survivalshop

You need to post this in the DPMS Technical section or General Section , Thanks . Agreed. Thanks. -Robo

Reduced contact ? That may be good or bad , depending if the reduced contact still keeps the BCG in proper alignment in its travel upon recoil. The BCG is going to contact the Upper receiver as is needed & some of the length of the BCG's guide rails , could be shorter or not . Long duration testing would be in order to compare it to a std BCG , IMO

Union Boot pro's ( Thorogood ), all made in the USA , I have the web address some where , I'll post it up . I was on my feel all day going from job to job in all kinds of environments & I used the EMT type boots & shoes , all worked & were very comfortable , I screwed up just about every pair , I'm very hard on foot ware , climbing on or in Machinery . I still have a pair of their boots for Harley riding & one old pair of low cuts ( like the ones you show ), I use for yard work ( Water proof ) http://theunionbootpro.com

As you said , just shoot those loads at 300 & see what happens . The Velocity thing is over rated , but SD & ES will tell you more & you will see it at extended ranges . The COL will be max ( or close to it ) @ 2.800" , as you know its as close as the Magazine will let you get to setting the best COL & the bullet type may have an effect on the out come also

Welcome from St Augustine .

So if I'm reading your issue correctly , the Upper receiver has the bore for the Barrel / Extension , is higher then a std 308AR Upper ? Or is it just the rail height to Barrel center bore that higher & the rest is normal ? If its the the Barrel center line . Higher or lower , that adaptor may work as far as lining up the Hand Guard rail heights , but what about the BCG bore in the Upper to the Receiver Extension on the Lower receiver . That Upper receiver on any 308AR lower will not line up as it should & the BCG will be no longer in a " line bore " from the Upper to Receiver Extension & it will bind or hit the Receiver Extension some where its not supposed to. How about the barrel center line to pivot pin & or Disassembly Pin ? Maybe I'm reading that solution wrong <dontknow>

So , you will have 16" 308's with rifle gas system at that time also , because if you do , I will hold out for one of your Barrels .

Drew who ? <lmao> <thumbsup>

I've been wanting one of those , Which did you buy ?

As far as it hurting , I do see abnormal wear on the back of the Bolt locking Lugs , not sure if its from the Roller of Just a soft DPMS Bolt . I have the Barrel & another BCG ( Shadow Ops Weaponry, NIB, with STD Cam Pin type ) in another Upper ( Tactical machining ) on a DPMS Lower & its had quite a few rounds through it & no signs of any wear at all on the Bolt locking Lugs , but it being in a different Upper Receiver , & NIB Bolt , hard to say if you can even do a comparison .

You could have cut the long one down to work with the Noveske hand guard , but then you would have had to go out in the snow . <laughs>

Here is a thread I started on Annealing .

Sure makes life easier when the primers seat correctly . You pressure signs may be just deformed primers from seating incorrectly & the deformed portion is letting gas blow by . Which could also gas jet the Bolt face & screw it up .

Where are you seeing a Criterion 16" with Carbine gas system ? Carbine gas system in a 308 is a beater of components , unless you plan on using a adj. gas block . CMMG , well my friend has a CMMG with an 18" barrel & it shoots pretty good . I like my NIB Bolt carrier , cleans up easy .

Almost looks like a Claymore on the back of that thing.

You saved a photo of the " Behemoth " AR ! <laughs>

I have & still do , if round count up or seeing funny things in my grouping, Copper bore solvent till the patch comes clean . ( get the green out ) . Takes about 20-40 rounds to re-season the Barrel again , till the barrel groups better again . The Army Marksmanship program operates the same way , is where I looked before starting this procedure .

I have one of those roller cam pins & used it in my 16" for a while , didn't notice any difference , but what the hay , check it out , you never know .

I would keep the Upper receiver & lower Receiver made up of the same manufacturer , if your adding an Upper receiver assembly , less chance of Tolerance stacking. Forward assist not really needed for the 308 rifles , I think I have one with it & two with out , no problems, I wouldn't use it any way , even if its there . Its your choice , if just wanting a Low Pro Upper receiver , to match a hand guard . We have seen some that don't match too well out there , with so many new Manufacturers coming out with Receivers. If you have more questions , I would post them in the General section or DPMS Technical sections , these Armalite people don't play well with others <laughs>

Is this just a Bench rifle or do you plan to hunt with it ?

You need to read this , make sure you read the part where it says you could be a Felon by possession of Green Tip ammo . WTF http://townhall.com/tipsheet/katiepavlich/2015/03/06/exclusive-atf-has-already-banned-common-at15-green-tip-ammunition-n1966761

Its possible the Match loaded ammo may have a Primer crimp & the FC brass also , I have some that had a Crimp . Might be the whole priming problem you are having . You can definitely over ream a primer pocket or the brass you use for working up loads , gets a good working out , as far as the brass is concerned . I keep my work up brass separate , because of how its used.It only takes one high pressure firing to make the primer pocket useless for further reloading . Fired brass was never meant to be reloaded , it is us reloaders who milk it for more use . Its why I started to Anneal my brass after every firing , before resizing for loading .

As has been said , some of the 308 rifles need break in round count to free up the actions . On new built AR's of any caliber , I use a small amount of grease on the rear of the bolt locking lugs & a little on the cam pin . Most will say , no grease in any rifle , well in some conditions , this is a good rule to follow , but a new rifle & having problems , a very small amount of grease will help the action get through the break in cycle , if having a problem like yours . The products I use are , Gun Slick & a Synthetic grease , Red & tacky , but any mil spec rifle grease will work . You don't need much , just a swipe on the back of the Bolt locking lugs & Cam pin, after normal oiling .After a higher round count , you can omit the grease & just use the CLP or what ever your normal lubricant you use . The Gun Slick is a black Graphite looking lubricant & after you cycle the action a couple of times , it looks like you went through a couple of thousand rounds with out cleaning . I have used GS even in very cold temps. , the Red & Tacky would be for warmer environments . Being a Factory rifle the Head Space should have been checked , but its good practice to check it when here is a problem like this , just to be sure its properly set .

There is one Company making a hand gun in .223 , a single shot I believe , I saw an add I think it was in American Rifleman . I really do not see why they are even doing this , if its already illegal to use AP in a handgun .They are saying that because 0. 01% of gun owners might use this ammo , they need to ban it ! Communism doesn't need to use or make common sense , its the will of those in power who make their own sense . What A$$Holes !

Was this loaded ammo or was the brass bought as empty Cases ? As was said already , if you had a damaged primer seated & didn't notice it , it could blow out also . Use other brass until you get a primer pocket swaging tool . Since you had trouble seating primers with the one on your press , I'm betting on, its the brass. When I asked if the brass was sized correctly , doesn't matter what if FL or SB , it still has to be set correctly or it can cause problems . You powder charge may be on the edge of being too excessive & some brass will take it & some won't . And what did you use to ream the PP ? I sometimes use my RCBS de-burring tool to lightly de-burr the crimp . I have had some brass that would still be hard to seat the primer , even after swaging the PP & its the only way I have found to keep from damaging primers . I have the old small tool that has one end for the inside & the other end for the outside .