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Posted

No worry brother. We can still be shoulder to shoulder at the firing line. We'll just let you shoot the things that don't rate being shot by a REAL AR-10. <lmao>

<thumbsup>  <laughs>  <lmao>  

and what's a river rock???? <lmao>  <laughs> 

Thousands of rounds and my AR-10 has never missed a beat, from day 1! 8)

Posted (edited)

Thanks brother,these guys are just jealous,you don't need to be a member of OPEC to keep the rifle running,or break the rifle in.Just point and shoot right out of the box.The only other rifle that MIGHT come close is that Armalite thinga ma bob I here about ONCE in awhile. <lmao>  :fawkdance:

Edited by unforgiven
Posted (edited)

UPDATE:

After I lubed the crap out of my bcg it ran the nolsers with out a hitch. It still failed to eject brass with the 150 barnes blue tips I have so I have no use for those now. Unless someone local wants to buy them haha I only used 3 haha.

Here is a picture with 13 shots I fired. I don't see any fliers unless I totally missed the target20140706_111123_zps3a297a93.jpg

And a pic with the barnes vortex brass. 20140706_105814_zps5e32b95a.jpg

Edited by Cali_Ed
Posted

The only other rifle that MIGHT come close is that Armalite thinga ma bob I here about ONCE in awhile. <lmao>  :fawkdance:

Now you don't actually think that I'm even gonna acknowledge that do ya? <laughs>

Posted (edited)

I thought that's how you tested for bad gas rings but I could be wrong. It was failing to eject the brass. And another problem arose this time. The bcg would get stuck in the forward position after a shot being fired and it would take a lot of force to pull it back. Seemed to get stuck. Only sometimes though. Twist rate is 11.25 I believe. The only stuff I've seemed to have success was the nolser

Edited by Cali_Ed
Posted

   One way to test the gas ring tightness is to take the BCG & flip it over & if the bolt drops all by its self , by its own weight , its too loose .Sounds like you need to bring the round count up to seat components. <thumbsup>

Posted (edited)

UPDATE:

After I lubed the crap out of my bcg it ran the nolsers with out a hitch. It still failed to eject brass with the 150 barnes blue tips I have so I have no use for those now. Unless someone local wants to buy them haha I only used 3 haha.

Here is a picture with 13 shots I fired. I don't see any fliers unless I totally missed the target

And a pic with the barnes vortex brass. 20140706_105814_zps5e32b95a.jpg

 

It might be an optical illusion, but it appears that your forearm is not properly aligned. It looks to be about 1.5 degrees clockwise from TDC. If this is the case, then your barrel nut may also be slightly out of alignment, which would cant your gas tube slightly to one side. This would create friction between the gas tube and the gas key. This would cause FTEject issues, among others.

Edited by Owl21
Posted

It might be an optical illusion, but it appears that your forearm is not properly aligned. It looks to be about 1.5 degrees clockwise from TDC. If this is the case, then your barrel nut may also be slightly out of alignment, which would cant your gas tube slightly to one side. This would create friction between the gas tube and the gas key. This would cause FTEject issues, among others.

I brought up the same thing. Ed said that he didn't have his Fortis Switch QD rail clamped on during that photo.

Posted

I brought up the same thing. Ed said that he didn't have his Fortis Switch QD rail clamped on during that photo.

 

Ok, then the only things I can think of (if using SAAMI spec factory ammo) that could be causing the FTEject issues have already been addressed (under gassed, not broken in), with the exception of a buffer/spring issue. I once had a buffer that would bind up in the tube. It was a few of hundreths out of spec and caused me all kinds of issues until I found it.

 

I would still lean more towards under gassed. Make sure that the block and tube are free of any obstructions (like metal shavings that didn't make it out during manufacture.) Even a faulty gas tube with a longitudinal crack or an improperly seated cap could also be letting gas out.

Posted (edited)

I'll have to double check everything when I get a chance. Here are some pics I took last night after a range trip of my gas tube20140710_172420_zps870d5e84.jpg20140710_172435_zpsbb4317c6.jpg.

I'll add one thing, I didn't completely clean the rifle before yesterday's trip to the range. I just took out the bcg cleaned and re lubed and went.

Ps. My gas tube is just a standard length tube. Probably ment for a ar15 I'm assuming is there such a diffrence between a 308 and ar15 tube

Pass messed with my rifle a bit here before work and my stock ever so slightly can be rocked side to side but only slighty. Same thing with my upper if I grasp it with some good tension I can kinda shift hardly at all though. Just trying to help you guys help me

Edited by Cali_Ed
Posted

It appears that your gas block is leaking gas around the tube. I went an looked at all of my AR's and none of them have that blackening where they exit the gas block. (AR-15 and AR-308 gas tubes are the same.) You might consider changing the block and tube, but wait and see what others think.

Posted (edited)

 Check fitment of gas tube in gas block , should be a some what of tight fit . Its normal to get some bypass gas until it seals its self . If too loose , it will never seal.

 

 

So this is normal?

 

  Your video shows a tight set of rings , get a higher round count to break this rifle in . Are you taking your barrel off the upper receiver to clean/inspect ? If so , the rifle will take longer to set in .

 

  If its just certain ammo failing , use whats working . Run her wet ! 

Edited by survivalshop
Posted

It appears that your gas block is leaking gas around the tube. I went an looked at all of my AR's and none of them have that blackening where they exit the gas block. (AR-15 and AR-308 gas tubes are the same.) You might consider changing the block and tube, but wait and see what others think.

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