98Z5V

Hey, I'm here to help...

That doesn't have anything to do with getting soft from living in WA, brother. I hate to inform you, but it's because you met US... HA~!

Tell him it can't be fixed, but you'll buy it cheap!... HAHA!

Not really, brother - hate, HATE to be the instigator, but... lmao... Reload .308 Win, projos on hand. Reload 5.56 - brass on hand. All you really need is a set of 300BLK dies, and some powder. Voila! 300BLK ammo! I've got an extensive list of steps on converting 5.56 brass to 300BLK brass somewhere in this place...

Damn, Rome, that is nice. Now, your buddy is REALLY gonna owe some beer!

Rome, you gotta tell your buddy that he owes us beer... lmfao!

Gas block changing is about the easiest thing you can do, seriously. You don't need to modify the gas system to do this. One definite bonus is that the DEF10 uses two pinch bolts to hold it on the barrel - it's not pinned. That makes it much easier. Don't know of any rails or handguards that are gonna clear the size of that stock gas block. They might be out there, but nothing jumps out at me as an obvious choice. If you're super busy - just take it to a good AR gunsmith with the parts you want installed, and drop it off...

Pat, I love how you started that document, right up front. I knew that's exactly what you were talking about with this statement, in your opener here, too: I've been preaching that for years - and I've even had people here tell me I'm crazy for saying that, from the gas-rings back to the bolt tail, that IS a piston, and it's in a cylinder (bolt carrier). The cylinder begins movement, around the piston, in this case, instead of the traditional way where a piston moves inside the stationary cylinder. People can't get their head around that, and it fuks them all up.

GG, you need to research Filthy 14. It's a DI gun.

Brother, snatch up some Reloder 15 powder for those 168 TSX projos. Start at 41.0 and ladder up. You'll see some magic happen between 42.0 and 42.5gr. Don't go over 45.0gr max charge. 44.8gr nets me 2750fps.

I think my standard load in that damn thing IS a magnum load... lmao... 405gr Oregon Trail silver alloy cast boolits over 50.0gr of IMR 3031. It's stout - but it can go higher...

None that I've seen. The surface hardness of the annodizing is only gonna increase the scratch resistance, not necessarily increase the ridigity or strength of the part itself. And Cerakote is pretty damn scratch resistant.

They make you go lead-free, brother?

Yep, SLR Synergy Brake. That thing works GREAT! It's a brake, so there's zero reduction in the flash or the amount of sideblast that your shooting buddy is gonna eat - we found that out. Damn, though, does it eat recoil... You can see in the vid of Mike - turns a 16" .308AR into a flat-shooting machine. I'd rate that thing as: very effective. I'd really like to try out their BCF 30 sometime.

^^^ I love the grips on that thing, brother...

The Kimber BP Ten II mags are identical to Para P14 mags. I'll go pull one and check it. EDIT - Relaxed length of the spring is 6" if you run the flat surfaces, 6 3/8" if you run max length across the spring (one corner to the opposite corner). Width at the bottom of the spring is approx. 0.820". The spring tapers towards the top, since it's a double-stack tapered mag. Love, Tom

Pat, my opinion is easy - I think that there is one area where the "piston guns" outshine the standard DI system - SBRs running suppressors. You'll have almost all the gas venting somewhere towards the front, instead of through the bolt carrier and in your face. IMHO, that is the ONLY situation where I see it as an advantage. Everything else doesn't matter - on DI guns, you have to clean your bolt tail and inside the carrier. Piston operation just has that gas venting on or near the gas block, and you have to clean that, too. Maintenance is maintenance, just two different areas. DI works, very well, it's easy to diagnose and modify, and I'll always run them. If I ever found myself in a situation where the only gun I had was a suppressed SBR, then I'd live with it as a DI gun, but it would be better if it was piston driven. I don't ever envision myself being in that position, though, where it's gonna be the only thing I ever have...

Here are the two rifles I was talking about - top one is the light AR, bottom is the .308. Second pic is that SLR Rifleworks brake.

Barnes offers loaded ammunition with their TSX projectiles (already loaded ammunition, look for Barnes VOR-TX ammo). For the .308 Win, they offer a 150gr round and a 168gr round. Nothing is going to walk away after you plug it with a 150 TSX projectile, but if you don't like lighter ammo, then the 168 is there to take it down. It's gonna be the most effective round you can use, by far. Pick up a box of each and see what your LMT likes better.

Fuk me, I was tired this morning - but is was a great day! Mike brought a buddy from work, so it was just us 3. The Can Cannon got a workout with tennis balls and cheapass sodas. I think we ruined the new guy - he'd never shot anything before, so he got his chance today! He started right away on the Can Cannon, and went to the Mossberg MVP 5.56 rifle. We started cycling him through the other stuff, to the 300WSM bolt gun and the 45-70. He had a pretty damn good time! Two good tests on new barrels today, both Faxon barrels, I will say. The 16" midlength .308 barrel is a killer, and dead nutz accurate. Finally got the scope dialed in on that one, and the rifle runs fantastic. DWilson complete BCG ran flawlessly. I picked up two of those SLR Rifleworks shorty brakes about a month ago, when they had them listed at $15 each. One is already bored up for the .338 Fed, and the other one went on this rifle. Man, you talk about a side blast! I didn't warn Mike, and he was eating the shock wave right away... lmao... It keeps the rifle down, though, that's for damn sure. I didn't know if I'd like it or not, but I do. Also fired up the new lightweight AR, and that little thing runs like a champ, too - another great Faxon barrel. I will say, you can heat that pencil profile up. I started it at 25 yards on a sighting target, on the yet-unfired PA red dot. Came in 2" low and 1" right. Made some corrections to the sight, and was about 3/4" high and centered at 25. Ran it on steel at 100, went down 2 clicks on the elevation, and that thing was ringing steel with every shot. I didn't cool the barrel, but went through a 20-round mag in a minute, everything on steel. Here's Mike on the 16" .308AR.

Now I see it - I get what you meant...

10am, Mike. Don't show up before 10am. You never talked about time before, so I'm bringing it up now. I need 10am to get moving tomorrow... TODAY!

That article by Nick Leghorn was from Halloween 2014. I'm just sayin'. Anyone follow it, and find it's outcome, since it started almost a year ago?

I think we both did, my North Border Brother... LMAO

Mine above is using the Aero Precision forged lower and the X-Products forged upper receiver. If you look closely at the pic, I lightened the upper receiver a little bit. I'll do more on it, before I Cerakote the shiit out of it. That was the upper receiver that originally came with the Can Cannon, but I mounted that thing to a different upper receiver when I got it.