98Z5V

It's just like Korea - they always know where you are, and when you're there. That's their living, man.

Do I have one? No. Have I built and tuned them? Yeah, LOTS of them. This was 10 years ago:

No shiit. I built one, then had four running around... Serious.

How damn old are you?...

I'm about 6" of dwell time on this gun, at a 0.071" gas port. This sucker will probably be going up. I should probably be in the 0.090" range on it. That means his 2" longer gas system, with around 4" dwell, needs to be over 0.100"... This is .308 info on port sizing, from a very reputable OEM manufacturer - this is all about dwell time:

We need gas port diameters from this guy, @308kiwi Gotta know that number, before anything else can take place. I'm thinking I'm not happy with my .260 gas port diameter, myself, at 0.071". I want to drill it up. I'm running a 147gr Hornady ELD-M projectile on a CCI-200 primer, reformed Hornady .308 Match brass, and 43.0 grains of a magnum powder - RL-22. It functions fine, and gets great accuracy. That's my final load on the 147s - until I start playing with RL-17... Anyway... I'm trying to make a load with the 140gr Hornady ELD-M with Accurate 2495. Same brass, same primer, 35.0 grains of it. It won't even cycle the BCG and get the brass out of the chamber - I have to pull the CH back, and fight it, to get the brass out of the chamber. That load and powder should cycle this weapon. First things first is get the 5.7oz buffer out of it, and try a 5.15oz buffer with the 140-load. If it cycles - then I need two buffers. Otherwise, that gas port is getting drilled up. The shiit we go through...

Absolutely - but only the ones that will kill me.

6.5 Grendel is an amazing cartridge.

You might have to call one of two places, to find out your information - either DPMS, or MagPul.

True - that's exactly what they are. One piece I'm not showing you in that pic, is the one I keep in the die set box. There's a special neck sizer that you run it down on, before you do any cutting. Also, that cutting tool is precisely sized (in this case, to 6.5mm) to support the neck from the inside, while you turn down the outside. Money is money, but it would be way easier to get the tool, rather than try to figure everything out to make your own jig for this job. It's only a controlled explosion, inches from your face. I'm just sayin'... Also, get the carbide one. https://kmshooting.com/neck-turning-tools.html Their instructions: https://kmshooting.com/kmshooting/media/pdf/97.pdf

Here's some background on Dickheads Sporting Goods. THose fuckers will never, ever see a penny from me. Just like CTD.

Here's what I do to make my own 300BLK brass from 5.56 NATO Lake City brass:

Now you got me on .223 brass... I do 300BLK and Sharps 25/45 from .223 brass. The 25/45 is brainless - just neck it up in the sizer die and load it and shoot it. Only take a barrel change. 300BLK is the same way (just a barrel change), but there's more work involved in converting the brass. I'll try to find the longass step-process I wrote up on it. .260 Rem. When you neck down the brass, you have the same amount of material in the neck, you just make it smaller - and it's usually thicker neck walls, because of that. Sometimes too thick to chamber. Hornady .308 Win Match Brass is the best I've found for this task, and I still need to turn the necks on about a third of them. I use a KM Precision jig to do this - they sell a really, really good kit, by caliber. Fully adjustable. It's another $100+ bucks to get into it, unless you find it somewhere cheap, but it's worth the frustration of having round not chamber on you. If you need it, you need it. On .260 Rem, you probably will, if you're converting .308 brass. I lock the converted brass down onto that shell holder, put it in the drill, and run it (slowly) down onto that cutting jig. Turns the neck diameter down to whatever I set it to.

