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We're here to support you - and drain your wallet...

Somewhere around this crazy site, there are videos of @Matt.Cross and I engaging some rapid-fire prone targets - at night. All you can see is the sound... fire, fire, whack, whack... 450 yards at night... We're unstoppable, like Cocaine and Waffles...

In that case, when you want to sell that LaRue to buy another Geissele NM trigger - I'll buy the LaRue from you. You won't be selling the Geissele. I wouldn't see either one of them, if it was me - I'd just build another gun around the trigger I had left over...

Smartest thing for you to do here, OP, with no stated performance goal for your trigger - is get the LaRue. Spend $80 - it's on sale right now to the end of the year. If you find that you want more from your trigger, you step up to the Geissele NM trigger, and shell out the extra money down the road... That's the smartest thing to do...

We've already done the homework on them, and I just gave you the Cliff's Notes...

Depends on what you're looking for, ultimately. You need to state what you're after here, first. I have several of both, for different reasons. LaRue - pure high quality, 2-stage trigger, 2.5lbs first stage, 4.5lbs (combined weight) for the second stage, non adjustable, and $90 regularly. What a great trigger, at a price that's unreal. I'd buy more at twice the price - and they used to be twice the price... Geissele - There is no higher quality - Adjustable from 1.5lbs to 5lbs first stage, to 6oz to 1.5lbs second stage. Those weights span all three configurations of the Geissele Hi-Speed trigger (National Match, DMR, and Service triggers). Full-Rip retail from Geissele is $279. Holiday sales come in cheaper, but not by much. I have several of both, and I made that decision on what I wanted that specific gun to do. Most of the time, I'll buy the LaRue, because you just CANNOT beat that trigger's performance for the dollars that you shell out. There are other times that I just want a little bit more, though - and I'll shell out that extra $200 to have that Geissele trigger in that specific gun, for that specific purpose... What you want in the trigger determines which one you'll buy. That's on you, and what you really want...

I was looking for my nephew... seriously... He joined the Army a few years ago, went to 75th RGR Rgt right away. Fucker went through Ranger School the exact same class that I did, August to October (Class 11). I did it in 1990, he did it in 2018. I was 11-90, he was 11-18. Blows my mind, 28 years apart. I know exactly how much Benning sucked for him, Dahlonega sucked for him, and how much Florida sucked for him... He was there when I was there. He's a Pu$sy, though, because I had Desert Phase in Dugway Proving Grounds, Utah - and they eliminated that about a year after I did it... CandyAss...

I'ma shoot the fuk out of it on Sunday, brother... You did that pile of parts PROUD!... What did you do for a recoil system in that pig?...

Wow, Doc... I'm all choked up on that one, brother. That was amazing - great find... I miss the people the most - that camaraderie. The single activity I miss the most is jumping. That vid was "Part 2." Here's the Part 1...

You're looking for this kind of design, right here: Mil-spec trigger designs are far from this. Stay away from RRA 2-Stage in this design. Geissele, Larue, Armalite, and others offer this design. That IS the RRA I pictured above. This is the LaRue: This is a Geissele Hi-Speed NM trigger: Here's the Armalite NM trigger:

You can't really compare the 609 to Loc-Tite Blue and Red - the 242 and 272 threadlocker. It performs a different job. It doesn't make taking barrels out of the upper a giant PITA job. It just bonds cylindrical parts. They don't slide right out, but it's not a bitch to work with, either.

I've got my Valk and .308 178gr Hornady ELD-Xs ready to go, brother. Sunday... You still in?...

...and the ice pick...

What brand of brass did you get? I've been making my own out of Hornady .308 Match brass - it's a process, turning the necks down, but worth it. Still easier than making 300BLK brass from LC 5.56 brass... You'll love it, man, big time. I was blown away with the flight characteristics of 6.5mm projectiles, when I got into the Grendel Unreal. The .260 was my own personal confirmation that 6.5mm projectiles are just BADASS... Lemme know what you're thinking for projo weight. I have a magical combination going on with Hornady 147 ELD-Ms...

This is a travesty...

