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My first load development


Cali_Ed

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Ed, in the pic of the group you posted, you're using the caliper to measure from furthest outside to furthest outside - you're adding extra stuff. Measure center to center, furthest rounds apart. That'll cut your number down, and when you divide, it'll give you the real group average.

Ive always been taught to measure edge to edge and subtract the bullet diameter
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What are your guys go to primers, currently I just got a 100 pack to test out of the cci100 I haven't found some 210feds that I want to try

Every caliber is different.

.308win ~ 1st CCI 34 , 2nd Win Wlr , Special Fed GMM. 3rd CCI 200

.223REM ~ 1st CCI 41, 2nd Win wsr , 3rd CCI 400

6.8spc ~ 1st CCI 450(small magnum} ,2nd WIN WLR

300wsm ~ 1st WIN WLRM

40s&w ~ defensive FedGM100M , plinker Win wsp

10mm ~ defensive Fed GM150M , plinker win wlp

9mm ~ CCI 500

Edited by Dane Armory
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The SMK bullets sometimes being longer than others is very normal. To ensure the all the bullets engage the lands exactly the same can be done three ways.

 

The most simple way is buying a bullet seater that contacts the ogive of the bullet and not the tip of the bullet when pushing it into the neck.

 

There is a special tool that uniforms the bullet to be the same length. I believe you can get one at Redding or Sinclair. Also by doing this also ensures every bullet has the exact BC as longer bullets should have a better BC than the shorter bullets. Some F Class and Bench-rest and the top palma shooters do this, but not everyone as it takes a lot of time sorting bullets and trimming them.  

 

Last choice is to buy bullets with the plastic tip like the AMAX bullet, they should be all the same length but I never check myself.

 

As far as pressure, unless you seat them very long to reach the rifling, the pressure from mag length is nothing to worry about.

If you plan on jamming the bullet into the lands, and single fire them one at a time, you will need to be cautious and test the loads as you move up in powder charges.

 

Personally, I don't worry about length of the bullets, except to make sure all the rounds fit into the mag. Long range ammo I fire single far are to long to fit the mag, I seat them at .015 to .020 off the lands. I don't like to jam my bullets, if you have to unload the rifle, the bullet sometimes stays stuck and dumps the powder in the lugs and mag area. It makes a mess.

 

Better to practice more than worry about this little stuff.

Edited by N Jensen
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Here is what I shot today.

Slightly diffrent brass.

Fg7.62 brass

Wind 10 mp

52°

9b543264-4e3e-49e5-9302-bc6750ef2bb2_zps

Does diffrent brass make a huge impact? Looks like the "groups" opened up.

freshly cleaned rifle too

Edit: after watching a couple of rifle basics shooting videos, I'm not loading my bipod properly and shouldering it right. I believe someone mentioned that in a diffrent thread. So before I can deduce what load is doing what I need to work on my self. :)

Edited by Cali_Ed
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Brass can make a difference. Personally I use Winchester or Remington brass for long range.  This what I do to ensure accurate ammo for long range, ie 600yds or further.  All cases are weighed to +/- .5 grain, prime pocket uniformed, debur flash hole inside the case, turn the necks and use a bushing die and have a .001 interference fit.  Varget powder for me works the best in the 308, about 43.0 to 43.5 and a 175 MK. Remington 9 1/2 primmer or try a Win Mag primmer. CCI bench rest is another good one to try. I don't use Fed 210 M, to many blown primers.  Short range, 200 and 300yds, I just load them up,

Edited by N Jensen
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Varget powder for me works the best in the 308, about 43.0 to 43.5 and a 175 MK.,

I'm sure it works for you, but that is a s*&t-hot load. With a 175 SMK, Sierra maxs out at 41.7 grains Varget (2500 fps) and Hornady maxs out at 40.6 grains Varget (2400 fps) for the service rifle. Hodgdon lists 42-45 grains of Varget (2583-2690 fps) under the 175 SMK, but I've always found Hodgdon's reloading data to be on the hot side for service rifles.

Edited by mineralman55
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  What ever works in the chamber & barrel & long range may need a bit of push .

 

  No colored bullets at your range , are you sure they are not talking about painted black tip or Orange , meaning Armor piercing or Tracer ammo . Any commercial bullets , even plastic tipped bullets should be fine .

Edited by survivalshop
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Here is what I shot today.

Slightly diffrent brass.

Fg7.62 brass

Wind 10 mp

52°

9b543264-4e3e-49e5-9302-bc6750ef2bb2_zps

Does diffrent brass make a huge impact? Looks like the "groups" opened up.

freshly cleaned rifle too

Edit: after watching a couple of rifle basics shooting videos, I'm not loading my bipod properly and shouldering it right. I believe someone mentioned that in a diffrent thread. So before I can deduce what load is doing what I need to work on my self. :)

 

 

You're complicating $hit with complicated $hit.

 

Take the bipod off.  Shoot with the rifle resting on a sandbag.  You need to learn the shooting basics FIRST, - and get good at that - before you start adding things to the mix.  Forget bipods, rear monopods, scope levels, whiz-bang $hit. Leave it all at home. 

 

Steady position, Sight alignment, sight picture, breathing, trigger squeeze.

 

Focus on those...  ^^^   Take your optic off, use irons.

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Makes sense. May buy zq1 ammo and just practice. I need to buy a bag, the ones I made kinda blow. I don't have much on the rifle besides scope and bipod.

Thanks brother 98.

If worse comes to worse I can still hit something center mass or somebody with a big ass head lmaoooo

big-machine-gun.gif

Edited by Cali_Ed
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  98 , could you take some the surger coating off that , so I can use that advice .  <laughs>

 

I was kinda lame with that one, I understand...  :banana:

 

Ed is making strides, so I went soft...  <lmao>

 

Ed, Minute-Of-Man (or Minute-Of-Deer) is perfectly acceptable.  However, once you add stress to that, most people can't shoot that.  Off bags and bipods, sleds, rests, locked into shooting jackets and all kinds of $hit, some people can do amazing things with a rifle.  Once you take that stuff away from them, some of them can't (literally) hit the side of a barn at 100 yards or more.  Focus on the basics, and become a good shooter.  As you get better and better, start adding things to the mix - not talking about equipment, necessarily.  Get good at shooting a group at 100.  Next time after that range session, go run 100 yards away from the firing line and the 100 back, drop your a$s in the bench and shoot 10 as rapidly as you can...  go downrange and measure THAT group...  You'll see a difference, and one that might shock you. 

 

***NOTE - if on a public range, notify the Range Master of your intent, before you haul a$s 100 yards away from a working bench, so he doesn't think you're a freak, and call 911 on your seemingly psycho display...***

 

There are many things you can do to add stress to your shooting sessions that will make you a better shooter.  Ask for examples, and I can give you things that will keep you busy for the next couple months.  <thumbsup>

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