? pics maybe

Posted

I heard them talk about using a deburring tool to cut out the crimp on the reloaders podcast but It doesn't sound right to me. I have a RCBS swage tool for removing the crimp, used it very little so far but it worked.

What doesn't look right? pics maybe

I will post  some photos  in the Morning. I  also have the RCBS swage tool  but have not used it as I bought the dillion and used it. Do you just swage and then prime? Other than it not looking the same as the new starline I primed for the .40 I am not sure. <dontknow>

Posted

Darb you have a Dillon tool ! That is the cream of the crop !

I sound like a broken record... Please read several threads in the reloading section about case preporation. World of information there. Must trim case and Inside and Outside Champfer your Brass before loading ... If you DID NOT ,PULL the Promo's OUT and DO IT RIGHT !!

98 , SS and myself have many posts of processing brass. Read , Read ,Read !

Posted (edited)

I will post  some photos  in the Morning. I  also have the RCBS swage tool  but have not used it as I bought the dillion and used it. Do you just swage and then prime? Other than it not looking the same as the new starline I primed for the .40 I am not sure. <dontknow>

 

Swage then prime. Do you have a manual? Reading the manual is a must, there are several out there that are good.

Edited by jtallen83
Posted

You mention reloading .40 cal, but don't mention the caliber of the LC brass in question, so I am assuming this is 7.62x51 mil-surp brass. There should be no issue at all with 1x-fired LC brass. I've reloaded thousands of them with no problem. You have the best swager on the market, use it. Adjust the swaging bar, and prime one case at a time. When the primer goes in easily, you've adjusted the swager bar properly. Batch swage the rest of the cases. You'll get the hang of it.

 

And get a case gauge!

Posted

I better give a little background to SLOW down the bleeding from the Azz kicking. No  :binkybaby:  here. In Summary to all above (excluding the Higher Power): I am a beginner but this is not the beginning. I have 7 books which 3 are Load Data, Nosler, Speer and Lyman. Perhaps not the best of choice but seemed to be at the time of purchase ( 18 months ago). I HAVE been reading for the past 18 months, (the more I read, the more questions I have so the more I read.) There a distinct possibility that I am a slow reader. ^-^     I do have a decent collection of reloading equipment at my disposal. I have processed 1000 pcs and 750 pcs of 7.62x51 and .556   Lake City brass. Which included cleaning, ( Wet tumbling, Vibratory tumbler and Sonic cleaner). I have de-primed and resized (I did use case lube. Now that reading  paid off ^-^). I swagged,cleaned, uniformed primer pockets,  trimmed to length, champered inside & out, and brushed necks. Checked all casings with case gage. Ta Da Ta Da :banana:  I may have missed something in the above, if so hopefully due to old timers kicking in and not an actual step in the process. I know this must be redundant reading to those whom are shaking their heads, as it  is to me, but perhaps seeing it in writing will help me on my pathway to enlightenment. ::) I now will head out to the gunroom and get some photos of my failures at brass priming. I may as well at this point do my best to keep this thread alive.   I would like to thank all  of my readers for their continued support, without you I would not have spent the last 15 minutes of my life writing this boring  sh$t. <thumbsup>

Posted

  Ok what do you think is wrong with them ?

 

  Are the Primers seated slightly below the Base of the Cartridge ?

 

  When Swaging some material may not go back to look like its a uniform Primer Pocket , once shot , it should reform .

 

  Primers hard to seat ? If real hard & deforming the primer , your not Swaging properly . Normally they will be a felt resistance seating a swaged primer pocket , but it should not be too hard , a Commercial Case will be easy compared to a swaged, MilSpec crimped primer pocket .

 

  I have used a RCBS Reamer /Deburring tool to trim or uniform a crimped Primer Pocket , only in the extreme have I needed to do this .It doesn't take but a little twist of the inside case reaming part of the tool .

Posted

  Ok what do you think is wrong with them ?

 

  Are the Primers seated slightly below the Base of the Cartridge ?

 

  When Swaging some material may not go back to look like its a uniform Primer Pocket , once shot , it should reform .

 

  Primers hard to seat ? If real hard & deforming the primer , your not Swaging properly . Normally they will be a felt resistance seating a swaged primer pocket , but it should not be too hard , a Commercial Case will be easy compared to a swaged, MilSpec crimped primer pocket .

 

  I have used a RCBS Reamer /Deburring tool to trim or uniform a crimped Primer Pocket , only in the extreme have I needed to do this .It doesn't take but a little twist of the inside case reaming part of the tool .

Looks? just different from factory primed. they are set 2 1/2 thousands below base.  Some seem fine and some do not. I may try re-swaging and or de- burring. I will have to wait til tomorrow as I have not hooked up the AC yet, also my ceiling fan with light went out. What is a man to do? Thanks for the reply.

Posted

 Well de-burring did the trick just a small touch  de-burring  with the lyman prep sent, I finished 100pcs with out a glitch. I will hit it hard this next week so I can start some load development for the rifles. Thanks for all  the input as it is much appreciated. ^-^

Posted

I run the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager-2.  The ONLY brass I have to chamfer after running it through that die set is Federal .mil brass.  I HATE Federal .mil brass.  Every other brand of .mil brass I shoot does just FINE running through the swager in the press, but that Federal shiit has to be chamfered, too, after going through it. 

 

I don't even buy Federal .mil ammo anymore because of that.  The shiit still seems to find it's way into my brass bucket, and sometimes I'd rather throw it away than process it. 

Posted

FullSizeRender_zpsc2gbwbos.jpg                                       photos LC 5.56

Just an observation: it looks like your primers are seated unevenly. Did deburring take care of that? If not I have some other thoughts.

Posted

It may have and it may have not. The reason I say this: I would like to hear some and all thoughts. I am a sponge for knowledge. (nothing to do with sponge Bob square pants. ::)  Thanks for the reply.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

 

 

I don't even buy Federal .mil ammo anymore because of that.  The shiit still seems to find it's way into my brass bucket, and sometimes I'd rather throw it away than process it. 

Thats because I purposely shoot Federal ammo exclusively when we go to the desert so you pick it up and have to deal with the primer pockets ! LOL LMAO !

Posted

I have a box of LC brass that has different depths of primer pocket. Some standard primers seated fully extend out beyond the base of the case.

 Have you cleaned rthe Primer pockets out as part of the reloading process ? That is not a good condition to have , since a protruding Primer can be set off , just by seating it in the chamber .

Posted

 Have you cleaned rthe Primer pockets out as part of the reloading process ? That is not a good condition to have , since a protruding Primer can be set off , just by seating it in the chamber .

That condition is also a trick BATF has been known to use in order to determine if someone possesses an "illegal full-auto".

Posted (edited)

 Have you cleaned rthe Primer pockets out as part of the reloading process ? That is not a good condition to have , since a protruding Primer can be set off , just by seating it in the chamber .

had that happen with some 5.56 I had loaded by a "trusted" person.yes, yes, I violated the cardinal rule of " if you didn't reload it yourself, don't shoot it"  fortunately both me and the rifle survived, but it shook the hell out of me. Follow survivalshop's suggestion, and see if they seat properly and evenly. If not, there is either uneven material under the primer, or uneven pressure being exerted to seat it. 

Edited by Sisco
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 Have you cleaned rthe Primer pockets out as part of the reloading process ? That is not a good condition to have , since a protruding Primer can be set off , just by seating it in the chamber .

Yes. I considered trying to deepen the pockets uniformly but it's not worth the trouble.

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