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Windham Weaponry AR10 Range Report - First trip


MarkTheNewf

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I replaced the trigger with a Geissele 2 Stage (G2S)  trigger (both stages are 2.5 pounds according to Geissele) and added a Magpul STR stock.  The bipod is an Atlas, and the scope is a Leopold VX-r 3-9x40 scope in an American Defense recon QD mount.  Magpul MBUIS fore and aft.  Ran about 120 rounds down the pipe today as I was sighting in and getting things worn in.  I'm using good 'ol de-milled German NATO MEN 147 grain ammo, which has proven to be pretty damned good in everything I've run it through (FAL, M1A, Rem700). 

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It took about 40 rounds for me to get used to it all, but I did have a helluva time trying to get the irons sighted in.  I started at 15 yards, then went to 25, then to 100.  In all cases, the elevation adjusted fine, but the windage is waaaayyyy over to the left and I can't figure out why. (see pic).  Damned peculiar.

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Anyways, after all the farting around, I was able to grab a few pics of my targets for future reference.

100 yard sigting in.  FWIW, the actual first 3 shots weren't even on paper until I got it adjusted correctly, after which I was able to hold "my typical" 1.5 to 2.0 MOA shooting.  I'd like to refine change this to about 2" over the bulls eye in order to be closer to a 200 yard zero.

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Next up was the scope at 100 yards.  Shots 1 and 1a were initial  rough adjustments.  2 and 3 got me close.  Groups 4 and 5 are the final set at which point I wanted to do a multi-shot set, which is up at the top right.  I thought I had 5 rounds left, but actually only had 4, and one I flinched!  DAMMIT!  Either way, it's looking to be at least MOA with this MILSURP goodness!

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At this point, the wind is getting a bit blustery, so no better time to go to 200 yards, right?  Anyways, I decided to try it and to also see if there was much of a change with and without the suppressor on there.  Using the scope, and 5 shots with and without the suppressor.  Looks like there a slight change of point of impact (lower and to the left) and I did pull one (unsuppressed).  That being said, they're still grouping fine for MILSURP ammo and a mediocre shooter.

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And since I"m at it and had 3 rounds left, let's pop them off with the irons.  Not bad for an oldish fart.

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So my initial impressions is that the rifle is a keeper.  I'll be curious to see how it does with some quality ammo, including some hand loads.

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Edited by MarkTheNewf
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11 hours ago, sketch said:

nice shootin! what can are you running? the groups look to be tighter with the can at 200.. 

It's a SilCo Omega.  It's a pretty nice can.  It's a newer design so it's pretty quiet and is shorter than most 30-cal ones I've been around.

Not sure if it's the can or me making the better groups!  I'm pleased with it so far, so now it's just a matter of trigger time to find my rhythm with it.  The trigger will take a bit of getting used to since it's got equal first and second stage pulls.  It's nice, but I'm kinda used to a heavier second stage.

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3 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Rear sight too far to the left, during adjustment?  The rail is crooked.  You can see it in this pic.  That'll do it.

Not sure if that's the case, though.  It may be just a visual trick with my crappy cell phone camera.  FWIW  I thought I tried a full-length scope mount that spanned the reciever and handrail without issue.  I'll go back and have a second look.  Not sure if I still have the scope mount to span it again.  Not sure how I would fix that other than releasing the hand guard, re-aligning it with something like that scope mount, and then tightening it up?

Edited by MarkTheNewf
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5 hours ago, sketch said:

 

5 hours ago, unforgiven said:

That is a cool tool brother.:thumbup:

 Its the tool I use to install Rails or Railed HG's . I can not tell if the rail to rail alignment is off ,for sight to the left with the photo's available . 

  Not unusal to have a rear sight like that , depends on many factors , Ammo, Cheek weld , Sights , Barrel , Muzzle device or Suppressor attachment & the Shooter .

 I think its normal for a Suppressor to shoot better groups .

 

  

Edited by survivalshop
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I can see that the alignment is off in the pic.  The handguard is twisted counterclockwise from the upper, which would cause the rear sight to need more left adjustment.  It might be the cellphone pic, but that's what the pic is showing me...

