98Z5V

This is gonna be a BAD GRENDEL, brother.

18" rifle gas for a .308 Win round needs 0.093"~0.096" to run right, with the 0.750 gas block journal size.

That's gonna work, brother.

One of the baddest modern rock songs ever. Ever.

Sprinco RED spring for this bitch, brother. I have one standing by, to test next week. I know you'll need it for this thing.

DAMN!!!

Like, next weekend.

GOD DAYUM GOOD THING!!! That they CLOSED the subway system. That beaver would kill everyone IN that fucking place. EVERYONE. They did the right thing, shutting it down - saved the entire city. Those motherfuckers are Cujo, in a smaller body. With bigger front teeth, to rip you apart with. Fuk 'em all. Oil-furred waterproof motherfuckers.

AZ, my man. Stupid hot summers, but paradise for 9 months out of the year. If you get this way, let me know. We'll shoot at my SDTF - Secret Desert Test Facility. You don't even need to bring guns or ammo - got that part covered. An overview of the SDTF... Pic acknowledgement to @blue109, for demonstrating his shooting prowess for the photographers.

I have some 46 grain loads with Alliant RL-15 for the .308 Win 150s, and it's a compressed load - only for my bolt gun. I won't run those loads through the ARs. 46+ grains of H4895 has to be compressed loads, or close to compressed loads, and way up there through an AR gas gun.

Here's some velocity info. I've used Shooter's Notes Velocity Estimator for years, to compare short guns to long guns. I tend to build a caliber, come up with a load, love the gun - and want it shorter - just to see how far I can take it. I use this to get an idea, come up with a basic chart, and test the new, short gun. It's always pretty damn close. Here's the Hornady 10 Manual load data for 150s from a 22" barrel, at 2700fps - max charge listed was 46.4gr at 2800. IMR 4895 and H 4895 are near-twins, and damn near interchangeable for load data. Hornady listed IMR, you use the H - not a big deal. The 22" load data comes in at 2700fps, per the load manual, and this is the calculation of the same load through a 16" - comes in at 2550fps - ish. Getting another 150fps out of this, through a 16" barrel, is gonna push you WAY over max loads. Suppressed will be even worse, with the additional backpressure of the suppressor. Getting 2700 from a 16"er with 150s is gonna be a timebomb, man. Just my opinion, though. I'll run another graphic with the Max at 2800 in the 22", and see what it is in the 16".

Watch some of this guy's vids. I haven't followed them for a couple years, but he was primarily hunting them with a Grendel. https://www.youtube.com/c/HornHillRange/videos

I built another large-frame almost identical to my 16" 308 Win AR, just for that reason - 16" .338 Federal - to smash big pigs. I live in AZ, have a friend in TX - and haven't been able to get over there to use it for what I built it for yet. I get it. How close can you get to these bastards? What's your average shot, and longest shot? I have ideas...

I can say this, for the 150s and a .308AR. I ran that load of mine through a 13.5" barreled gun, with only a red-dot, out to 400 yards on steel. It gets it done, even with just a red dot, just with holds. I have a thread on that somewhere here, with all the target-hit pics, descriptions of each 100-yard hold, etc. I'd say, more than anything, what's the goal for your gun? What do you want it to do for you?

My typical "range load" is Hornady 150gr FMJ-BT, and I have a ton of those things loaded up. I'll shoot some through a 16" .308AR next weekend and get chrono data for you, and report back in this thread. 150s at 2700 is doable, from a 22" barrel, at published max, or near-max charges. Getting those kinds of numbers from a 16" barrel is really pushing it. I can run some math and figure it out, and list it up here.

I've had TERRIBLE results turning PPU 5.56 brass into 30BLK brass. Two loads on it after conversion (once fired 5.56), and it's done. The bases bulge. I just went through a huge pile of all my .223 Rem and generic 5.56 brass - 1,116 pieces that lived, and got primed. This was all once fired. There were probably 30-ish cases that I threw out, after running them through the sizer.deprimer - bases bulged. All PPU. I have alot of the 5.56 PPU Match brass on hand, and never have a problem with it, when loading it for 5.56 loads. I don't even try to convert it to 300BLK anymore, though. It's just the regular PPU brass that I've seen my own issues with.

Indeed!

You'll need to drill the gas port up, for sure. Everything it takes to fix these guns is right here in the PSA Section. List all the specs on your gun, when you get the time. Follow this as a template:

This is gonna be a baaaaaad bitch, though. You want a rifle gas tube, brother? I can send one out.

I'm not seeing a PRI GasBuster in the pic anywhere. Hell,I don't see any charging handle in there...

Warmer weather raises the Density Altitude by a huge margin. That might have alot to do with this. Density Altitude goes up, speeds go up, pressures go up - and the projectile flies alot further, faster. Everything goes up, when Density Altitude goes up. Higher Density Altitude is bad for single-engine airplanes, but it can be good for guns and external ballistics. In this case, though, not so much, if it's the reason you're ripping up brass. You might need to change that load for the warmer weather. Example - my .308 Win load is Hornady 178 ELD-X projectile in Lake City brass, CCI 200 primer and Accurate 2495 powder. In 40~50 degree weather, it's exactly 8.5 mils of dial for 850 yards. in 105 degree temps, it's 7.0 mils of dial for 850 yards. It's a significant increase in velocity, and pressure. The proof is in what I have to dial to hit. The reason is the massive change in Density Altitude.

What are the full details on the recoil system now? Buffer length, buffer weight, we know the spring now, what's the receiver extension now? Still the VLTOR A5? Which one, there are two that work with stocks, and one specifically for pistol braces (we know it's not the pistol-brace one). What's your gas port diameter in that barrel? Shooting suppressed is always going to make more backpressure. Shooting unsupressed and getting perfect function should be the goal, to get the gun dialed in - then put the can on and adjust the block down until it fully functions. Trying to dial the gun in with the suppressor on is just adding more backpressure, and another issue with getting it all correct. Dial in the gun, then add the can and find out where you need to be. I agree with @edgecrusher - need more info on that brass that you're using...

It's gonna be a sweet system, and just RUN. I've spent about 8 or 9 years trying to get a dedicated 9mm AR running, and I finally think I have it figured out. PITA platform. Aero is simplifying it.