Rsquared

Oh I agree 100%. I was just pointing it out.

No. I can't stand to watch any of that $hit. And that's why I said just the tub first, replace floor, set new shower pan in place. Walls and $hit can come later. I can just do some white trash thing like drape plastic as temp walls. That way I can take my time doing them. Keep in mind....I live alone. No fukin broad to give me $hit about it. Trust me.....I ain't trying to bite off more than I can chew at any given moment.

Nahh! I don't care. Just kidding JT

SS nailed it.

Who is this AdamO guy? Do we know anybody named that? We haven't heard from a guy going by that name for what? 4 or 5 years now? laughing

No smartass. I've got a Band-Aid on the current leak. So no more damage is being done currently. I plan on ripping the tub out, replacing the sub-floor, and then installing the new shower pan over a day or two period. Now then? Yeah...I'll stink for a day. I'll be ready to give you a big ol bear hug (pants down of course).

Come on over to my side.

Welcome to the fold Charlie. Only three huh? Somebody's got some catching up to do. laughing

Appreciate the input guys. This idea is in a constant "design" state of flux. Right off the bat, I was already planning on using a thicker material on the walls for rigidity. And then use something thinner on top of that. The only reason I was going with the thin plywood backing (Luan style that's furniture grade) was for a good adhesion surface. I can't use drywall (gypsum based) backing for the adhesive for the sheet material. First, keep in mind that it's made for floor use (garage floor at that). That's for the durability factor. So it won't adhere to gypsum type material. That also takes out cement board, since it's a gypsum based material. Second, it'll all be one piece that I lay into the shower alcove area. Therefore, no seams to leak. I'm planning on laying in some cove-type of moulding in the corners to form the radius of the inside corners. Making a "softer" look for the corners that the sheet material will lay into. Now there's always edges to anything, so I'm still working out the idea for proper sealing at the bottom edges. Not so worried about the top since it'll be at ceiling height. The sub floor will be all marine grade plywood as it is. I had already planned on that. More to follow as I progress. This is gonna go slow. One reason is because the fixtures are a long lead time. So they're still about 5 weeks out. Plus....I figure that I'll gear up for this to do over my Christmas vacation. So I've got time to test and finalize my ideas. I just figured to get ahead of the game by getting the of flooring out of there. Plus...living alone....I ain't got an old lady to bitch to me about having no floor in there right now. On another note. I already built a small mock-up (last weekend) alcove to test my idea of using the sheet material as a wall covering. It worked out fairly well. But we'll see as time goes on. If you haven't figured it out yet. I HATE doing tile work. Especially the grouting process. Thus....the sheet flooring as a wall covering. Plus......it's different.

I've gotta go with Magwa on this one. I'm an AAC guy pretty much through and through. Mainly because you pretty much pick a manufacture and go with it from the QD aspect of it if nothing else. That's why I've got three of them.............................................so far.............................................. But I'm not biased to only one maker. Ha!

And well......since you said....................................................... More pics of the desk under construction. She's still changing. Plus..........some overhead lights that I built. All LED's by the way. Everything is constantly in a state of flux around my place.

I hear ya slugger. Trust me. Since I'm custom building this, I'm hoping I can get her sealed. If not, I'll rip out the walls and try again. But I think I have a plan. I'll keep everybody here informed. I'm not too proud to admit if an idea didn't work. Hell.......I laugh at myself almost as much as I do the Gen Pop.

One of the most bizarre days of my life. Being able to look up and not see a single plane (short of fighters) in the sky. In DC......there's always planes in the air.

Just let us know what you need for the old ladies build Jacob. We probably have the parts sitting around. If not, we'll keep a look out for you. You're one of us my man.

That......and we all know that this is what your wallet says.............................................................................

You ain't winding up in any chair my brother. I'll kick your ass out of it and make you follow me to the next cooler/bar. I have faith that you'll move. Beside's.....how else could climb aboard and ride shotgun on the short-bus?

Not too shabby Shepp. That thing looks pretty sweet. That's a damn good inexpensive (but labor intensive) paint job. You done good brother.

Now, I don't know jack when it comes to reloading small arms projectiles. But Alliant, as a company knows one or two things when it comes to powder and how it reacts to temperature changes. Last time I checked. They're a HUGE player in the aerospace industry. As in building rocket motors, and their thrust vectoring assemblies and all of the ancillary equipment. I would think that they know what their doing when it comes to solid propellant's. Now granted......they absorbed Morton-Thiokol Inc (those that brought you the Challenger space shuttle explosion back in the 80's) in the late 90's I believe.

