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I want to start reloading


blwn99x

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I bet they're both pretty good ( i know the rcbs is).  My first reloading was done on a friend's rcbs, and he still uses the same one 10 years later.  If he's replaced parts, I can't say, but he hasn't bought a new single stage to replace it.  I started with the Lee kit (MY first press).  I used it for about 1500 rounds or so over a couple years with no problems, and haven't done much reloading since, because I've been using military ammo in a military weapon for 80% of my shooting in the last three years, or shotgun for ducks and doves the rest of it.  I pulled it out about a month ago, just haven't put it back on a bench yet, because my wood lathe is in the way, and it's getting close to duck season again  :P  I need more days in the week  <dontknow> Can't speak to the Hornady other than reputation, but i bet someone here will chime in with actual experience to try and help.

Russ

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Oops  answered the wrong post sorry.

But anyway I like my lee turret press it turns out good rifle ammo and pistol ammo. You can run it as a single stage or auto indexing press and doesn't have such as high start up cost as the other brands. My brother likes his RCBS and I've used it when getting started to see if I was going to like reloading. It works good, nice press I don't think you can go wrong with it.

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thats for everyone's input so far.i figured with either kit i really couldnt go wrong.i was not aware of hornady's "quick" change die deal, but now i am leaning towards the lock n load kit, its just deciding on the classic or the classic deluxe. horn also offers the precision reloader accessories expansion kit which has a butt load of sweet tools(which i am NOT ready for) that i could spend hours on. I would say its a really good thing i am already divorced and located right in the beginning of my 30's mid-life crisis, because the wheels would definately come of that bus <laughs> <lmao>

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Hi blwn99x,

Glad to see you want to get into reloading. You will be able to shoot custom ammo for cheaper than premium factory ammo. But you will probably find you will shoot more because of it and maybe spend as much :)

What calibers will be loading? I assume .308 will be at least one of them, I hope?

You say you are not ready for all those tools in that expansion kit. I don't have some of those particular tools and I get by fine so far. But what accessory tools do you plan on? You probably know pretty much what you can get by on. Besides the press and relevant dies you need a way to clean spent brass. I was using Lyman vibrator with walnut media but recently switched to a small ultrasonic cleaner I got at Harbor Freight for $30. I got bottles of lemon juice from walmart and mix it into distilled water. It works good enough, better than the other way, IMO, I can do 25 .308 cases at a time and that's all I need in my case. You will need good calipers, case trimmer, case mouth de-burr/chamfer tool, case

length/head space gauge, case lube, probably inside case brushes, primer flash hole de-burring tool. What am I forgetting here for tools?

BOOKS!!!! you want at least one reloading book from a bullet manufacturer and one from a powder manufacturer. I have Hornady 8th edition, Lyman 49th edition, HODGDEN, IMR & Winchester powders handbook, and more....

This will all add up real quick!!!!!

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thanks for your input. i do plan to load 308, 223/5.56, and 45 acp for now, more calibers will come later im sure. the kits from hornady and rcbs come with all the basic tools to start reloading, including a book. i will check out the tools you purchased form harbor frieght as there is a store about 10 mins from my house. i enjoy "tinkering" with stuff and i feel reloading is right up my alley. i am an ammunition and firearm components dealer. i donot have my FFL so i cant purchase firearms and/or lower receivers directly to me, but i have access to everything at dealer pricing, so starting this endeavor and buying reloading components will cost less for me than the average consumer.

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All the major brand reloading equipment will do the job. Just make sure you read up & pay attention to what you are doing & you should not have any problems . Start at the low end of the loads & work your way up to what the barrel likes , it will show its self .

I never turn my cases right side up until I'm going to put the powder charge into them . That way you can see what's going on with them , deprimed & sized , just cleaned or primed & ready to charge. ( also helps with case brand identification )

I always have several different calibers in different stages of being reloaded going on all the time , so it helps me to know what stage each loading block is at .

More than one relading manual helps also.

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Bro if you get, got the Hornady L&L maybe the Hornady 8th edition reloading book is a good book choice for you.

