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Vibe or rotary?


Radioactive

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2 hours ago, Radioactive said:

Do you have the plans? What did it run cost wise?

No plans just built it up around the two coolers. I can send you some pics w/tape measure( I'll even use the one marked in inches for you). My cost was about CAN$100, a lot of it including the motor was in my parts bin.

 Having access to unistrut  made the assemble easy.It's basically a frame to hold the bearing blocks then everything built onto that.

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If you really want clean and looking like new brass:

Punch out primers with universal decapper die  (die body never touches the dirty cases)

Wet tumble in HOT water, SS media, Dawn dish soap, & 1/2 tbsp of citric acid powder (main ingredient of brass polish, available at organic food shops)

dry cases      As Gaucho said, food dehydrator works great

lube cases and resize

remove lube  (I wet tumble again in just hot water and Dawn dish soap.  My case lube is water soluble.)

dry cases. 

trim, chamfer, deburr, ream primer pockets

dry tumble in ground walnut lizard bedding with one capful of Nu Finish car polish

When they come out of the final dry tumble you would swear they were brand new.

Obviously if your process is different, some steps will be skipped

 

 

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I run pretty similar  dpete,

 On the really dirty stuff I'll run an hour, pour out dirty water, quick rinse then run again for an hour. The ratios(soap,citric acid) will depend on volume of water and where I'm at the water is very soft. As long as you're in the ballpark the brass will come clean.

I do notice the primer pockets come out nice and clean.

I've added a before and after pic of range pick up brass

Tumbler2.jpg

Tumbler3.jpg

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8 hours ago, Cunuckgaucho said:

No plans just built it up around the two coolers. I can send you some pics w/tape measure( I'll even use the one marked in inches for you). My cost was about CAN$100, a lot of it including the motor was in my parts bin.

 Having access to unistrut  made the assemble easy.It's basically a frame to hold the bearing blocks then everything built onto that.

I don’t think I have much for usable parts so will probably buy a consumer unit. I have seen plans before somewhere on the net. Thanks

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One can buy a cheap tumbler from harbor freight for $58 or so. It's not setup like that (with under roller driver) from what I can tell. 

Just plain barrels can be $20-$40+ each; depending on where you purchase them. Not even sure if rubber is a good idea with pins and brass; I use plastic barrels for all my metal work. Never actually tumbled brass myself, so I would be interested to hear any thoughts about that in particular...

I actually have a whole bag of SS pins on hand that I sorted out of mixed shot; since I explicitly DON'T use pins in my other burnishing processes. 

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On 3/23/2020 at 3:28 AM, Radioactive said:

I don’t think I have much for usable parts so will probably buy a consumer unit. I have seen plans before somewhere on the net. Thanks

Unless you have most of the bits n pieces laying around you're better off buying as you'll be up and running quicker and cheaper.

On 3/23/2020 at 4:37 AM, Lane said:

One can buy a cheap tumbler from harbor freight for $58 or so. It's not setup like that (with under roller driver) from what I can tell. 

Just plain barrels can be $20-$40+ each; depending on where you purchase them. Not even sure if rubber is a good idea with pins and brass; I use plastic barrels for all my metal work. Never actually tumbled brass myself, so I would be interested to hear any thoughts about that in particular...

I actually have a whole bag of SS pins on hand that I sorted out of mixed shot; since I explicitly DON'T use pins in my other burnishing processes. 

I have come across people claiming that they do not use any pins at all. Heck there was one guy talking about how he made his pins by cutting up #12AWG stranded copper wire.

 

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I have the Frankford wet/ ss tumbler and several vibratory polishers, the frankford does a better job, especially with the primer pockets, but for most range ammo  9mm/ 40/ 44/ 45 the big Dillon 2001 or small off brand vibratories with grit-o-cob and Losso is easier and faster and even  rifle brass clean / lube/ deprime/ size/ and clean a second time the vibratory get used more in my shop then the liquid. Good cases can be made for either type, personal preference. 

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I've cleaned all my cases by hand other than the regular bulk washing to clean off the funk. It's not fast; but I've not ever loaded a broken brass shell either. Each one gets individual attention in the process. 

Still curious if rubber tumbler barrels (and there are TONS of types of rubber) will wear and contaminate brass in a bad way. Especially with pins; it could scrape off and skank up the mix. I really do not know; one way or the other on that issue... Many rock tumbler barrels are black rubber.

I've not tried vibratory at all. I have a number of roller tumbling options though.

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I swear it works! 🖕😘 you could pad the barrel with a carpet pad or duck tape a few towels to the outside and reduce the noise sum.. I would do this myself but id be out of brass cleaning in about 3 days and Im here for atleast 14...

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