.LR 308 ejection

[vance.long]

my rifle cycles fine but I notice that after about 10 rounds the ejection becomes very weak. the brass may cover 1 foot at best can someone tell me how to keep consistent ejection as the rifle heats up?  it goes from the 2 o'clock area to the 3 o'clock area and  has rolled back and burned my wife several times. the rifle is all stock and has about 200 rounds through it   

[shepp]

2 minutes ago, vance.long said:

my rifle cycles fine but I notice that after about 10 rounds the ejection becomes very weak. the brass may cover 1 foot at best can someone tell me how to keep consistent ejection as the rifle heats up?  it goes from the 2 o'clock area to the 3 o'clock area and  has rolled back and burned my wife several times. the rifle is all stock and has about 200 rounds through it   

Lubed well? 

 

Also details on the rifle

Edited September 3, 2017 by shepp

[shepp]

Welcome to the forum feel free to tell us about yourself in the intro section

[vance.long]

Just now, shepp said:

Lubed well? 

yes its well lubed 

[jtallen83]

3 O'clock is fine on it's own. Weak ejection could be an under gassed issue, check for gas leaks. Could be a weak ejector spring. With just 200 rounds it could also still be breaking in, check for any unusual wear in the upper receiver, BCG, and where the BCG enters the extension. These large frame AR's like lots of lube during break in so don't be afraid to get messy. 

[shepp]

1 hour ago, vance.long said:

yes its well lubed 

Try more wet and sloppy I would think if it was a mechanical issue it would be persistant not after it warms up 

[vance.long]

18 minutes ago, shepp said:

Try more wet and sloppy I would think if it was a mechanical issue it would be persistant not after it warms up 

that was my thoughts on it but reassurance on the subject never hurts. ill soak it and see how it goes 

[vance.long]

43 minutes ago, jtallen83 said:

3 O'clock is fine on it's own. Weak ejection could be an under gassed issue, check for gas leaks. Could be a weak ejector spring. With just 200 rounds it could also still be breaking in, check for any unusual wear in the upper receiver, BCG, and where the BCG enters the extension. These large frame AR's like lots of lube during break in so don't be afraid to get messy. 

ill open with saying I like that scroll in your picture.. did my time with 4/10. and I see no unusual weak or anything I'm thinking I may just need to give it a bath in oil and run the piss out of it 

[shepp]

20 minutes ago, vance.long said:

that was my thoughts on it but reassurance on the subject never hurts. ill soak it and see how it goes 

Maybe try soaking the BCG in some Mobil one synthetic then wipe it down and give the upper a good coat. There are some memes on here about lube, trust me you don't wanna see them ??

[bfoosh006]

Like jtallen83 said... make sure to look for possible gas leaks at the gas block, gas tube and gas key interface.

One of my completely uppers soaked up the liberal coating of "Go Juice" completely... so be sure to lube a decent amount for the first few times.

[survivalshop]

    Factory Rifle or a Build ? Need some spec's on the Rifle .  It may not always be the normal things for weak ejection, I just had my oldest AR 15 , that had all the original components from when I built it in the late seventies , no idea of the round count & it was doing the same thing yours is doing , with the hot brass dropping on my arm , shooting from a rest . It just started to do it at a range session after about a doz. rounds were tested .

     After disassembled & inspected , I found the Buffer Spring had some strange bends in it , so I changed it out & the ejection pattern went back to normal without any ejected cases doing anything, but ejecting at 3 o'clock & about three feet away . 

  Sometimes its not the obvious , I had a Bolt repair kit ready at the range , just in case I had to change out the Ejector or Extractor components , but didn't need it .

  The Photo below doesn't show how this Buffer Spring on the left has some funny twists to it , but its next to a new one , both Rifle Buffer Springs . 

 As said above , it may just need more rounds through it , could be a slightly rough Chamber & gets tight when warmed up . Could be type or brand of Lubricant .

 

[vance.long]

2 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

    Factory Rifle or a Build ? Need some spec's on the Rifle .  It may not always be the normal things for weak ejection, I just had my oldest AR 15 , that had all the original components from when I built it in the late seventies , no idea of the round count & it was doing the same thing yours is doing , with the hot brass dropping on my arm , shooting from a rest . It just started to do it at a range session after about a doz. rounds were tested .

     After disassembled & inspected , I found the Buffer Spring had some strange bends in it , so I changed it out & the ejection pattern went back to normal without any ejected cases doing anything, but ejecting at 3 o'clock & about three feet away . 