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3 hours ago, COBrien said:

I just read the reviews on the Brownell's tool. Ouch.

Another option would be to pick up a Picatinny rail vise block. Of course, that will require using a bench vise. Or some modifications with a drill...

  I have had no issues & have done doz's of HG's & Add on Rails , sometimes you just cant pay attention to reviews .I did notice it is a little tight on some Upper Receiver Rails , but a little Lube  or grease & its has no problem .  

  You can use a Good size Scope Ring between the two Rails to hold alignment when attaching the HG .

Edited by survivalshop
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20 hours ago, survivalshop said:

  I have had no issues & have done doz's of HG's & Add on Rails , sometimes you just cant pay attention to reviews .I did notice it is a little tight on some Upper Receiver Rails , but a little Lube  or grease & its has no problem .  

  You can use a Good size Scope Ring between the two Rails to hold alignment when attaching the HG .

I suppose a person could chamfer/bevel the sharp edges (assuming that's what everyone on Brownell's is complaining about) and lube 'er up good.

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5 minutes ago, COBrien said:

I suppose a person could chamfer/bevel the sharp edges (assuming that's what everyone on Brownell's is complaining about) and lube 'er up good.

 Its the Rail Spec's from one Upper Receiver to another , some it slides right on & some its a little tight , I believe its more the Coating on the Upper or who did it thats the issue , maybe some are thicker then others .

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23 hours ago, survivalshop said:

  I have had no issues & have done doz's of HG's & Add on Rails , sometimes you just cant pay attention to reviews .I did notice it is a little tight on some Upper Receiver Rails , but a little Lube  or grease & its has no problem .  

  You can use a Good size Scope Ring between the two Rails to hold alignment when attaching the HG .

Yeah, I think I've got a long base optic mount I can try.  I haven't looked at it, but I'm assuming that all I need to do is loosen all the screws at the receiver end, clamp on the optic, and then re-tighten.  Seem about right?  Any recommendations on torque or the use of some blue loctite or something?

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5 minutes ago, MarkTheNewf said:

Yeah, I think I've got a long base optic mount I can try.  I haven't looked at it, but I'm assuming that all I need to do is loosen all the screws at the receiver end, clamp on the optic, and then re-tighten.  Seem about right?  Any recommendations on torque or the use of some blue loctite or something?

     

 Depends on how far out the Screw holes & HG are , but it should work .

On the screw for the Hand Guard ? If you use Blue Loctite , use a very very small amount < like the head of a pin , there is Loctite for small screws , I think its Purple , I will have to look up the Number .

LOCTITE 222MS Low Strength, Small Screw, Mil-Spec Purple Threadlocker

(Known as LOCTITE 222MS Purple Threadlocker Low Strength/Small Screw MIL SPEC )

22231-50ml-HR-jpg-397923-300dpi-171H-171 
BuyNow
*some package sizes excluded

 

LOCTITE® 222MS™ Low Strength, Small Screw, Mil-Spec Purple Threadlocker is ideal for fastener diameters of 1/4" (6mm) and smaller. Its controlled lubricity allows for accurate clamp loads. Parts can be separated using hand tools.

Mil Spec: Mil-S-46163A Type II Grade M. NSF P1 Certified. Applications include adjustment screws, countersunk head screws, and set screws; on collargs, pulleys, tool holders and controllers. Also for low strength metals such as aluminum or brass.

Edited by survivalshop
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22 minutes ago, MarkTheNewf said:

Yeah, I think I've got a long base optic mount I can try.  I haven't looked at it, but I'm assuming that all I need to do is loosen all the screws at the receiver end, clamp on the optic, and then re-tighten.  Seem about right?  Any recommendations on torque or the use of some blue loctite or something?

i torque my shits two finger tight thats with a thumb at the bend in the allen and two finhers pulling.. around 20-30 inch pounds..but up to 80"# ive read no lock tight until final setting.

dont go over 15- 18 "# on your scope rings just for the on lookers thinking this is a scope mount thread..

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