This is a long one boys.......so strap yourself in. So....I've got to the point that I've had to start shredding my $hithouse at the ol ranch. I've found some water damage, and I'm constantly amazed that everyday that I climb into the shower, I don't wind up in the basement. Yeah, the sub-floor is completely fuked. Now keep in mind, that my bathroom is all completely modern...........circa 1961. All original equipment. So what's not to like? It's vintage (a classic) no less. So anyway, I've ordered the new fixtures (FUK me on the price!) and I'm waiting cause it's a 4 to 6 week lead time. Fine. I've gotta shred the old place anyway. So I figure that I'll take my time and come up with a good design for the new $hit, and start tearing out the old $hit while I wait. Mainly cause my new idea/design is gonna be a little (a little I said) out of the ordinary for some plain white trash residential stuff. Now my plan is to replace the tub with a full length shower. Last time I checked, I'm an adult and I don't take baths (no insult to my brethren here that may do). http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Salient-30-in-x-60-in-Single-Threshold-Shower-Receptor-in-Cashmere-K-9054-K4/205747630?keyword=K-9054-K4 So I'm planning on wrapping some sheet-style flooring material around the walls. A look and design that some wouldn't think of. I plan on wrapping the shower area, for a soft-style wall look, plus using it for the floor so it matches. This is the stuff that I'm thinking of. But I haven't made the final decision. http://www.homedepot.com/p/G-Floor-10-ft-x-24-ft-Coin-Commercial-Grade-Slate-Grey-Garage-Floor-Cover-and-Protector-GF75CN1024SG/203450706?keyword=GF75CN1024SG Now, the point to all of this, is the attachment method. And I was thinking of trying to cheat something at the corners (the radius)....yes I wanna round it off. I'm planning on using 1/4" plywood for the walls. You have to use contact cement to set the vinyl sheet in place (and it doesn't like gypsum/sheetrock). And I was thinking of just tacking (just at the edges of the radius) the sheet vinyl down. But that would leave a little void in the radius. No big deal huh? This leads me to a thought. Well let me tell you.......................................................................... That story led to this one. I decided to take my hand at building a motorized pocket-door a while back. Yes, yes.......some of you are gonna hit me with "you're a Trek nerd" building motherfucker (see pic 5 of my desk). And yes, that was my original basis of design. And no.....I wasn't going for the swoosh/swoosh pneumatic sound that you heard on TV. But an actual, functional motorized pocket door. So...building it from modern day controls (keep in mind that I do commercial controls for a living) and material, it was built using a plywood (furniture grade) laminate with "relay-logic" controls (Shepp will understand that). I built it to 1/2 scale as a prototype to test my ideas. I came up with the design. I would have an "open" button, a "close" button (for when hold was pressed), and a "hold" position. The hold position would open it, and leave it open until the close button was pressed. Sounds simple enough right? I even built in proximity sensors so if you were in the doorway (like an elevator), the door would stay open. Well, this is where the moral of the story comes around (keep with me now....I said this was a long one). As I said, I was building this thing using relay-logic. So if you pressed one of the buttons....the associated relay would "fire". Now....using a 12 volt DC motor, my "relay-logic" wiring was reversing the polarity to the door motor to drive it open or closed. Once again, Shepp can probably appreciate this at this point. I, at not time, thought that I would have to deal with both (or all) relays firing at once. After all.......why would anybody push more than one button at a time? Right? Well......................NO!. I no sooner (literally) finished putting the last screw into place on this half size prototype. When a buddy of mine walked in the door. Now keep in mind, I've known this guy (dumbass) since I was a teenager. We grew up together. It's been about 35 years or so now. He walks in.......says Hi.......and proceeds to hit the open and close button at the same time (saying what does this do.........even though I labeled them Open/Close/Hold). The same time. THE SAME FUCKING TIME! I'm not kidding. It was that fast. FUK!!!!!!!!!! I've since replaced the relay logic with a control board that I can program (for obvious reasons). So.....I circle back to thinking about "cheating" and just tacking the wall material just at the radius of the inner corners. And this tells me that I have to put some kind of wood blocking behind it. Otherwise.....somebody will eventually poke their finger through it. Not wondering what may be behind it.........just because they're human......and STUPID!. People do the dumbest $hit....and with no reason. Sorry for the long winded story fella's.....but I figured that you could appreciate it.

As 98 said. Be careful when ordering any handguard. Make sure it's for an "Armalite" AR-10. A lot of manufactures (and some retailers) call a ton of stuff AR-10 parts when they're not. As far as finding one. They're around. Check the regulars.....Ranier, Brownells, Midway. Then you can get pricier. Apex, SWS, PRI (carbon fiber) and others. Hell, even Armalite is putting out some more options to FF rails these days. As said, just be careful when ordering dude. That's the most important thing. Read descriptions CAREFULLY. Holler out if you need too.

Once again. Nice build my man. Nice review too. That's a pretty impressive rifle. But I've been known to have an SBR thing. laughing

She came out looking pretty sweet Larry. Nothing like suppressed 300 black. Damn near "Hollywood" quiet. Can't wait to hear how your can performs. Great job brother!

Not if Tom's hiding in your fridge.

What? To build one? Or just are there 308 piston rifles? Because, yes they're out there. But only a small number of manufacture's. POF, PWS, LWRCI and Sig (I think). Needless to say, I don't believe that these guys offer up their parts very easily. BUT........I could always be wrong. It's happened plenty of times.

I think he's right. He called it first. Actually. I'm stupid. Technically, it's a Noveske 12" Leonidas barrel. As far as velocities, couldn't really say. I don't have a chrono. I just loved the look when I first saw it on the Noveske website. So I built my own on a Armalite upper/lower platform.