survivalshop

The Hand Guard on my 20"HB is a early Fulton Armory one , with added full length Top Rail . I think " Imschur " has one on one of his also . They were all that was available outside of DPMS in the early days of 308AR building . I like it , had to use " LocTite " on the Lock Nut , to keep it from loosening & thats even tightening it with a Customized Spanner Wrench .

He said its ripped , not split , I need to have a visual on what it is . Looks like he used a marker to out line the ripped section , in the one photo of the loaded round , above. Kinda scary thinking your fired case has this issue . Split case could be a Head Spacing issue, if thats what the Crash is referring to, but a ripped case is something different altogether . ?

Six dead & 63 wounded with gun fire in Shitcago

Thats good to know .It just doesn't look like that is the case .

Yes , just remember that the Hand Guard Tube , is the "Barrel Nut "& if removed for any reason after a hole is made , it may not line up as it was originally set up at , after re-installing or should I say ,index the same . The one with the forend coupler may be different , I have no experience with it .

Welcome from Florida.

How about Fulton Armory , there's is longer then an AR 15 rifle length gas tube . http://www.fulton-armory.com/gastuberifle-1.aspx

Have any photo's of the Brass that's ripped ? You have some major issue if you are ripping the spent Brass case, I've never heard or seen one do that , the only thing I can think of is the spent brass is being re-fed & catching on something , but that's really out of the ordinary & an extreme condition. Need to see what the brass looks like . Something doesn't sound right with that info .

The two I have , I replaced the Extractors to a DPMS one & they run fine . Slightly different cures for the same issue , which really shouldn't be happening . This tolerance stacking because of no std. spec's for the 308AR is the real issue .

? Here's to all our fallen Brothers & Sisters .

Not sure where you guy's are going for Surgery or Dental work , but I've never heard of anyone around here or in Ohio, that has been able to do any kind of bartering for any medical work . I have worked for major Hospitals for over thirty years. Not saying its a bad thing , not at all , its American , but just never heard of anyone being able to do that . The ACA is the largest Tax scheme in history , our medical bills are directly higher because of it & will keep raising . We have all been through how it screws us all over , so I'm not going into it ,but this is why its so high .

That would make sense , thing is my last Heart Stint cost $ 72,000.00 , not something I would ever be able to pay for , so I would be a dead man , because I would not of had it done. I don't see how it would adj. out too much cheaper if it was cash only . Lucky my wife has me on her work insurance , the end of the year I go on Medicare & hope her's will cover part "B " .

Probably depends on the Magazine brand your using , some take longer then 2.8" , some don't . I'm usually around 2.795" COL . , but that may be effected by Bullet type or manufacturer. Too short ? The Powder /Bullet may have the most effect on pressure issues on a short COL .

This crap has been going on for a very long time , probably with all branches of services . There are other Fat Leonards out there involved with other branches , maybe this has or will bring them to light .

