Pathfinder Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hey all,I just made my intro in the appropriate section and it resulted in come discussion about my new rifle. I figured the topic was best moved out of there to here since that's an intro section only.Ok so my new DPMS LR308 has a fixed FSP and I am interested in taking the plain Jane smooth free floated fore end off. I am told it unscrews and can be taken down with a strap type wrench.However the tube comes almost to (just short of touching) the front site post. How do I unscrew it and get it clear of the FSP? The goal being I want to mount a light and Bi-pod so I would need a rail fore end.I'm no mechanic/ gunsmith so I am not exactly seeing how this works. The current tube is one piece.Am I looking at having to drill that tube and bolting a picatinney rail to it? Pic attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgecrusher Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 you will have to remove the front sight post first. do you have roll pin punches or straight punches? they will be a key tool in the removal of the ft sight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 you will have to remove the front sight post first. do you have roll pin punches or straight punches? they will be a key tool in the removal of the ft sightHmm... I'm not liking that idea. Not being a gunsmith. I do not have those tools or any experience on the skill. Is this tricky? I mean I don't mind getting tools (of course), but how deep a hole am I digging my self?For example... How do I get the FSP off? The muzzel device is pinned and welded (this is New Yorkistan). I'm starting to think I may have to find a plan B here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty44 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Try:"How to . . . " remove AR front sight----- in a browser search. Google does not like guns, I avoid using Google Chrome (I usually use IE) for these searches. Very good illustrated step-by-steps will appear. Brownells publishes text instructions, so do others; lots of YouTube videos of various qualities. Use this approach for each thing. It has worked well for me. If you get hung up, the members of this forum will do our best. Many instructions are for AR-15's. Parts for the AR-308 are just a little bigger. Like the diff under the front end of a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pickup. A set of pin punches and other small tools like a brass mallet and a plastic/rubber mallet are available at places like Sears, sometimes Wal-Mart, or Brownells online, other vendors. Be careful of price; many small tools are available at reasonable prices and at gold-plated prices. Unless you are a professional gunsmith, they all are about equal. 'Sets' of tools are very nice; maybe you just want the one or two sizes you need. You may never use more than one or two of things like a pin punch or screwdriver. If costs are important. I have saved much cash just by scrolling down in the online catalogs to the cheaper (and equal or better quality) items way down in the listings. If you replace a gas block, buy steel. Be sure the things you want to remove will fit over (slide off over) the muzzle device. And the new things will slide back over the muzzle device. Alternatively, a better (?)($$$ ?) barrel without a muzzle device is an option (my DPMS LR-308 has a recessed crown; no hardware or threading). Doing most of the things needed are not difficult. Driving out a roll pin is like hammering a nail --- straight. Hitting just hard enough to move the pin a little each time the hammer lands. Did I mention secure support for the rifle and parts being worked on? But that is in the 'How To's.' So is which side to drive the pins 'from' and 'to.' If it makes a diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 I just posted some advice on your original into thread, about how to remove your front sight post, but I did not realize your muzzle device was pinned/welded. I think that you're going to be stuck with your present setup, unless you are willing to have the muzzle device removed temporarily while you switch the hand guard, and then have it repinned/welded afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 You should be able to mark , drill & tap for rails with the hand guard on the rifle . If you take it off thinking you can set rails up with it off, it may not index to the same place as it was before being removed .If you are not sure of your skills , take it to a gunsmith , it will be money well spent . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgecrusher Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 it's not going to happen, not the normal way. sorry, but i think you should have a gunsmith remove the blind pin on the muzzle for you properly. then he can take it apart the right way, and I suggest you pick out a rail and have a lo-pro gas block to put on under the rail. you can then mount your rail and light to it.i would like to have been able to suggest a few alternatives for you, using the original, but i'm not sure how you will like the look with the short carbine tube. one way is to drill the tube, and add something like these, and you mount your stuff, unfortunately the bi pod will be close to your receivers.http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186728&CAT=4814some thing else would be if you can find a free float rail the ft sight post cut out for the .308ar, I haven't seen one yet for the large platform, but it can't hurt to call around. this is an example of one for the ar15http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2975we'll keep trying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Don't take it apart!You got a steal of a deal on the rifle, make something of it! Sell the upper assembly (save the BCG for yourself) as it is. You'll get about $400 for it!Now go buy EXACTLY what you want! The $400 will cover about 50-80% of a new build (depending on your taste). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magwa Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 I would love to have that upper..... indeed i would.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Don't take it apart!You got a steal of a deal on the rifle, make something of it! Sell the upper assembly (save the BCG for yourself) as it is. You'll get about $400 for it!Now go buy EXACTLY what you want! The $400 will cover about 50-80% of a new build (depending on your taste).I would not separate the bolt from the barrel . The Bolt carrier , not a problem . The bolt may be matched or seated to that barrels ,barrel extension . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Take the taper pins out of the front sight base, then cut it off. Replace it with a two-piece gas block, and the freefloat handguard of your choice. <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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