Matt.Cross

That's why you don't dare a redneck tractor operator to "do a barrel roll!", even as a joke....

I did too...

LOL

You know what didn't change when you switched barrels? The size of reamer used to cut the chamber. You're two barrels into this project and that oversized crap ammo you're trying to use is still oversized crap another barrel later. What these guys know that you don't, is that you didn't get your original BCG "broken in" to mate and function well with your receiver; which was further compounded when you opted for an even newer tighter BCG that's even less well "broken in". You're the expert though, so best of luck beating your new paperweight into a functional rifle, sounds like you're going to have a lot of fun figuring it all out the hard way. Just sayin'.

I'll limit myself to one reason; more reciprocating mass.

Yeah, if anything these crazy people say starts to make sense, that's the right time to worry...

You ARE crazy. It just happens that all your other qualities are redeeming....

I am assuming he means that the threaded portion of the rear of the brake is longer than the threaded portion of his muzzle by roughly 1/4", leaving a gap that he's filled with a modified nut. The pictures will tell the tale though.....

I agree. We don't tolerate the hostile variety of nonsense around here.

There was a lot of internal consideration to allowing a political section on the site. Suffice it to say that it can be nuked at a moments notice with no justification or explanation required on the part of Mods/Admins. People need a place to vent their frustrations, that's pretty much it's purpose, though it does get a bit contentious at times. If it ever becomes too divisive to be good for the community, it'll disappear without a trace.

You clearly missed the political thread where some newb decided that a political thread was a suitable place to mount his moral high-horse and parade around like he knows something the rest of us don't....

There you go, exact same idea, and works like a charm. Congratulations!

Oh, it's really simple: 1. Make sure the scope is just loose enough it will turn inside the rings. 2. Place an adjustable parallel of suitable size on top of the scope mount and just underneath the center section of the optic. 3. Adjust the parallel to it's fullest height under the optic and once the optic will no longer wiggle on its axis, tighten the scope mounts and remove the parallel.

Yeah, get you a set of adjustable parallels, they're very useful. Here's a link to my set: https://www.amazon.com/PC-Adjustable-Parallel-Precision-Measurement/dp/B00D5EI0BE They'll put you 100% square to the scope mount and the picatinny rail, and keep the scope from canting while you tighten it down.

I know exactly what you mean from your description. It would be easier to help you if I could get a visual confirmation of what your hardware situation currently is, thus the request for a pic from the side. There's an incredibly easy way to level a scope perfectly square that physically prevents the scope from canting along it's axis while it's tightened down, but if you're not interested in helping me help you, I'll gladly butt out of the issue.

Can you take a picture from the side of your scope & scope mount? I've got a feeling this can be remedied without the Wheeler kit...

Hip waders? Forget that, in this crowd you're gonna need a snorkel at a bare minimum....

Not at all. Now if you go BUYING a Hi-Point Carbine.... You may or may not be laughed to scorn for all of time and eternity. There's only one way to find out.

Sounds kinky... 🤣

Welcome to the forums! Feel free to add a little civility and class to this joint, we could afford to diversify a bit....

Not with that attitude you won't...

Yes, and thank you for doing so. I've changed jobs quite recently and no longer have access to the required equipment, unfortunately...

Welcome to the forums, make yourself right at home!

One hand for the light, and the other for the tweezers...