98Z5V

My whole point was about the Green Tip 5.56 ammo - that specifically means it's real 5.56 NATO M855 equivalent (SS109 ammo). Looks like this stuff is NOT what it's "acting like." It's just a 62gr ammo that they felt like painting the tip of green... The projo might be the same thing - but I'd suspect that - and it's not in NATO cases, loaded to NATO pressures. That's fer sure.

No, trying to see if they're loading the 62gr penetrator projectiles into commercial .223 Rem brass, or if they're loading it into real 5.56 NATO brass. If it's NATO brass, it has to have the NATO headstamp. It's the circle with the crosshairs in it. See it here? If the circle/cross isn't in the headcase, it's not NATO-sized brass. Is that on your brass, in the headstamp?

Is there a standard size for the gas port - No. That all depends on barrel length, barrel diameter, and gas port position. That stuff is barely standardized for the 5.56 guns - even that is not a science - and it's nowhere close to being standardized for the .308 ARs. "drilled between 5/64 - 3/32" - you need to stick a numbered drill bit in there to determine the exact size. Giving the dimensions that you did, that's a pretty wide varience. That's somewhere between 0.0781" to 0.0938".

This will be the "ongoing." 20 Feb 12 date stamp.

Build a 5.56 gun. Run Barnes 70gr TSX through it for serious business, and poop ammo for fun. 14.5" pinned barrel or a 16" barrel. Based on what you've stated, that'll suit you a hell of alot better than a .308 AR.

Does the brass on that round have a NATO headstamp on it?

You are gonna NEED a good barrel and good trigger. The RRA barrels that they put on their serious guns (his is one of them) are no-bullpoopy. They are great barrels. You're also gonna need something better than the RRA 2-stage trigger. Even if he's not a good shot, if those two components aren't better than what he's got - he might beat you... <dontknow> Factor in some money, and planning, for those two components. If not, you've already lost... :o

Max range? Both target shooting and taking game. What kind of game? Moose, or chipmunks... All this makes a difference, man, and I exaggerate for a reason - makes it more clear.

What's your goal? What is your intent for it? Need to know that, before any recommendations can be made. <thumbsup>

Picked it up a few weeks ago, and meant to mention it - damn good high-quality magazine, and very well put together. I like it. Alot. <thumbsup>

I'm damn glad I snatched that up last week - SOLD OUT now... :o

Fixed again - I blame Drew for the Server Monster... <laughs>

1100-degree silver solder is still acceptable to the ATF - shouldn't have a problem with it there, unless there's some stupid state law that says it's an unacceptable method. Ask the 'smith if there's a state law that prohibits the silver solder method. He probably just doesn't like to do it, or makes more doing the blind pin and weld. ATF says it's alright.

Damn! What happened to the Beard-A-Thon avatar pic I put in there? Want me to update it again?

Start closing it down then, little by little, and see if things improve. It's possible that it's overgassed, then, and running so fast that the BCG has already overrun the bolt stop (single-round mags), and cycling so fast that the bolt is jumping right over the next round in the mag before the mag spring can get it up there.

If muzzle rise is the primary concern, then you're probably looking more for a compensator than a brake. I'll be trying this one out this coming Wednesday:

Give it more gas.

Gas tubes can wear out under sustained full-auto fire, but I doubt you'll ever be able to kill one with semi-auto fire. A melonited tube wouldn't help with sustained full-auto fire, except (maybe) prolong the inevitable a little bit. One reason the melonited gas tubes were a breakthrough at all was for the corrosive russian ammo - 7.62x39 and the 5.45 corrosive. If you have one of those things, and fire off a couple spam cans of ammo, you need to clean the hell out of it. The corrosive ammo will kill it, corrode parts (duh...) eat gas tubes, pit upper interiors, etc. The melonited gas tube was a cure for this. <thumbsup>

Did you get one with the AccuCam mount? That's a damn good setup. <thumbsup>

It holds up superbly to .308 bolt recoil, which is considerably more than .308 AR recoil. <dontknow>

...the guy that started the thread...

My trick with taper pins - use a punch with a face that looks like it's about 5 times too big - just to get the pins started on their way out. Hit those things like they just stole something from you. After you get them started, use the correct sized punch to get them the rest of the way out. One or two whacks with a BFH and a too-big punch gets them going well, then the rest is easy. Club 'em like a baby seal... <thumbsup>

Primary Arms red dots have always held up very, very well for me. I beat the hell out of them. I haven't tried their magnified optics yet, so can't make any real comments on them specifically. If they're anything like the quality of the red dots, I wouldn't worry. <thumbsup> THAT... is a very nice scope. I've got that one mounted on my Kimber .308 bolt. The DOA reticle is pretty damn good.

Noveske stripped upper and lower arrived last night. When I woke up this morning, it miracled itself into a complete 11.5" pistol... <dontknow>

Burris redesigned their own flip to side mount for it. I guess the early models flopped around after some use. The new one locks upright, and locks to the side. It's right around $100 for it.