shibiwan

LOL

As durable as the clear coat that is applied on top of it. Perhaps Cerakote MC-series clear....

Jesse Ventura an ex Navy SEAL? <lmao> <laughs>

If you're worried about someone jumping you when you're busy engaging long distance targets, you could piggyback mount an RDS off the scope tube.....

Left to right: 20 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours (and then the wife chased me off to bed).

You're correct. That's was the point I was trying to put across. Probably could have done it better. :D

Thick skin. That's one of the prerequisites of becoming a politician. I bet it doesn't even faze him. The fabrication & manipulation of data to support one's agenda comes next, since that requires thick skin.

Received the jewellers SS shot today. Misc cases (6.8, 9mm, some .380) BEFORE - initially tumbled with Raytech Dri Shine III (industrial walnut + rouge media .... notice the red residue) Let the tumbling begin (test dry tumble - no additives or fluids)

F**K YEAH!!

Almost any non-DPMS-made 308 upper is still the high profile (this includes the Remington R25 and Bushmaster offerings) . Not sure if DPMS still makes them with the old "high profile" since the switch in 2009 The only rails I know that is "DPMS low-profile" 308 compatible are from Troy, Apex and Samson. I bet there are a couple more out there but I don't recall who else.

You found out the hard way that there are two DPMS 308 upper profiles. The newer low profile uppers were designed so that the rail height would be the same as an AR15, which makes more aftermarket bits exchange a little easier. Every other manufacturer making 308 uppers have stuck to the "high profile" design. Honestly, I think they messed it up... to make matters worse there's the new DPMS GII pattern (this makes it pattern #3) to add to the confusion.

I can personally attest to the finish quality. I stumbled into an LGS last week to look around and see what 300AAC barrels they had. Among the barrels the LGS owner showed me was an SS 16" ball-mill fluted 300AAC barrel. I was very surprised to see that the finish quality was lacking. You could feel the poor machining quality just by handling the barrel. The edges of the ball-milled flutes were rough, which totally baffled me that something like that could have gotten by their QC. I'd give it a 3/10 but then again it was a relatively cheap barrel.

Yes, I personally prefer the setscrew gas blocks over the clamp on ones. P.S. Why arent you mounting the sight on the float rail instead? Simple fix; problem solved; cost $0.

Yup... methinks this be your problem. Most 308-AR barrels are chambered for 7.62x51 these days.

Enjoy!

Wanna be my cerakote labrat? :D .....er... on 2nd thought, after looking at the Krpytek pattern, I think you're better with a dipped decal finish. http://www.camodipkit.com/

I use this guy With straight 30-wt oil, it doesn't atomize well and shoots only in a stream. When you spray really hard, the stream does break up and gives a splotchy spray. With the 1:1 mix, it will make a good atomized spray or shoot a straight stream depending on how you adjust the nozzle. I've tried several different sprayers and got the same result. P.S. Sorry about the thread hijack. Now back to the topic on hand. :)

Most of what we showed you comes pre-tapped for the rails. I have a plain FF tube similar to yours on my beater AR so I know what you were trying to do. :)

Drill/tap should be fine.IF it does eventually strip, get longer screws and do the washer+nut method. :D

:D

I may be able to make that happen. :D :D

Hmm... we should do a comparo between the 14.5"/pistol vs the 14.5"/carbine barrels. Great excuse for yet another shootout in the desert like what we did to the phone in Jan.

Yup... and I do like how the F/A and the deflector block are integrated in some 308 uppers. ...and on the use of the F/A - whenever it's used, it more often than not exacerbates a jam rather than solving it by jamming the stuck round further in. Like 98 mentioned - spring pressure alone is more than enough.

Some companies do make a foward-assist-free upper.... e.g. my CMMG. I've never needed the F/A even in my military days -- never used it ever - so why get one. LOL

At the shop we mix ISO68 viscosity industrial oil (same thickness as SAE30) with WD40 in a 1:1 ratio and put it in a spray bottle (recommend the chemical proof ones from home depot) when we need to oil parts of the CNC machine. The mix sprays well and when the WD40 evaporates, it leaves behind a film of 30-wt oil. I think this idea could work well with thicker oil like Mobil 1 (0W40) or if you wanna go crazy try Castrol TWS Motorsport or Edge Sport 10W60.