The first part of the book has lots of pics and instruction on how to reload. And of course it's all pics using their presses and tools/gauges and stuff.

I got that book recently since I like their bullets.

But you should get a powder mfr's book too, like Hodgdens latest, or whomever powder brand you like most. At gun shows when I buy powder or bullets, the right vendor has reloading manuals/pamphlets they give out free with purchase. I have one from Alliant and Hodgden.

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I'm going to be following this thread closely, because I'm new to it too. Can't wait to get my dies and get started!

This is a good idea for you Matt. I'm glad to hear it. It keeps me sane now that I have lots of time on hand. I have a tv on my reloading bench, like to watch a Giants baseball game and prep cases/load ammo  <laughs>

I should get back to those load development threads I started, been neglecting them.

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Many loads in Lyman are generic.  Kind of bullet type and weight rather than the very specific bullet you are likely to find in the bullet-maker manuals.

I once made a table of loads for one bullet I wanted to use.  That is,  when buying bullets in a gun store,  you almost never see the exact same bullet twice.  There will always be,  for example,  150 gr .308 dia,  HPBT's.  But not the same exact maker's part number.  The bullet-maker manuals often specify a particular part number that you will never be able to buy anywhere,  including online. 

I had a column of five or six published loads,  for the same kind of bullet,  as in the example above.  Starting weight of the powder I intended to use,  max weight.  I calculated the difference and included it.  Then with my little 'Scientific Calculator' I averaged each column.  The averages were different from any of the published numbers,  but very similar.  Also,  the averaged numbers were very close to the footnotes in some manuals for "best" loads.  A quick & dirty trick is to use the '2/3 rule' for your first trials or as a working load.

The '2/3 Rule'  is to start with the published minimum weight of a powder,  add 2/3 (65%) of the difference between published minimum and published maximum,  and use that as your working accuracy load.  Early on,  while finding the 'best' bullet,  this is a good approach.  The load will be well below max and should be safe in any major brand gun in decent condition that was manufactured since 1960.  This weight of powder also usually is very close to the footnoted (if there is one) best accuracy load.  But,  as always,  no promises!  What you or any reader does while reloading and shooting is beyond knowledge and everyone is on their own!

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  • 2 weeks later...

    The Lyman is good for cast loads, but I have not used it for jacketed for over 20 years.

  I try to use the book  published by the mfg of the bullett I'm using.

    Nosler and Speer  and Hornady are my favorites.

  Got two copys of each.  One on the book rack by my reading chair, one on the loading bench.

    Respectfully

    Terry

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  • 1 month later...

Any update on this? I am looking a getting started myself. I have looked and looked and still not sure what to get. I would love a single stage to start out but at the same time why not just step up the plate and get a Dillon 650 and just start spitting it out <thumbsup> At the rate these things can eat ammo hand loading might take a while for a few hours of fun <laughs> If I still had my 700 bolt gun single stage all the way!

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I have a friend/student that got reeled in hook, line, and sinker into the "Just get a Dillon 650, as that is what you'll end up with in the long run anyway."

It didn't take him long to realize that he was in WELL over his head and WAY beyond his need for reloading capacity.  All because he wanted to take the word of self-agrandizing "experts" instead of taking the time to learn first.

Start with a single-stage press or if you insist on being thick-headed, get a manual progressive.  Guys that know their stuff and get their routines down can load a LOT of ammo on a single-stage.  Another guy I know has a documented 700,000+ rounds on a Lee Progressive press.

Start out with the least expensive you can afford to learn with.  Lee offers the Challenger Breech-Lock Starter Kit for around $100, dies and gauges will run you a bit more.  That is 1/3 to 1/4 the cost of the RCBS, Hornady, or Lyman starter kits, and the ammunition made on all four still fits in the same gauges, same chambers, and still hits the same targets.  Ammo loaded on a Lee press and Lee dies was the first to be shot and break the smaller-than-10" 1,000 yard group in competition.

The key is learning from someone with experience.  Once you learn, PAY ATTENTION to what you are doing when reloading!!!!!!

Jon

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