@BigNate, brother, now, the next step, after you pick a scope...
#1. Get the scope in hand, and actually dial it's full max potential. Do that first. Once you know your total travel...
#2. Plan out your mounting solution. Figure out a way to take up almost all of your down travel in the scope.
Example: My current plan for the .338 - The Athlon I'm getting has 32 Mils advertised. I'll get it in-hand first and test it. 32 total would be 16 up and 16 down from center. I want to take up the 16 down, and eliminate it, so I have full dial. The rifle has a 20 MOA base on it already. If I pick up the Burris XTR Signature rings, I can dial 40 MOA into those rings. That will give me 60 MOA total, built into the mounting solution. 60 MOA / 3.4377 = 17.45 Mils. That would take up all my down travel, but would not give me a 100 yard zero, which I don't care about in the least for this gun. If I have to throw a 500 yard zero on it, I'm perfectly fine with that. And again, maybe they advertise 32 Mils, but in-hand, it's really 36 Mils of total travel - I have a 100 yard zero, which I don't care about at all, and I can take that up with another 10 MOA in the base... Change the 20 MOA on the gun, to a 30 MOA base...
Food for thought, but essential for planning out your mounting solution...
My loading goal is 2750 fps for the Hornady 300gr A-Tip from the 24" barrel I have. That won't be hard to achieve. When I make 2750, accurately, with the combo I listed above, I can dial to 2600 yards, dial only.
With the WinMag, and the Nikon scope with 23 Mils of dial (17 advertised), I intentionally put a 40 MOA base on that rifle, to take up all the down travel in that scope. Ended up a 500 yard zero. I can still shoot 100 yards, if necessary, and it's exactly 2.5 Mils of Hold UNDER, for 100 yards... Everything still works, once you learn the gun...