survivalshop

Yep.

I'm going to order one of there red dot scopes for my 1100 for hunting .

My TM 308 upper should be here tomorrow , Brownell's has them in stock . I was waiting for TM to restock them & read the post about brownells having them in stock & ordered one Sunday. I'm mating it to a DPMS lower.

Agree with all above & one more thing , take a Hunters safety course . It will help you more than you might think . We do have a lot of Hogs down here , shoot um up !

According to the serial # , she was born in December of 1943 @ Springfield Armory, was arsenal refinished for Korea & sent back to the USA for resale . I have had her for over twenty years , I was a FFL dealer & bought about a doz. of them for $ 269.95 ea. <thumbsup> 98 I have had my 03 for more years then the M1 & have not shot her yet <dontknow>

Why not just go with a BUIS ? The MBUS I have on my 16" 308 work just fine & there are a bunch of other brands available . Unless you just like the look of the A2 sight tower , the inch or so longer sight radius , will not make much difference between the two .

Ahh, I see now , its the Gun shows fault !

A Tactical Machine 308 upper from Brownell's ( for a DPMS complete lower I have sitting around )

All the major brand reloading equipment will do the job. Just make sure you read up & pay attention to what you are doing & you should not have any problems . Start at the low end of the loads & work your way up to what the barrel likes , it will show its self . I never turn my cases right side up until I'm going to put the powder charge into them . That way you can see what's going on with them , deprimed & sized , just cleaned or primed & ready to charge. ( also helps with case brand identification ) I always have several different calibers in different stages of being reloaded going on all the time , so it helps me to know what stage each loading block is at . More than one relading manual helps also.

Ya , I thought of that , but 1.760" is the 5.56/.223 case length , as far as I can see ,in every one of my reloading manuals. When I tested them , I staggered the loads so I know it was not jut me shooting better ( <laughs>) fat chance. I have never trimmed any case , no matter what cal. to the factory case length , I have always used the trim to length # in this manual . I just find it strange there would be a difference . Even stranger that I tested it at all . As said, I will have to try different calibers & bbl. lengths ,just because I'm curious . Also this barrel is 1-10 twist & 24 " long , Barns instructions for the 62 gr. bullet said they are for a 1-9 twist & under . Maybe barrel length make a difference in bullet selection as much as twist rate does.

Normal for the A4's not to have a sight on front . No 1903 configuration came with a muzzle device. Nice score ,98 !

What do you trim your .223 brass to ? I just loaded up some 62 gr. Barns TSX bullets & made some of them to case length spec's of 1.760" & some trimmed to trim length spec of 1.750 " from my older Lyman 45 th edition hand book & the trimmed loads out shined the case length spec ones , big time on the target & grouping . All charges were weighed on my new Pact electronic scale & all were compared with like charges .All were same name brass & close to same weights , as I always choose , all had Remington Bench rest primers , all same COL. Rifle -AR ,24 " ultra match HB., 5.56 chamber, S/S . Results of Chronograph. 23.5 grs. WC 846 ( trimmed to 1.750") Avg. vol. -2994 fps ES ------- 10 fps. SD ------- 5 fps. 23.5 grs. WC 846 ( trimmed to 1.760" if needed ) Avg. vol. -3000 fps. ES --------18 fps. SD--------- 9 fps. 24 grs. WC 846 ( trimmed to 1.750" ) Avg. vol. -3020 fps ES ------- 5 fps. SD ------- 2 fps. 24 grs. WC 846 ( trimmed to 1.760' if needed ) Avg. fps --3044 fps. ES -------- 47 fps. SD -------- 20 fps. All the trimmed to 1.750" printed one hole groups @ 100yrds & the ones that are at case length specs of 1.760 " were spread out a little , still good groups but the 1.750 " were real good . It may be that this chamber likes the one case length better than the other , but now I have to test in other calibers & barrel lengths , because in all my years of reloading , I have never done a test like this . I have always trimmed to the trim to length spec's from this manual . Any one else trim as I do ?

Whats a Gun show have to do with a Super market shooting ?

Most I've talked to think the trigger is so crappy & the 1-11.5 twist is not working too well with factory ammo . I have told them to try heavy bullets ,but most won't use any thing over 150 gr. , I got one guy at work to try some 165 gr. ammo I got him & he said it did better ,but still said it would not group . Rifle has a Night force scope on it no less . Bill Springfield will do trigger jobs on these rifles if any one is interested, just have to send the trigger group . To a man , they all said the Browning BAR will shoot rings around the Bennelli.

