Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

So here is my range report!


Cali_Ed

Recommended Posts

When did you buy your JP bolt?

 

This is like Deja Vu.... I didn't run my rifle wet enough on break in... fixed that. My gas block leaked... replaced that. Still leaks. Replaced the tube, leaks less. I was getting failure to eject the whole time. Got the BCM extractor spring, no luck. Talked to JP...they put out a redesigned extractor because of all the problems they were having with their DPMS sourced extractors. Much stronger spring. $40. Problem solved. My chamber wasn't tight, but I did take a hone to it. This drove me bat chit crazy for about a year. It wasn't a failure to extract...the spent casing was not ejecting. It slips off the claw. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I found a gas block locally, my friend showed his gun smith the pictures of the gas block I have here and he said it was bad. I'm a try that to see if it fixes my problem. I usually don't take the barrel of but I did this time because starting to get frustrated I just want to shoot haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a hard time believing a small leak is going to cause a cycling problem. since most generally agree a .308 is overgassed to begin with. I really do think I broke mine in too dry.... which caused cycling issues. I mean it would short stroke, not lock back, get progressively worse. But then I basically drenched it and that was good. But my block leaked... which sent me down a rabbit hole on that.

 

Replaced my DPMS block on my Fulton barrel with aPRI. Still leaked. Recently I replaced my gas tube, and it leaks less. At no time did any of it change my failure to eject. My brass was landing exactly where a properly gassed rifle should, and still does. I run a AR-10 buffer and spring. So a heavy (proper) buffer and spring. 

 

Here you go....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It came with my barrel I got it late last year or this year I don't remeber.

 

They just started running the new extractor this year... Spring. New bolts come with the enhanced extractor. Yours is probably old style. Skip to the end of my thread if you want to see.... but there is good reading from all these guys on solutions.... have fun. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll have to take a pic of my extractor for your critique later on tonight. By looking at the jp enhanced extractor it has a bulge up top mines just smooth all the way across. The of it also sits a bit higher I'll have to double check. I'll get a new gas block and get my secondary bolt head spaced and see if that's the problem

Edited by Cali_Ed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What does that typically cost to get done ol ima go get my other bolt headsoaced

 

You can dimple your barrel with a drill and drill bit for free. Your set screws should have "marked" the barrel. If not, simply back out the set screws (one at a time) and mark their position on the barrel. The dimples are no deeper than the depth of the "V" of the tip of the drill bit.

 

And for the $60-65 cost of a set of Go, No-Go gauges from Midway or Brownells, you can do headspace yourself, now and forever.

Edited by Owl21
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya, I can't quite see it... but the lug on the extractor is angled which is how they do it. The regular lug on DPMS or similar is flush/perpendicular to the face. So that is a new one. 

 

Any system that relies on spring pressure might not work right. Increasing spring pressure might make the system cycle, but it does not mean it fixed the root problem. Seems like JP thought the spring pressure of normal extractors was not adequate for 308, so their spring is much beefier. I understand it's possible I still have a problem, but their new extractor fixed my failure to eject problem. You indeed have a different problem. The extractor you have is plenty strong enough to get the case out. The only thing else you could do is just take the extractor off and look at the spring. I know you do not have one to compare to (maybe) but it is really beefy. You should be able to tell. 

 

Check that the ejector is actually moving freely. The spring is very strong. Hook a case in the extractor claw and lever the ejector in and out. If it is strong and moves freely... that is all good to go. Most folks think an extractor problem won't remove the case, and an ejector problem won't eject it.... but a weak extractor spring will allow the case to slip off... so a weak extractor spring can actually cause an ejection problem. They work against each other.

 

Anyway... just trying to help. My only advice is to listen to the guys here.... and be systematic about you troubleshooting. I wasted a lot of time instead of going down the list and ruling each thing out. I also misidentified the problem in the beginning. Yes I had a cycling issue from running dry, and then it turned into a failure to eject problem. In my head it was all just a "failure to feed" issue. Hindsight.... I certainly know a heck of a lot more about my gun now than I did before. :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for this guys. I just got a ANIB Bushmaster(older mod with the high upper)and will start the break-in process after I throw on several add on parts. 

 

On some of my other AR's(300BLK,5.56,6.8SPCII) I actually use grease in some of the more prone to wear spots. Mainly the inside of the bolt carrier,outside of the bolt,inside of the upper,locking lugs,the cam pin and its channel. I also lube the FCG with some Tetra Gun and or Abu Garcia Reel Lube. 

 

Then ....... I generally keep everything wet with Break Free CLP. --- pruhdlr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for this guys. I just got a ANIB Bushmaster(older mod with the high upper)and will start the break-in process after I throw on several add on parts. 

 

On some of my other AR's(300BLK,5.56,6.8SPCII) I actually use grease in some of the more prone to wear spots. Mainly the inside of the bolt carrier,outside of the bolt,inside of the upper,locking lugs,the cam pin and its channel. I also lube the FCG with some Tetra Gun and or Abu Garcia Reel Lube. 

 

Then ....... I generally keep everything wet with Break Free CLP. --- pruhdlr

 

I was using grease... but then it's wet and it does not really stay anyway. Best thing I did was use the recommended oil from this site.... Mobil 1. Rifle runs like a top, and cleans easily.

 

A co-worker of mine was talking to me about ARs.... he was Army... and on the discussion of "how much lube".... his basic recommendation was that if you can taste the CLP shooting.... you're good to go. Not that you don't know.... just thought that was funny. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here is my update.

The new gas block really did help alot. I only had three failure to eject (brass). It was cycling the ammo into the chamber fine. So far I think it likes the 168gr bthp more then the 7.62x51 fed smk. I'm still a little new to using a scoped weapon and learning which way does what with the turrets. Here is my most recent target at 100 yards

20140713_110531_zpse9ffb841.jpg

Something that is slightly throwing me off is my bipod every time I pull the trigger it cants to the right if that's the correct word (tilts). I have the nous tightens all the way but still moves. No me gusta

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something that is slightly throwing me off is my bipod every time I pull the trigger it cants to the right if that's the correct word (tilts). I have the nous tightens all the way but still moves. No me gusta

 

Ed, I've heard here and there that 'clocking' the muzzle brake to something other than 'high noon' can fix that problem, or at least, part of it. Unfortunately, none of those sources offered anything better than guesstimates and rationales, and nothing about comparative results.

 

Likely there's an expert here who knows what brake angle is ideal and how to get that right.

Edited by gnatshooter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't change your brake angle, you would be setting yourself up for far more issues down the road.

Dude, get off the mall ninja forum that you heard that on, that's the stupidest most uninformed answer to a problem.

It sounds like you are pulling at the trigger, not squeezing to a crisp break, hence it canting on your follow through. Also, you may not be shouldering the rifle properly in addition to that, compounding your problem. Slow down. Breathe. Follow through.

Practice. I don't know what your level of experience is, or how much you shoot, but unless it's 500 rounds weekly, you need to practice every time out. Proper technique isn't bestowed on anyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here is my update.

The new gas block really did help alot. I only had three failure to eject (brass). It was cycling the ammo into the chamber fine.

Failure to eject? It was extracting the spent case from the chamber, but not ejecting it? If so, that could be short stroking and you might want to try a lighter buffer.

Something that is slightly throwing me off is my bipod every time I pull the trigger it cants to the right if that's the correct word (tilts). I have the nous tightens all the way but still moves. No me gusta

Do you load your bipod? That will help mitigate cant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...