  Sometimes its not the obvious , I had a Bolt repair kit ready at the range , just in case I had to change out the Ejector or Extractor components , but didn't need it .

  The Photo below doesn't show how this Buffer Spring on the left has some funny twists to it , but its next to a new one , both Rifle Buffer Springs . 

 As said above , it may just need more rounds through it , could be a slightly rough Chamber & gets tight when warmed up . Could be type or brand of Lubricant .

 

its a factory rifle and all stock it only does it when I get it hot if I let it cool off it throws the brass into the next county again 

[edgecrusher]

1 hour ago, vance.long said:

its a factory rifle and all stock it only does it when I get it hot if I let it cool off it throws the brass into the next county again 

That sound like it's a lube issue. Like it's drying out. What are you using for lube? Also, the large frame rifle takes many more rounds for break I .

[vance.long]

Just now, edgecrusher said:

That sound like it's a lube issue. Like it's drying out. What are you using for lube? Also, the large frame rifle takes many more rounds for break I .

hopes elite gun oil and ill keep running it and see if it breaks in 

[First Sergeant]

Okay, I'm a 308AR newbie, that said, I do engineering / maintenance type work. When you have a process that works well and things go to hell, figure out what changed. Do this by process of elimination trying one thing at a time, following the above advice for good starters.  

[mineralman55]

200 rounds should be enough to break it in. Something is weakening as the rifle heats up. Sounds like it might be the ejector spring. Can you swap it out?

[vance.long]

I ran about 80 rounds today with it soaked in oil and it did the same thing but yet again it never failed to eject just got weak enough for one to roll back and burn me this time 

I ordered a new ejection spring and ejector ill see if that helps but I may also have to accept that I may just be nit picking I'm really not sure and I am abusing this thing to torture test it.

[Sisco]

It shouldn't be doing that. period. See what happens after you install the ejector spring and ejector. While you are at it check your gas rings on the bolt. Thinking a small crack in one  might increase in size as the temperature of the bolt increases, causing more friction between the bolt and the BCG. Just a thought.

[bubbas4570]

I am going to jump on the bandwagon of good break in with a 308AR.

Break the thing in with lots of lube, then torture test it. These animals tend to need way more brreak in rounds than a 556 AR.

And don't change out more than one part at a time.....this keeps the "fix" understood to what exactly was wrong after finding the problem.

[vance.long]

22 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

I am going to jump on the bandwagon of good break in with a 308AR.

Break the thing in with lots of lube, then torture test it. These animals tend to need way more brreak in rounds than a 556 AR.

And don't change out more than one part at a time.....this keeps the "fix" understood to what exactly was wrong after finding the problem.

I agree the spring will be in around Monday or so but before I change it I'm going to baby it through a few hundred more rounds just to get it around the 500 mark and then see how it acts before I change the ejector spring and ill go from there 

[survivalshop]

      I really don't agree with this Break in or longer break in story , Action should work from round one . If it doesn't , something is not right , though saying that , some may have issues with components from different manufacturers , since there is no standard for these DPMS 308AR Clones .

      I say some , because you get what you pay for & you are taking a chance with any low ball price for a BCG or even a Barrel , from some fly by night Company, that no one has heard of .  Some can say all they want about DPMS Components , but they have never failed me , they work from round one . I have had issues with mixing up Upper & lower Manufacturers Receivers  , but it was a Magazine issue with the new first gen. LR Mags , Metal ones worked , so the rifle still shot from round one , until I got a PMag when they came out with them for the DPMS Based 308AR's .

     Not being snobby or anything like that & the Components don't have to break the Bank , but there are known manufacturers of said components that work , DPMS , Fulton Armory,  are just a few, that just work . Manufacturers of some rifles  & components cut corners to get a rifle or components with a lower price range , nothing wrong with that , but Tolerance stacking or just improper machining tolerances can cause issues . 

      There was a member here who manufactured & used to sell BCG's  , absolutely some fine tooled BCG's & some had issues with them with Ejection issues , I purchased one from him & had FTE issues , after taking measurements of the Bolt & its Components , I found machining tolerances different then a Factory DPMS Extractor , I got a kit from him with a upgraded Extractor , still had FTE issues , put the Factory DPMS Extractor in  & the action functioned flawlessly . It goes to show you , it doesn't take much for a component to be off , for it to cause issues .

  I guess what I'm trying to say is , if you just rebuilt the Engine in you truck & it would stop & seize up once in a while , would you think it would need longer break in ?    Or would you look inside & see whats really causing it to lock up & not work .