Been contemplating one of those since I eyed them at Brownell's web sight , now that some one has checked them out ( & they passed our stringent requirements of this sight <thumbsup>), I will get a couple & check em out .

98, your comparing an internal combustion engines valve spring to a rifle magazine spring ? Don't believe any ones life depended on an engines valve spring . In my over thirty years of shooting magazine fed weapons , both semi & select fire weapons , I have had numerous magazine failures , from floor plate breaking in half & all the guts & live ammo dropping out, to feed lips not holding & wanting to feed the entire mag of ammo into the chamber all at one time ( or as many as it could feed in there ) Every last one of the magazine failures were when the mag. was loaded ! <dontknow> <lmao>

First , have you tried factory ammo & how did it work ? It sounds like you are using just reloads in both rifles , could be a sizing problem , case length ,powder charge too high , or any of the normal problems related to reloading . Could also be a timing problem with the action ( weak buffer spring , needing one of the heavy buffer types , component failure, etc. too many things to list ) If you have no problems with factory ammo , I would look into your reloading procedures .

You can use any powder that's made for 5.56/.223 , just get the loading data . WC 846 is some what of a dirty powder , Tac, WW 748 , BLC 2 & a host of others are out there that may be better , I just have a butt load of the WC 846 & I use it on both 5.56/.223 & 308 . One other thing , lot to lot differences in WC 846 will have different results & pressures .

All springs have a compression cycle limit ,before they start to weaken & I use that term loosely because its hard to tell how long each spring will weaken & at what time frame . It is good practice to let a mag spring breath , so to speak ,once in a while to let it go back to its rest position , for good service life . I rotate loaded stored mags yearly & disassemble for spring to breath & mag inspection . You would be surprised how some mag springs go funny after fully loaded for long periods of time .( and it doesn't matter what they are made of or who made them ) A spring is a spring & all have a service life, there ability to spring back to original length after being compressed will vary.

I'll give you a load ,but my 5.56 that I use the 69 gr. bullet has a 24 " HB on it , so there will be a difference in vol. & grouping to yours. 69 gr. SMK. ,23 gr, WC 846 , Rem. bench rest primer, Avg. Vol. 2733 fps, ES -27 fps., SD - 9 fps.. I could load this up faster ,but they were printing less than a 1/2" group @ 100 yrds. & I may try to push them to see what will change , but I look at the SD. & when you get into single digits with a load , I find you will not do much better , JMO.

So you had a set screw attached gas block from the start , not an std. A2 sight . Still that manufacturers gas block holding screws , will most likely ,not line up with another manufacturers set up . Yes, mark it and put a dimple in the barrel like the others . Just make sure the gas ports are lined up , blowing air through the ports could only mean they are close or on the money . Measuring is the only way to know for sure .

Its probably not , but they see " combat experience " & the think PTSS or what ever its called now a days & they have been given a green light by this administration to detain any one that falls under that . Remember when they put returning troops on the watch list for homeland security ? For being potential terrorists. Besides ,they don't like berry or his henchmen any more than we do. Only dead people( Zombies ) & cats/dogs are going to vote for that asshat any way. <lmao>

Mil spec brass is mostly been shot out of belt fed weapons & a lot of people (reloaders ) are turned off by that fact. Too much case stretching , for long case life for reloading. Its OK for plinking/ blasting ammo though. A primer pocket uniformer is what is needed to straighten out a mil spec primer crimp . Mine is an RCBS unit & has done a fine job for over twenty years & others make them , Dillon for one , off the top of my head . Some die manufacturers fair better than others with the primer crimp .I mostly have RCBS dies & don't have problems with the decapping pins , of course mine are all older die sets.

Are you talking about the set screws lining up with the taper pin slots ? If so , you would have been lucky if they did line up . Set the gas block , so as to eliminate any play in the hand guard retainer , ( if you are using it ) & make marks for relieving the barrel for the GB set screws . Small indentations are all you need . Some gas blocks are not intended to be used with hand guard retainers. May alter gas port alignment.

Not exactly sure what there composition is as far as metal is concerned , but did notice one thing all the .30 bullets have a little nipple/point dead in the middle , at the bottom , could have been turned ? Bullets didn't cost me a cent . I originally had problems with bullet set back with some of them . I have fixed that in two ways , no expansion ball & or bushing dies . both work well . I have found with commercial brass , the bushing die works great with the bushing size I ordered & with mil spec brass , just not using a expander ball gave good neck tension to keep the bullets securely . Now Lee factory crimp dies for a positive crimp ,just to make sure the bullet won't move .