98Z5V

You are an Animal, brother! ANIMAL!!! THAT IS BADASS!!!

16" barreled .308 bolt gun, Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle (Ruger GSR). Rattled my teeth when I shot it, with that shitty compensator that Ruger ships it with. Had to put on a Spike's DynaComp to tame it down - so it didn't rattle my teeth anymore, and that worked. 11.5" 5.56 gun, A2 on the front of it. Fine. 7.5" 5.56 gun with an A2 on it - rattles your teeth. Had to put a Noveske KX-3 on that damn thing, and it fixed it. 13.5" .308AR, with an Armalite Competition Brake on it - perfectly fine, doesn't rattle teeth. It's a great setup. It comes down to what you do at the end of the muzzle, on shorter barrels, that makes the difference.

That is gorgeous...

Comes down to personal grip preference, more than anything else, until you get to the Gen 5 trigger. Triggers are easy to change, though, and the aftermarket is flooded with them. After shooting an original Glock 17, and that first round pull, I hated all Glocks forever - until I tried a 19X. Then I had to have it.

That won't happen.Been through this several times now, and it clears - doesn't bottom. You'll be good.

HELL YES!!!... I'd be right at home living in Fort As$hole...

That bastard hasn't been back. I've got two trailcams out back looking for it, and nothing yet. With the amount of noise I usually make here, the neighbors wouldn't think anything of a .22 blank going off...

There are 3 factory mags with that 19X, and the MagPuls are indeed easier to load up to the max.

Mikey found this and sent it to me...

I've been running a stack of them for the 19X, and zero issues shooting or loading them. Through the 19X, I've used one MagPul 21, 2 x 19s, and 3 x 17s. They just work. I won't get to run this 15 in the compact until I can get an upper on it - but I suspect it'll be the same boring repeatability as the other larger ones. They rock.

I finished the lower for the gray compact. Took a minute. The lower parts kit was from Brownell's, for $44, and everything went together just like it should have. It'll be a minute before I can get the upper on it, though. The lower parts kits for the other two are on their way, based on the test of this one. That magwell from Farrow Tech is good. It only secures through the back, and it moves a little on the frame, if you wanna make it move. Once you put a MagPul mag in there, though, that magwell is solid, and doesn't budge at all at the front. I'll put two more of those on the other two frames, and at $20 each, you can't beat that.

Sounds very familiar, Mack. Here's mine - 1903A4 with a Weaver K4. Are you POSITIVE that I'm not your illegitimate son?...

Yep, that seems to be the way Wilson Combat went with their barrels. They're doing that bullshiit "in-between" gas port drilling, so anybody can use anything, and it will probably function with off-the-shelf ammo, most of the time. Bunch of bullshiit. The Armalite AR-10 gas tube will have you a little past the centerline of the cam pin cutout - but at least you'll have the minimum amount of gas timing necessary, instead of "almost the correct amount of gas timing..."

HK would have been better off sticking with the HK33, and I agree with Rob - the only benefit of the design of the G36 was the pas piston system, and HKs move of it over to the M4/416 platform.

That thing is SWEET!!! There are a million ideas running through my head right now...

This needs to be reviewed - Kiwi is giving the proper information on headspace.

On a bolt gun.

Then quit trying the stubborn-machinist argument on it, sating your idea will work, then defending it... and listen to what's being given to you. You have any idea how many precision AR barrels Kiwi has made from scratch and bar stock, in New Zealand, for customers? You should re-read, and listen to what he's trying to tell you. Shiit, I can't make an AR barrel for anything - but I know the steps it takes to make one. Even I can see that what you're describing will not work. You can't afford to set a BCG body back int he upper at all. Nothing. Nada. You fuk with that, and you just fucked up the whole operation of the gun. Then you're compensating for the next fuk-up, machining something else... Listen, man, listen.

Work the buddy-angle, and get him hooked, too - I love it...

OKay - think what you want. Good luck with it. You'll find that there are MANY second and third order effects of what you're describing.

The barrel flange, brother. That would have to get cut to do what he's trying. Which is only going to change everything rearward - which is alot - ALOT - of parts that are not on a bolt gun.

No problem - you might need the quart bottle, over that little 2-ouncer, though, with what you go through over there...

How are you going to accomplish that on an AR platform, and keep the BCG and recoil system in check?... You set that back, and you set the BCG back. As soon as you do that, you set the cam pin back - and it MUST rotate in the upper receiver cam pin cutout... There's alot more here than there is in a bolt gun...

Use Rock-Sett, brother. Never worry about it again. This is the manufacturer - Flexbar: http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/ROCKSETT-2-OZ-p4019.htm I found that spec, years ago, in a military manual reference. The 'net is so polluted with information now, that finding it is a fruitless waste of time. I will find it again, someday, and save the shiit out of it when I do. And post it here with an immediate request that it be pinned...

And that torque should be 175 lb/ft. Good luck finding that spec in a military manual. It took me years to find that, and searching these days doesn't turn it up.