I have found that my Redding Powder Charger with Ball type Powders is very consistent , never used the type of " click " adj. this Arthur is speaking of . When I use the stick type Powders , like IMR 4064 , I get close with the Powder measure & trickle Powder to get the exact weight & I use a Pact digital Scale for weighing , so they are all exact . Ball types are so close with just using the Redding Powder Charger , no need to weigh each charge , just check once in a while . THE INS AND OUTS OF METERING CHARGES MAY 27, 2016 MIDSOUTH SHOOTERS LEAVE A COMMENT This is a specially-adapted excerpt from the forthcoming book, “Top Grade Ammo,” by author Glen Zediker, owner of Zediker Publishing. Click here to order from Midsouth. by Glen Zediker Most reloaders are going to invest in a powder meter. And, right off, it is a meter, not a “measure.” Meters don’t measure. My preference would be to most accurately call a “powder measure” a “dispenser.” That’s what it really does. The “measure” is comparing a meter hopper volume to a weight on a scale. This may seem tediously technical, but I think it’s important to really understand what we’re doing when we use a powder meter. It’s a volume, not a weight. The volume corresponds to a weight, that we arrived at through adjusting the meter volume. Here’s a Culver. All Culver mechanisms are the same in that they have the same values; there can be differences from model to model in the steps between whole rotations, but each whole rotation is the same. It’s like comparing a ½-moa back sight to a ¼-moa back sight. If you plan on relying on a meter to throw charges, and not weigh each one, you best get a good meter. If the meter is only a starting point, where you are then going to use a powder trickler to top off a scale-weighed charge, meter quality is of no real concern. A powder trickler is a device that delivers propellant a kernel at a time. So what’s a “good” meter? Good question. The very best have Culver dispensing mechanisms. Named for Benchrest pioneer Homer Culver, these precision-made mechanisms click, just like a back sight. Each click, of course, either expands or contracts a void that the propellant fills. The only Culver-equipped meters I know of are produced by smaller shops, and they are more costly. But unlike most of the major-player meter designs, a Culver setting cannot change. There are no set-screws or rotating micrometer stems or barrels. A lot of folks give advice to “check the meter each 10 throws….” Meaning, check to see if it’s still throwing the desired weight (by the way, that would be a pretty bad meter). My experience, which has come from a whopping lot of testing, showed me that my scale was going to change before a Culver would change. The author is adamant about following this process to set a meter: Don’t throw and weigh single charges to adjust the meter. Throw and weigh 10-charge portions, with the scale set, of course, to 10-times the desired single-charge weight. The author does not recollect one time when the meter adjustment did not change following this process from what he first arrived at weighing single throws. Here’s how he sets it to adjust for a 24.0-grain throw. If you look at how a meter works, there’s a volume-adjustable cavity that rotates in position under the propellant supply, fills with propellant, and then rotates back, to dispense the propellant through an outlet. When it rotates, the granules contained in the meter are struck off, fixing and sealing the amount of propellant in the “hopper,” I call it. A few things: One is that the smaller the granules, the more precise each fill can be. Longer-grained kernels have more air space and “stack” more than smaller-grained kernels. It’s also clear that the higher degree of precision on the internal sliding surfaces, the more “clean” the strike-off will be. It’s also clear that meter operation has a lot to do with the consistency of filling the hopper. Just like tapping a case bottom settles the propellant to a lower fill volume, same thing happens when filling the hopper in a meter. Not too heavy, not too light. Work the handle the same each time, and have it come to a positive stop. “Thunk. Thunk.” Focus on a consistent speed. This has a huge effect on how consistent the throws will be. A key to good throws is working the meter handle consistently, and also settling on a contact force when the meter handle comes to a stop in the “fill” direction. It should bump but not bang. I wish I could be more clear on that, but it’s a feel that must be developed. Don’t go too slowly and gingerly take the handle to its stop, and don’t slam it there either. You want a positive, audible “thunk” when the handle stops. If it’s the same each time, fill consistency will improve. I have found that focusing on operating the handle at a constant rate of speed teaches this. It’s a positive movement that, for me, takes about one second to lift the handle. The author recommends longer drop tubes, whether it’s for a meter or a funnel. The longer tube has the same effect as tapping the case to settle the propellant. This helps when loading stick propellant into small cases, like .223 Rem. A dryer sheet rubber-banded around the propellant container eliminates static influence, which indeed can be an influence, especially in the Western regions. And do not leave propellant in a meter! Return it to a sealed container when you’re done for the day. This setup is a Harrell’s Classic with a Sinclair stand. This is a Harrell’s Premium. Its accuracy is astounding and is the author’s choice. With H4895, the “10-throw” test is within a tenth of a grain, for the whole pan-full. Related

Interesting drama .

I read that also about the Medals , thought about how this Administration can & will screw with peoples lives & wouldn't put it past them to do or say anything . They have replaced a lot of very good Officers, in all branches with some of their stooges . I wonder if it the " Wounded Warriors Fund " that they are talking about , because they have been in the news down here a lot for wasting $$ , even after firing their CEO & his exc.. The home office is here in Jacksonville , fl. I could only partly open that link , it kept locking my MacBook up , no idea why , had to restart my Lap Top two get out of it , strange .

Nice job , MM I purchased a small parts kit from D.Wilson & it had a Enhanced Extractor in the Kit & it didn't make a difference . As I said , I have two of his Bolts , one with a complete BCG . I'm debating getting one of his NIB Bolts to see if it has something to do with the finish on the extractor & Bolt. Ya never know , both I have are Nitrated & it may make a difference .

Ya , Man from U.N.C.L.E. I think they used P-38"s , altered of course.

Those who voted to pass this ACA ( O'Butthead care ) should be tried for Treason , along with POTUS !

That's not a bad price on that . Made it hot for ya . http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-tools/10318-ar-15-upper-receiver-lapping-tool.html

I use the spray " Gun Scrubber " , the stuff thats ok on Plastic stocks & such . More expensive then Brake cleaner ( BC, two for one , when on sale at auto parts ) , But no worries if A2 Hand Guards are still on or Rail Covers on .

I also like the Nylon or what ever they are made of , switched a couple years ago & see no ill effects on the Brushes . I still use the Phosphorus Bronze Brushes , but I also use Patches with them , so I screw them up pretty quick , I don't see that happening with the Nylon brushes . I have an array of S/S Brushes also , the reason is mostly for .22LR , because I have gotten some to clean that had never been cleaned in twenty years & the only reason they were brought to me was they quit working . Say or think what you will ,Rifling in the Barrel's were shinny afterwards worked & shot well .