Matt.Cross

So now let's assume you bought the 30 MOA mount thinking you couldn't do without it. You decide to laser bore-sight and you put and put an 18" square sight-in target at 100 yards. You put the laser dead on the bullseye and look through the scope only to find out that you're looking at a point ~19" under the bottom of the target and you've got about 28" of adjustment to dial, just to get a bore-sight shot, not to mention the possibility that you might get a low hit and have to adjust even more elevation.

I appreciate you taking it in stride, a sense of humor goes a long way towards avoiding frustration with long range shooting concepts. Carrying on from point #2 above: Let's say just for kicks that after compensating for drop and your 2.5" scope height, your total elevation adjustment for coincidence of point of aim (POA) and point of impact (POI) is 3.5 MOA. Subtract that from your 50 MOA available for adjustment and now you have 46.5 MOA of adjustment left to get you out to the 1k mark. Not a problem with the 6.5 Creedmore to get to 1k with 46.5 MOA available on the dial.

I submit the following as my first bullet point: Having had my fun, let's address the practical aspects of what you want to do. #1. Optical clarity in a fixed power scope: U.S. Optics utilizes excellent glass, clarity at any distance shouldn't be an issue, assuming your eye relief is correct and you can adjust parallax. #2. Total elevation adjustment: Let's utilize the 100 MOA of available elevation adjustment travel for the sake of example; Let's say your scope shipped to you with the reticle centered in it's range of travel, 50 MOA of available adjustment in either direction. With standard non angle-adjusted mounts, your reticle would theoretically appear 2.5" above the line of sight defined by the centerline of the bore, assuming everything was mounted correctly. Even if we assumed no bullet drop between the muzzle and your 100 yard sight-in target, you just lost 2.4 MOA of available travel to your zero, plus the actual bullet drop.

You have to crawl before you walk. The 100 yard zero comes first, that's what will tell you how much elevation adjustment will be either consumed or added to your available adjustment. After that, how much you will need to get out to 1000 meters will depend on your actual ballistic performance and environmental factors, not what a calculator spits out for an assumed set of conditions.

Depends on where you want to zero and what that'll cost you in elevation travel, or equally likely you could gain a lot of elevation travel and not need it. The easiest way to figure this out is to find out how much elevation travel you're left with after getting your zero established with a standard set of unadjusted mounts.

This is when we killed the 100 yard target, still looking for 450 footage.

Application. The LaRue is the most cost effective choice and an unbeatable value, the Geiselle NM is the ultimate in precision trigger dynamics. The best choice will be entirely dependent on your intended use.

It's been moved to the optics section.

Merry Christmas to all of you brothers and your families. Hope your holidays and the New Year bring you all joy and good fortune.

How you guys can come up with this crap is beyond me...

Absolutely! I know Ron well enough to know that if he jumped, he's got something awesome arranged at the bottom...

Ron, I LOVE THIS SCOPE!!! It's just painfully awesome....

Why y'all gotta play so dirty?

Undersized firing pin or oversized firing pin hole.

Ooooh, nice!

Welcome from NC!

*Scans very slowly & thoroughly to the left* *Scans very slowly & thoroughly to the right* *Scans very slowly & thoroughly to front and center* *puts binoculars aside* I love all of you (except @Rsquared, he and his Barrett did this to me) and hope I will be missed when I'm gone. Tom will distribute my guns according to his best judgement. https://www.primaryarms.com/nightforce-optics-nxs-8-32x56mm-sfp-rifle-scope-moar-t-reticle

It can't be true, they have really strict gun laws up there.

Brass is like bubble gum, pull the ends apart slowly and it'll streeeetch. Jerk the ends apart and it'll snap in two.

Meh, college is way overrated...

I hit up your link, best of luck to you!

What a sexy beast!

Welcome, I'm also from NC.

I'm not sure which is worse, the damage to your hand or having to beat off leftie-style. Get well soon brother!

Dope cards, a really good one that we haven't dwelt on extensively, even though we have covered them.