darb Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Up to you.... there's no better or worse, just that a longer one lets you hook on more stuff later if you so wish. It also allows you to have some additional adjustment room if you prefer the bipod a little farther back. good infonThanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I'm with Blksheep. I've got some Harris bi-pods (which I still like them). Some with, and some without a QD adaptor. Well made, sturdy and durable. Because of the lack of factory mounted QD mount, I've moved on to Atlas bipods. Both are well made, and nice pieces of equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) The other thing you might want to consider in bipod choice is snagging, especially if you're running around in the brush with the rifle (e.g. game hunting, zombie killing, competition shooting, exiting vehichles while armed...). I decided on one that is slimmer/smoother and has less protuberances, odd angles and had legs that could fold either way so it's less likely to snag on belts, straps, clothes, brush and branches, dead bodies etc.... One less thing to worry about when SHTF IMO. ::) <dontknow> My current setup. Edited January 30, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 The question of the durability on the GG&G came up - I have the HD XDS on my 308, and it's MORE than adequate. I've been meaning to pick up the standard XDS (lighter version) for a 20" 5.56 precision rig I have, but just never got around to it. I will someday. I'm pretty sure the standard version would hold up just fine on the 308, too. They're damn well made, and tough as hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 The other thing you might want to consider in bipod choice is snagging, especially if you're running around in the brush with the rifle (e.g. game hunting, zombie killing, competition shooting, exiting vehichles while armed...). I decided on one that is slimmer/smoother and has less protuberances, odd angles and had legs that could fold either way so it's less likely to snag on belts, straps, clothes, brush and branches, dead bodies etc.... One less thing to worry about when SHTF IMO. ::) <dontknow> My current setup. thanks for the photo, gives me a better perspective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) thanks for the photo, gives me a better perspective You're welcome. It's a Troy handguard but you get the idea. Here's the bottom of my old CMMG Mod 0 tubular handguard - it shows how most rail sections (2" shown) are attached to tubular float tubes. Edited January 30, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I used this when I had my RRA Coyote http://store.magpul.com/category/103 Just drill a hole no tapping needed.Come with a flat oval nut and screws have a drop of blue loctite.That hanguard was a round free float type.Just another idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I used this when I had my RRA Coyote http://store.magpul.com/category/103 Just drill a hole no tapping needed.Come with a flat oval nut and screws have a drop of blue loctite.That hanguard was a round free float type.Just another idea. ideas are good, thanks for the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) I kinda wonder how the Polymer rail would hold up with a bipod on it . That rail will take a lot of stress . I only use steel( @ a min. , Aluminum ) rails for bipod use , if I have to add one, on a round thread on hand guard. Most other FF hand guards have provisions to add rails . Edited January 30, 2014 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I wish to thank everyone for their input. I ordered the GG&G XDS bi-pod with the yhm adapter. to go on my .308. If it is not to my liking I will put it on one of my ar-15 builds, but Ithink it will be fine. Once again thanks to all on this forum :banana: P.S. well maybe not to happy with the money side but as I always say " what is another bucket of water to a drowning man". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 You're welcome. It's a Troy handguard but you get the idea. Here's the bottom of my old CMMG Mod 0 tubular handguard - it shows how most rail sections (2" shown) are attached to tubular float tubes. bi-pod and adapter have arrived. Looks like I need to tap two holes in my float for the 2 screws that were provide with the adapter. will that be secure enough, or should I get longer screws so I can install a washer and nut on the inside of the float? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htbde Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 ArmaLite free floating handguard is already drilled and tapped for multiple locations. Kinda nice for a bipod and sling if that's your configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 bi-pod and adapter have arrived. Looks like I need to tap two holes in my float for the 2 screws that were provide with the adapter. will that be secure enough, or should I get longer screws so I can install a washer and nut on the inside of the float? Drill/tap should be fine.IF it does eventually strip, get longer screws and do the washer+nut method. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htbde Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 ^^^Solid advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 ArmaLite free floating handguard is already drilled and tapped for multiple locations. Kinda nice for a bipod and sling if that's your configuration. Nice float. Mine is Home built(bought one piece at a time). Nothing I do is ever easy or simple. :argue: (with myself) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Drill/tap should be fine.IF it does eventually strip, get longer screws and do the washer+nut method. :D Thanks. Just curious as to the type of installation from others. Of course It would have been better to have this thought at the beginning of the build, NOT THE END. I should be :banned: from future rifle projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Most of what we showed you comes pre-tapped for the rails. I have a plain FF tube similar to yours on my beater AR so I know what you were trying to do. :) Edited February 12, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue109 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 I think id go for nuts and washers. That tube isn't very thick. I did the same thing with a Clark customs tube and PRI rail sections. Easier to just drill a hole anyway. Would suck to strip it out in the middle of the woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Yes I will go with the washer and nut. I will tap the hole and get a longer screw for the washer and nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darb Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Most of what we showed you comes pre-tapped for the rails. I have a plain FF tube similar to yours on my beater AR so I know what you were trying to do. :) My barrel is free floating and is knurled with a diamond pattern. I do not know why it did not come pre-drilled. This is just another bump in the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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