Eh, since I've been collecting these things, I've been searching for holsters, brother. My specific search was for a G19 with a red dot-cut holster, and this light - these guys were the ones. While looking at that holster, I noticed that they have one ready to ship for the 320 Compact (M18)... which means they're familiar with your gun, at least, in the 320 form. My holster for the G19 red dot and this light will be from them. I'm going after this one, brother...

"Bedding the barrel" on an AR with a free-float handguard consists of using Loc-Tite 609 around the barrel entension, to secure it in the upper receiver. That's all it is. Here's Loc-Tite 609: High strength methacrylate ester acrylic retaining compound designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts. LOCTITE® 609 is a green, high strength methacrylate ester acrylic retaining compound designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts. The product cures in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. Typical applications include rotor to shafts in fractional and subfractional horsepower motors. Locks bushings and sleeves in housings on shafts. Augments press fits. Low viscosity Prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration Augments press fits Tested to the lot requirements of Military Specification Mil-R-46082B (this is a regional approval)

Every time I build an Aero M5 Large Frame AR, I use this parts kit, here. It gives me the takedown and pivot pins that are the proper diameter and length, it gives me a functional mag catch, and it gives me a bolt catch that works everytime. Those are the primary problem parts (as you've now seen) in mixing and matching parts from different manufacturers on Big ARs, just because there is no standard to follow, like cookie-cutter AR15s. This kit works on M5 sets, every single time: https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/m5-308-lower-parts-kit-minus-fcg

Brother, if you need this on the gun all the time, you'll need a holster. Right now there are only 5 or 6 companies making Kydex holsters for the PL MIni Valk 2 light. One company that looks good is Werkz LLC, in Potlatch, ID. They're about an hour from you... https://werkz.com/index.php/

Take a look at some of the stuff from Primary Arms - their own house-brand scopes. They'd have something to fit your parameters. https://www.primaryarms.com/Brand+Primary-Arms/MCategories+Scopes

I'm laughing my ass off over here, brother...

Same here - zero functional issues on the 4 or 5 that I have. They work flawlessly.

Merry Christmas, all my brothers out there. I'm thankful for the time we take with each other, and grateful for the friendships. If any of you guys have been paying attention to other parts of the board here, you'll be happy to know that the Forum God DID INDEED talk to Santa for me, and helped me out a little... Merry Christmas, Brothers.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane is an easy one, as far as description. Which plane is the reticle in?... In SFP scopes, the reticle doesn't change with magnification, and you have to be on a certain magnification level in order to use the ranging capabilities that the scope has - and it's only one setting. Your Reticle, and your observed target, are not in the same plane. On most scopes, tht would be the highest magnification setting, in order to get the reticle and target in the same plane, and be able to range properly. That's not always the case, though, and you have to know what the scope manufacturer states. Example, Nikon Black X1000 scope, 6-24 power - you have to be on 18 power to range... FFP scopes - this is easy - the reticle and target are in the same plane, all the time, and you can be in whatever power you want for range estimation. As you increase the magnification power, the target gets bigger in the objective, and so does the reticle, at the same rate. FFP scopes used to cost alot more than SFP scopes. That's not really the case anymore. Before, if was only the really high-end scope manufacturers that even offered FFP scopes - not so now. If you have the choice between SFP and FFP, and you'll need to range estimate out there, go with FFP, even if it's a few bucks more. If all you do is shoot targets at known distances, on flat ranges, and those distances are always the same, then it won't matter what kind of scope you get. You CAN range estimate with SFP scopes - you just have to make that extra step, and set it on the proper magnification level first... What did I win?...

Forum God... ... I hope it's not too late, I'd hate to interrupt you, but I just have one more thing. That Glock 43X is the perfect combination, I think, between the G43 small frame, and the G48 single stack slimline pistol. It's the perfect world. If you could please, please consider this, and it's under my tree tomorrow morning... maybe we can expose this guy that talks all the "derailing" bullshiit all the time. I'd really appreciate it - just the G43X. We don't have to worry about that guy that's talking the derailing shiit, if you don't want to... I appreciate anything you can do, and I appreciate your presence here, daily. Thank you for what you do... Love, Tom-Ass