98Z5V

Make wood frames with a chickenwire backing in them. Secure your targets to the chickwire with wooden clothes pins. Seriously.

Hell, they're doing it right now, and we see it everyday. And we do nothing. You KNOW they'll get their hands in the pot, with "grants" and such, then let us have it! Al Gore invented the internet, so you KNOW OBummer will say he "pioneered the current solar technology..." Harry Reid will be in there somewhere, too, making BA-JILLIONS.

Just imagine, in this power-hungry-government that we have now,... TOTAL GOVERNMENT CONTROL OF ALL ROADWAYS, PARKING LOTS, SIDEWALKS, AND DRIVEWAYS. I'll pass.

Damn, dude - I had to go back and see who posted that! I was about to get into someone's a$s for talking $hit about you - and I saw it was you... <laughs>

Hope all my brothers have a very good day today. Keep the vets in your mind, be around your family, and appreciate what you've got. <thumbsup>

WAAAAAAY too much magnification for that distance. You're screwing yourself that way. You're relying too much on equipment, it seems like. Learn how to shoot first. Shoot iron sights at 100 yards, and see how small you can get your groups. $hit, start with irons at 25 yards. Become a good fundamental shooter first, and add capabilities and equipment over time.

I managed to download a chunk of that video before it was "removed in your country..." What kinda $hit is that?! "removed in my country" my a$s. YT Censors strike again. I knew they were out there, but that's ridiculous.

^^^ I'm with him. Cali Ed... There's a VERY WELL KNOWN rule on this board... If YOU ask about something, and NOBODY ELSE ON THIS BOARD has ever tried it... YOU have to buy it, try it, and report back. FACT. (^^^just like greenmist would say it - FACT!)

Dude has lost his $hit... There's probably NO recovery.

Former range I lived by had steel at 100 through 400 in 50 yards increments. I could ring steel all the way through with just minor sight holdover on a 100-yard zero. The 525 and 575 required a little more holdover, or elevation changes, but the ammo did it's job very well. It's good ammo. When it was available all the time, which was prior to December 2012, it was around $16/box of 20. It's very worthy ammo for the price it carries.

He certainly does have a couple issues... <lmao>

Nope, common misbelief. The index pin does not lock the extension to the barrel. It never should.

^^^ Yep, and if you notice, right before I took that shot, instead of my non-firing hand holding or bracing the bottom of the buttstock, I switched to a balled fist under the bottom of the buttstock - exact same principle and use as the squeeze bag. Tighten up the fist, raises the buttstock, lowers the sights. Relax the fist, lowers the buttstock, raises the sights. I got the height right for the shot, and did it. That was the first time I'd ever shouldered/shot Greg's LaRue rifle, and he has a PRS with Accu-Shot monopod on it - I had to take a minute to get used to the setup, before shooting it. That thing shoots like a dream... <thumbsup>

Damn, that 14.5" 308 barrel has my attention. $HIT! :rant2:

If you're talking about that pic above ^^^ it's a Millett DMS-1, 1~4x scope, illuminated donut-dot reticle. They're good scopes, and won't break the bank.

Barrel extensions are torqued to barrels at 175lb/ft. That's a hell of alot of torque. That's all during the manufacturing process of the barrel itself, and not a "user maintenance" area. Nothing you've done to the rifle should have made that extension loose, so you're good to go. First, the extension goes on the barrel, the extension is trimmed if necessary to meet proper headspace. Then the barrel index pin goes in 180 degrees off the bottom of the extension. Then gas port gets drilled. You can't just retorque the extension and call it good, That's why the guys are saying your barrel should be replaced - that's the proper thing for the manufacturer to do. <thumbsup>

I've been wanting to pick one of these up - good writeup, brother. <thumbsup>

DAAAAYUM, SS!!! That's WICKED TORQUE on that thing!!! :hethan: :hail:

If I'm running the sling like I should, my forward hand will always be under the fore end, open. Think "taco" and not "burrito." You don't want it wrapped tight onto the fore end. Just enough grip with my firing hand to hold onto the rifle. I'll even sling up if using a bipod, for the extra tension on the rifle - it's good stability. Other times, I'll rest the rifle on a rifle rest or bipod, and run my forward (non-firing) hand on the back bottom side of the buttstock. The front of the rifle is on the rest, or the bipod, and I'll control minor movements on sighting/elevation changes with my left hand on the back bottom of that buttstock. Here's a picture of "taco, not burrito." I'll see if I can find a video of the "holding the buttstock" method. I know there's one out there. Here we go:

Not necessarily. There's literally ONE part that's different than any standard AR-15 = the barrel. I built Dawn Marie's 14.5" 300BLK rifle and started it with a standard carbine buffer. It's a 14.5" carbine gas setup, I load the bullets with 150gr projos and a little hot. I felt I could soften it up a little for her, so I added an H2 buffer to it. Shot great before, shoots a little better for her now, more controllable. I'd say start with a standard buffer if you want, see how it does, and move to an H or H2 buffer later if you feel the need. .

Glad it made a difference to people, and happy to provide it. I'll be here all night, just remember to tip your server... <lmao>

I'll put it on my coke-gram-scale and let you know what happens brother!

Magwa, with you being so far west, I'm surprised you're so familiar with Tecumseh, and the Shawnee. I'm part Shawnee myself, through heritage, but not enough to qualify as NAI. Maybe that's why I feel such an urge to give you a pants-down hug, brother... <dontknow> <lmao>

3rd vid... GOD'S GUN!!! ALRIGHT!!! :hethan:

Local guy with it... I buy it.