I beat the piss out of this bipod today. I had the legs fully extended the whole shooting trip. I loaded the hell out of it hard, while it was panned. I rotated it the 180 degrees it takes to lock the pan function out - which turns the legs around backwards - and loaded the hell out of it again. This would fold a Harris' legs on you, if you tried that (and if the Harris even had that function). I shot it hard today, to be mean to it. I abused it. My only wish was that I was up in the rocks, shooting down, so I could have loaded it up on a weird side angle, on the tilt. That'll come. It feels like you can load it ALOT harder than a Harris. I'm not sure if that's because it flexes, or if you can really load it harder. The way I leaned into this thing today, I wouldn't try that on one of my Harris bipods - but I load those things up, too. I think I was subconsciously trying to break the MagPul bipod. I can't analyze that right now, but I'm sick like that. So, for me, there will be more of these in the future. Every bipod I buy will be one of these. I can't confirm this thought, here, but I also feel that if I every bust one of these up, I could send the pieces back to MagPul and they'd probably send me another new one. That's the way they are with everything else they make. Again, not confirmed, but if I can break it, I'll give it a shot. Here it is on the .260 Rem - this one is the M-LOK version. Next up is a Picatinny version. @Robocop1051, you got a Pic version in stock, brother? If so, it's going on the Mk12 Mod 1.

My two favorite are .338 Federal and .260 Remington. I make both from used .308 Win brass. I'd say it's as easy as passing them through the sizer die - and it is for the .338 Fed. For the .260, I'm only using Hornady .308 Win Match brass (downsize it), but then I turn the necks on that "new .260 Rem brass." For the .338 Fed, I'll make that out of any old .308 brass I find.

That's the way to go, honestly. You'll recoup the cost of the reloading equipment in no time, really. I load .338 Lapua Magnum for about 90 cents a round. That gun is chambered for $6 bills... Where it doesn't work out is manpower, versus cheap ammunition like 9mm. I can buy 9mm for about as much as I can load it, and I don't have to spend the time loading it. If you load your own, it'll certainly be more consistent than regular bulk ammunition. That's the greatest benefit, bar none, right there.

.308 Winchester seems to be your primary caliber - from your first post. 99% of these things are for that caliber, even if they're marked 7.62x51 NATO - that's just the military specification for .308 Winchester. Usually, if you want to go outside of that caliber - you have to hunt for it, and it's not an accident. When you find some parts that you want, just post up a link to them and ask away. We'll help.

The All-Elusive Triple Feed. That means it's airtight, right?...

This will never let you down. If the internal technology fails, and you don't know the math, it'll be a paperweight. If you've got all the basics, and you can function as your own backup in the event of a tech failure - then it's adding capability. The scope will eliminate some of the math, and shorten up the cycle towards breaking the shot. What kind of max distances are you looking at shooting?

Looks good, brother - great barrel there, too! For mags - E-Lander for the 17-rounders (like 20-rd AR mags). E-Landers for everything if you want. Alexander Arms sells them, and LaRue sells them. I'm sure there are more vendors, but those are the only two vendors I've purchased them from. For larger mags, Primary Arms has the ASC 25-rd mags on sale routinely. Those are the two flavors of mags that I run, and they work. Just had the 18" SPR-ish Grendel out today - it's still a laserbeam...

.260 Remington info: Wilson Combat .260 Remington Tactical Hunter barrel, 20" rifle gas,1:8" twist. Recessed 11-degree target crown. 416R stainless. Gas port diameter is 0.071". Weight is 1205 grams/42.5 oz/2.65lbs.

^^^ This, right here. You have a 20" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel with a Rifle +2" gas system. That's gonna have to be a giant gas port, because that's way down on dwell time. 20" barrels don't need Rifle +2 gas... Rifle gas is way more than sufficient for a 20" barrel. For comparison - which should be very, very close between 6.5 Creedmoor and .260 Remington - here's the details on my .260 Remington barrel:

That's such BS - it's, literally, not his position to determine that. He's the Governor - not the King. Here's the flip question, back to him - Why is legal to own an SBS in Ohio, then?...

For me, the choice is never any steel cased ammo. I load all my own stuff, so that's my first choice, always. If I buy, it's pretty much just so I can get a stock of reloadable brass built up, depending on the price of it. Ammo I've bought in the past was more of a precision ammo, Black Hills 5.56 77gr, Federal Gold Medal Match ammo in a few calibers, etc. These days, I stick to Hornady brass if I'm buying just brass - great life from it, reloading.