Jgun Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 I ordered a Garand from the CMP a while ago, but when I spoke to my FFL, he told me it could be 6 months before I see it. I gotimpatient and started collecting parts to put one together. This is how far I've gotten so far. With the exception of the Repro stock and SA trigger, it's all HRA. Wonder if I'll finish it before the other one comes in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planeflyer21 Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Lookin' good Jgun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Can't wait to hear the sound of the enbloc ejecting from My own Garand for the first time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imschur Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Wow..beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Way to go brother Jgun.That woodgrain on the stock is a bueaty.Finnally took mine out and the sound of the enbloc is a one of a kind sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted September 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 The stock ,as pictured, is bare, unfinished wood. I had t do some fitting to get the barreled action to fit, but I still need to figure out what type of finish to go with, I've been reading about tung oil, and boiled linseed oil, and someone suggested that I use danish oil, (not sure what that is), but I want to get a peice of walnut to test them on before I try it on the actual stock. It looks as though I may end up with two, if the CMP rifle ever arrives, if that happens, I've got an idea to have one of them mounted in a Nigerian type stock. thanks for the compliments, One of these days I'll have a range report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang.....PING! Nice job Jgun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 That is an awesome piece of work, Jgun - well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 (edited) Nice Brake , who's the manufacture r? Edited September 27, 2013 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 The brake is made by Smith Enterprises. It replaces the gas lock. I think I've found a rear sight, if so, I'll only need to source the small receiver parts to finish the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Never thought of putting a brake on my M1 , I'm sure you are going to give a shooting report to us <thumbsup> . I have Match front blade & rear peep on mine , big difference over std.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 I'm not sure how soon it will be, but I will certainly let you guys know how it shoots once I finish and test it. BTW, Survivalshop, any chance you could post a picture of your rear sight? I still don't jhave a rear sight in hand, and I'm thinking, that since this gun will be an iron sight rifle, I'm going to need all the help I can get, as far as sights go, with my poor eyesight. I see that there are people offering hooded rear apertures with smaller size than offered by USGI hooded sights, and I've also seen someone advertising corrective lense inserts for the hooded sights, but I'm not sure I want to go that far just yet. I'm having a lot of fun researching the different parts and procedures that are used to accurize the M1's, but there's definitely a learning curve here because these M1's are a different animal alltogether than anything I've built before, even the M14 types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 ^^^ Fulton Armory, brother. They've got the NM sights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I checked out their site and although I've heard that their M1 parts and builds are very good, I'm hoping to get away a little cheaper than what they want for that NM rear sight. Good to know that I've got them as an option if I can't do any better pricewise. Thanks for the lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) I see if I can find the org. blade & peep also & take some photo's . Edited September 29, 2013 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripledeuce Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) OK, I could wright a book on stock finishes.LOL! Tung oil, boiled linseed oil, and danish are all gun stock finishes from the early 1900's. Boiled linseed oil never hardens. on a hot day, it willl ooz to the surface. There are a number of people allergic to tung oil. After many weeks of testing, my bench 'smith and I decided that "the Best" finish was tru-oil, over a "genunine" spar varnish base. Dilute the Spar varnish 50-50 with paint thinner. Keep brushing it on the stock , as much as it will take to keep the surface "shinny" for half an houe. then let it set for two weeks. Sand with 240 wet or dry paper, small surfaces at a time, used wet, wipe with a paper towel as soon as finished on the small surface. By small surface, I mean like one side of the buttstock at a time, or one side of the forarm a time. Let dry for 3-4 days. Next, coat the stock with as much tru-oil as it will take, rub untill you feel the heat build up on your hand. Let it set for two weeks. Sand with wet or dry, used wet, 400 grit. let set for 3-4 days. You should not sand hard enough to sand through the oil finish! Its normal, art this point to have small "pinholes" show in the finish. These are the pours in the wood, that will fill with additional coats of oil. Or, you could just slap a coat of tru-oil on it , or spray it with a plastic finish and be done with it. Depends on what you want. Respectfully Terry Edited September 30, 2013 by Tripledeuce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Thanks for sharing you knowledge TD, I have never used most of the products that you named, and I didn't know that that stocks treated with BLO would give up oit when left out in the sun. I don't thinks thats something that I want. I'm also not sure about the 50/50 mix you describe. I've used spar varnish when I worked in a boat yard, and in my memory, it penetrated the wood to some extent, but mostly left a coating on the surface that sealed the wood (unless it was scratched through to the underlying wood). I also recall it being a gloss finish, which I don't want. What I think I'd like would be something that would bring out the contrast of the wood grain if possible, and if it darkend the wood that would be acceptable (but not necessary), but would give a matt or semi gloss apearance, but not be a surface treatment, I want something that will penetrate the wood itself. Would the tru oil you mentioned be likely to give results like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripledeuce Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Nothing penitrates far. Our tests use many bases and Thinners. We even tried DMSO as a thinner. Genuine Spar varnish and paint thinner penetrated the best. All finishes were tested on 2"X2" blocks of stock walnut. Then cut in half to judge penetration. No finish really seeps "deep" into the wood. The most a stock finisher can do is fill the pores of the wood, and give the impression of "deapth". A matt or semi gloss is easy to do with a little work with some rotten stone and ATF on a piece of felt. Respectfully Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 (edited) Jgun get this works great ive done my shotguns with this...go look at the pics of my shotguns in the forum Wash http://www.lin-speed.comhttp://pointersoft.biz/external/hosted/garandstory/index.html Edited October 2, 2013 by washguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Washguy, After reading tripledeuce's post about the fact that BLO doesn't dry and the stock might get oily in hot weather, I had decided that I would pass on it. I've actually never refinished (or finished) a stock. I remeber working on boats and furniture years ago, but didn't consider any of the finishes that I'd used in the past to be suitable. So after I figure I'll stay away from the BLO, I see your post, and I'm intrigued again. the stock in the link really looks great. have you ever experienced the oil coming to the surface when using the Lin-speed? BTW, thanks for posting the Lin Speed link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripledeuce Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Lin-speed and tru-oil are almost the same. Both have hardners. Nither wwill "bleed" in hot weather. Respectfully Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Jgun lin speed is awesome and far better than tru oil in my opinion.....nope wont bleed....go look up my sporting guns in the forum..they are wenig stocks fitted to me but came to me rough sanded,,ive never worked with wood before,but these stocks are works of art....lol go for it! Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Thanks guys, I'm going to order some to test out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Thanks guys, I'm going to order some to test out. follow the directions and be patient....the lin speed will actually go into the grain the first coats are important...the wood will fuzz up and freeze...thats what you want.....what i did was apply let dry sand back...apply let dry sand back.....well thats the drill.....i didnt use steel wool...or boiled linseed at any time...i used fine grit sandpaper.....then after that i rubbed it in with my palm.....the coating is in the wood...only a micrometer is on the outside.....hard to explain but my what a durable purdy finish Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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