Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Dedicated .22LR Upper -- Advice Needed


COBrien

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Since I don't currently have the money to continue buying parts just yet (pay day is next Tuesday...), I've been doing some thinking.

My original plan was to run a Doublestar ACE/AR UltraLite Entry buttstock (pistol buffer tube, clamp-on "buttstock", etc.). Then I got to thinking... The kids are eventually going to outgrow that entry-length setup. So I've now decided to run a mil-spec carbine buffer tube and a BAD LBS for the time being. Once they've outgrown that setup, I'll just remove the LBS and slide on a carbine buttstock. Added benefit -- that will end up being a touch lighter than the ACE.

I'm still on track at sub-5 lbs. per rifle, without resorting to exotic or polymer receivers...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 4/14/2019 at 4:10 PM, DNP said:

I almost ordered 2. I need to wait. Too many other wants. A dedicated 22 is on the list though. 

Ok. It’s off the list now. On to the next. 

 

This is one is for my oldest. He helped put a few pieces and we talked a lot about the parts. Trying to get the vocabulary and the working concepts down at least. 

E1A2D5A0-6EAB-4A77-84F8-DD4A2ADEFBE2.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Strike’s FDE is not quite FDE. Was hoping their own Handguard would match their stock. We’ll see how it shoots tomorrow night. Still need to finish a few parts up and tighten them down. 

16” dedicated barrel from Right to Bear...pretty sure its CMMG. The dedicated bolt was supposed to be R2B, but it’s CMMG too. Had to do a little dremel work to get the Strike HG onto the Taccom upper.  Put a reverse thread fake silencer on there for the thread guard. 

D09A1AD2-1242-405C-9392-E07D8E856149.jpeg

E467896B-7453-4B72-9328-4382EEB3DEC3.jpeg

02F31088-7233-4799-807A-7E4A057FB3A1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good lookin' build, DNP!

Also, I sold my Sportster last night. So I now have the funds to finish up my parts shopping...

Barrel & thread protector, handguard, BCG, MBT, mag adapter, mags, and sights coming up soon.

Now to figure out what to do with these raw lowers. On the one hand, my uppers and handguards are (will be...) anodized black. I could blast the lowers (once machined) and have them anodized, as well. Or I could have my buddy Cerakote all of the "major parts" in Carbon Black. I'm just not convinced Cerakote is going to wear as well as honest-to-God milspec anodizing. What do y'all think?



Shite, also... Beyer barrels are Cerakoted/Gunkoted/whatever the coating is. I'm torn between matte black and "stainless steel" for the coating. I love the aesthetic my CSASS has, with the NiB BCG and bead-blasted SS barrel...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, COBrien said:

I'm just not convinced Cerakote is going to wear as well as honest-to-God milspec anodizing. What do y'all think?

When done properly Cerakote is some tough stuff. I don’t know the actual scientific numbers to compare but I have seen a limestone rock get cracked in half and it just left a white dust on the weapon that wiped right off, couldn’t pick the spot out after. I would have no concerns either way you go, been thinking about that carbon black myself, I like that deep black look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After talking in depth to Cerakote. The hardness of Cerakote vs Hard coat anodizing places Cerakote exceptionally above. The only issue is how many coats are layered on the surface. You want at least 2 coats on small moving parts, and as many as 3 or 4 coats on the external parts. There’s a lot of places that try to save money by skimping on the paint (it’s not cheap paint). When they skimp on the coatings, it gives a bad reputation to Cerakote. 

The  product is proven. It’s the application that requires overwatch. If the quality is important for you, make sure you are using a Cerakote certified technician. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jtallen83 said:

When done properly Cerakote is some tough stuff. I don’t know the actual scientific numbers to compare but I have seen a limestone rock get cracked in half and it just left a white dust on the weapon that wiped right off, couldn’t pick the spot out after. I would have no concerns either way you go, been thinking about that carbon black myself, I like that deep black look.

My bad, I had a brief case of cranio-rectalasia...

What I meant was Graphite Black, but looking some more, I might be into Armor Black. Super flat, like chalkboard flat...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, COBrien said:

My bad, I had a brief case of cranio-rectalasia...

What I meant was Graphite Black, but looking some more, I might be into Armor Black. Super flat, like chalkboard flat...

:laffs:Sounded close enough to me I rolled with it. The elite line has a Blackout with what they call eggshell finish, looks interesting;

https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/E-100Q/blackout/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, COBrien said:

My bad, I had a brief case of cranio-rectalasia...

What I meant was Graphite Black, but looking some more, I might be into Armor Black. Super flat, like chalkboard flat...

I've done some Armor Black for Larry, on his wife's pistol.  It's damn nice.  On the bake-on Cerakote (H-Series), you control what it looks like, based on the amount of hardener you use when mixing it.  You can mix it super-flat, or shiny, depending on that.  On Cerakote C-Series, air-dry, you get what it is, but you pick it when you buy it.  You want flat?  They'll have it.  Bake on with the H-Series, and determine your own, that's my opinion.  H-Series is more abrasion resistant.  C-Series is more heat resistant. C-Series for barrels, suppressors, car headers, etc...  H-Series for everything else...

Edited by 98Z5V
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

16 hours ago, jtallen83 said:

:laffs:Sounded close enough to me I rolled with it. The elite line has a Blackout with what they call eggshell finish, looks interesting;

https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/E-100Q/blackout/

Oh, I like the look of that... Asking my Cerakote guy about E-Series now.

11 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

I've done some Armor Black for Larry, on his wife's pistol.  It's damn nice.  On the bake-on Cerakote (H-Series), you control what it looks like, based on the amount of hardener you use when mixing it.  You can mix it super-flat, or shiny, depending on that.  On Cerakote C-Series, air-dry, you get what it is, but you pick it when you buy it.  You want flat?  They'll have it.  Bake on with the H-Series, and determine your own, that's my opinion.  H-Series is more abrasion resistant.  C-Series is more heat resistant. C-Series for barrels, suppressors, car headers, etc...  H-Series for everything else...

That's all good to know. Thanks, brother!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm probably fixin' to (that's Okie for 'about to') get a "fraud watch" phone call from my bank. Because, in the last 30 minutes, I've spent about $1,000 online, snatching up the rest of the parts for these matched rifles.

All I lack now are the barrels, which require a phone call to Clint Beyer out in Washington...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got to give a shout out to Right To Bear, Armaspec, and Joe Bob Outfitters. I ordered that whole batch of parts on Friday, and the BCGs (Right To Bear), buffer spacers (Armaspec), and magazines (Joe Bob) arrived today.

Since Taccom3G (it was Taccom, wasn't it?) stopped making their "tension device," or whatever they called it -- the part that rests between the buffer and the back of the rimfire BCG to apply additional tension to keep everything in place -- I figured the Armaspec "A2 to M4" spacer would be a perfect substitute. Just place a notch in the front face to allow it to be held in place by buffer retainer and protrude enough to make contact with the back of the BCG, and it should be golden. Hell at almost 2" long, it'll apply more pressure than the 1" long spacer Taccom used to offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...