texas30cal

It's a 750, mud machine, it has a pipe, cdi, snorkels and jetting, that's it, this kid doesn't need anymore, I am doing both top ends because he drowned it and didn't get the water out of the cylinders before putting it in the garage for a month, rings were stuck and the cylinders pitted by the time I got to it. He did actually have enough sense to have me remove the snorkels so he won't be tempted to do anything stupid again.

Both are extremely clean, wish I still had my R but someone else got it when I wasn't looking, I have a big job on a Ranger crew and a motor job on a brute force that are supposed to be done tomorrow <nutkick> ! I will see if I can get the dales out for a wash and pics this weekend. There's not enough paint worn off the sides of that 500!

I know PMC .223 brass is good to go.

Put the postal money order in the mail this am, also a tip in there for you, thanks for doing this.

Once upon a time I had a '86 R, favorite machine I ever had, I do have my own thumb throttles now, '84 200x, '86 200x, 2 '02 cannondale cannibals I almost like them better than the 250R, I need to find a way to put the R plastic on them.

It doesn't take long to burn through the ammo that's for sure!

Those things scare the schitt out of me too, worked on them a lot but always recruit someone else to do any hard test riding, my two wheel skills are real poor, they always end up riding me.I may do better with a thumb throttle!

Look up the episode of Southpark titled "medicinal fried chicken".

Nothing real outstanding but the best would be Browning 1919 1928a1 Thompson F/A Barrett M82a1 Colt Buntline special S&W 460 and 500 It's hard to pick a favorite but they would be my Tommy, M1a, AR308, and favorite .22 would definitely be my Winchester 1890, there is a mg42 semi in the works so am not sure about it yet.

My wife, myself and 3 friends are supposed to go to Kermit Tx. later in Oct. or Nov., can't wait, I need to get the quads out and get them new batteries and check them over, we have 2 cannondales, American made! Dammit I thought that was a 500 even before I clicked on it, but I don't see the trailer? The one you haul your balls around in!

Just my NRA and my "happiness is a beltfed weapon".

Sorry, double posted somehow

Could overall be too long putting the bullet against the lands? won't this cause high pressures? It seems like I read about it somewhere and thought it may be worth mentioning.

How about some good close up pics of this I would very much like to duplicate it as I HATE the one that comes with the press.

What chassis does the military use on the m14 now? What designation does the rifle have now I know it's not m14 ? Great videos.

I can't shoot dogs, I would have less problem with shooting the average idiot. Well actually I wouldn't have a problem with a Chihuahua I hate those things, you just look at them and they shake and piss on the floor.

Forgot to mention that definitely don't load a full mag, I usually only load 2 at a time and do this several times. For polishing I personally wouldn't use any emery paper, it makes it too easy to round things off, maybe just a touch at the end but that would be it, it's all about keeping things straight and square and not changing angles as far as safety goes. I have found that anti seize ( I have the copper type) works well for lube on the sear surfaces. And do your safety checks to make sure the disconnector is working.

What? What happened?

It could also be a undersize firing pin, or a case of tolerance stacking, have no experience with the jp bolt or carriers but always read good things about them. My ejector pin was smearing a semi circle on the case everytime the chamber was rough and the ejector needed deburring.

I have had good luck using the lighter jp spring kit but the original hammer spring (the jp hammer spring gives light strikes), using a rra single stage as a starting point (excellent quality) I stone the sear surfaces with some inexpensive stones I got from Brownells (the goal is to improve surface finish and to NOT change angles or round the corners at ALL), I do the set screw trigger stop (check out youtube) to help with preloading the trigger but be very careful here because trying to make the travel too short can make it DANGEROUS. The beauty of this is you can learn quite a bit and it costs very little, if it doesn't work or you just don't like it , well it cost very little and hopefully you learned something and you haven't done anything you can't put right back the way it was.

It most likely ruptured at that point bc that is the thinnest part from being formed and due to cost they probably try to use as thin material as they can, I always use cci 34's for my military rifles that is what they were meant to use. Not real sure about the signs but is it normal for that much metal to flow into the gap between the firing pin and bolt?

Thought the same, made the comment about sprays like a firehose then came back with the remark about they only recommend a 30 rd belt in the new beltfed like he was trying to be p.c.

How does one get that job?

I used a small set screw from the top to secure the adjustment after it's been made, as far as strength I did not use the drill recommended by the tap drill chart that would only give it 75% thread engagement, I got in the machinery's handbook and found the correct drill for a 95% thread engagement so it really should be no weaker than it was before I drilled the hole. I am sure there is a way to mathematically figure how much the threads will hold depending on the material being tapped and % of thread engagement but that is way over my head.

I final got to go out to the range, I started with the screw all the way in and backed it out 1 1/2 turns, fired one shot and it did not hang open on empty mag, adjusted it out 1/4 turn at a time until it did hang open then went 1/4 turn more, everything seems much smoother and I didn't measure or record anything but my groups are considerably better! I was hitting lime-a-ritas at 200 no problem!