Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I want to plan a build of two 223's. Which I am assuming will be identical.  We know nothing (very little) about building a weapon and are willing to be schooled in the proper selection of parts and  all tools involved.   I want a general discussion of each part and why I want to choose it, over the other. Where to start?

If this is not the proper place for this thread please move it.

 

Edited by DD_Raptor
Posted
5 hours ago, survivalshop said:

   What type ?     Carbine , SBR, Match etc .

Not sure will have to research.

2 hours ago, jtallen83 said:

Start with some reading here, the basics of building a 308AR and an AR-15 are very similar;

https://308ar.com/

I didn't even know that page existed. LOL Thanks!  Will read those articles.

Posted

I would suggest that you first decide what you want the rifles to be used for, hunting, target, SHTF, etc.  Then you can move to some basic decisions.  I have built 5, 2 5.56 rifles, 1 ar308, a 6.5 Grendel (on a 5.56 receiver set) and a 6.5 Creedmore (on an AR308 receiver set).  The Grendel is very lightweight and will be used for hunting, as is the ar308 and possibly the Creedmore.  The two 5.56s are for SHTF scenarios (one trunk one home).  But keep in mind they are like potato chips, you can't eat (have) just one!

Posted

I want a carbine 16" maybe 18" barrel to be used for some hunting mainly target but could also be used for SHTF. Maybe shoot both 223 or 5.56 rounds. Not to heavy like my 308.

Posted
1 hour ago, survivalshop said:

   300 Blackout , 16" light wt. bbl. 

Yea if I was gonna build two, one would be a .556 the other 300 black out. That'll be my next plan after I get this x39 done

Posted

Agree on the 300 Blackout.  It was a tough choice but I went with the 6.5 Grendel, at least first, but I do have some parts laying around.......

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies guys. 300 blackout,(thinking it was a black rain) man I saw one of those a gun show a few months with a twisted barrel. Man I went nuts over it, until I saw what they were asking fir it. LOL

Right now one build is for me the other is for my SNL. I assume though the only difference would be the 300 barrel and the lower the same so lets talk lowers right now.

My question are Brand, stripped vs complete.

Edited by DD_Raptor
Posted
47 minutes ago, DD_Raptor said:

Thanks for the replies guys. 300 blackout,(thinking it was a black rain) man I saw one of those a gun show a few months with a twisted barrel. Man I went nuts over it, until I saw what they were asking fir it. LOL

Right now one build is for me the other is for my SNL. I assume though the only difference would be the 300 barrel and the lower the same so lets talk lowers right now.

My question are Brand, stripped vs complete.

If your gonna build you might as well go stripped, and there are a ton of good companies out there. I just went with MWI because they're close to home

Posted (edited)
56 minutes ago, DD_Raptor said:

Thanks for the replies guys. 300 blackout,(thinking it was a black rain) man I saw one of those a gun show a few months with a twisted barrel. Man I went nuts over it, until I saw what they were asking fir it. LOL

Right now one build is for me the other is for my SNL. I assume though the only difference would be the 300 barrel and the lower the same so lets talk lowers right now.

My question are Brand, stripped vs complete.

     The 300BLK is should be no more expensive then an 5.56/.223 , its just a different Barrel, all other components are AR 15 , their is a section around here on just 300BLK . My 300BLK is the lightest rifle I have & is pure pleasure to shoot & reload for . I like cutting & forming my own brass , kinda cool . Its the only non std. caliber I own .

  I built mine on a Tactical Machining Lower & their AR 15 Upper receiver , but anyones AR 15 Receiver set will work . A Multi Cal Lower is good because of no Cal. designation , I picked a TM because its designated 300BLK Lower receiver . 
 
  As said above , many good Receivers out there .

Edited by survivalshop
Posted

Go with a stripped set, Aero Precision or any other brand you can get your hand on. Buy 2 or 3 uppers and lowers NOW ! And buy what is in stock ,avoid the term B/O....

Posted
2 minutes ago, MikedaddyH said:

Go with a stripped set, Aero Precision or any other brand you can get your hand on. Buy 2 or 3 uppers and lowers NOW ! And buy what is in stock ,avoid the term B/O....

Very good advice B/O should have (no hope) next to it

Posted

I went to the LGS today and bought an FDE Andersen set after seeing all the out of stock listings on the internet, it's going to be a 300BO after I recover from the silencer shopping spree. 

Posted
7 hours ago, DD_Raptor said:

I noticed all of the out out stock listings also.  Here comes a big price jump.  I may have to wait if it does.

just gotta know where to look....whatcha need?      Wash

Posted

Well we're talking stripped lowers for the builds I am planning. 223/5.56. But there are so many brands, prices (which most are out of stock) it's hard to know what to choose. Well at least for me any ways.

I did find a BRO Spec 15 stripped lower for ~ $119. Is that good, bad, ok? Do I need an BRO Spec 15 upper? See theses are things I do know in my newness to the sport.

Again just planning stage.

Posted

Saw a comparison article in Shotgun News on forged stripped lowers last year. Prices ranged from $70 to over $200. PSA and Anderson were the least expensive and scored at the top for tight tolerances and finish. Unless you need billet or proprietary ambi stuff either of those would serve you well.

Posted (edited)

 

1 hour ago, unforgiven said:

Aero Precision is the way to go brother. M5 for .308.:cool:

24 minutes ago, jtallen83 said:

Saw a comparison article in Shotgun News on forged stripped lowers last year. Prices ranged from $70 to over $200. PSA and Anderson were the least expensive and scored at the top for tight tolerances and finish. Unless you need billet or proprietary ambi stuff either of those would serve you well.

I like the Aero Freedom lower:thumbup:

Don't need AMBI. But can you tell me why I should choose billet over cast, or vise versa, which I think your referring to.

Edited by DD_Raptor
Posted
16 minutes ago, DD_Raptor said:

 

I like the Aero Freedom lower:thumbup:

Don't need AMBI. But can you tell me why I should choose billet over cast, or vise versa, which I think your referring to.

There's a post in the area from me asking the same question maybe Jan-feb of 15 I went with billet IIRC 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...