survivalshop

Strange, I use grease on all my bolt lugs & have no problems what so ever . I'm also not one to keep my AR's spotless , I will fire four ,five hundred rounds before I even think about cleaning them & then shoot more before doing so. Of course there are times , when testing new reloads , I will clean the barrel between reloads to make the comparisons are equal . I use GunSlick grease & a synthetic grease "Red & Tacky " , very sparingly, of course . I also use the Red &Tacky on the FCG sear engagements surfaces . I do not use grease in cold weather. Your FTF , have you used different mag manufacturers ? The mags you are using , how do the feel when you push the follower down or when loading the mags ? Are they very difficult to push rounds down or just the follower ?

Chamber pressures are at there peak before the bullet pass's the gas port in the barrel , so, no matter how you adj. the gas block , the pressure on the case has already maxed out for the load formula . Nice shooting , by the way . One more thing while I'm thinking about it . The metal thats cratered around the firing pin hole , its not just deformed , it could be displaced material from another part of the primer & could have weakened it .

Was headspace checked ? I have not used any WW primers of recent production , but have not had any problems with them in the past & still use the old ones I have . AS said , check your loading procedures , COL ,case sizing & charge weighing , all can cause problems if not to spec's. Where is the spent ejected brass ending up ? The primer cratering is showing high pressure signs , with the primer cup material flowing into the firing pin gap in the Bolt. I would not worry about the Bolt ,but if you have blown out primers often , the bolt could be part of the problem or a victim of them . Have you tried factory ammo & if so, how do the cases look ?

FTE could be lower powered ammo for your set up . Commercial 308 is generally at a higher pressure. You should not have a problem with one or the other , but some surplus ammo may not be the same quality as made in USA commercial .

The firing pin hole mark on the spent primer, that's cratered, is of some concern , but those primers do not look all that flattened . Could be the angle we are looking at them . If you see what you believe are high pressure signs , drop the powder load ,I don't care what the manual states as a starting load . A Chronograph would be helpful to determine Velocities . Blown primer ? Could be a fluke , but I would go over my loading procedures , to make sure . New tight build ?

If you have a brass deflector , it would look like this , you can see where the brass is hitting at the back end of the ejection port. .

Ya, he's trying to get some early votes ! But good for NJ.

Just don't do like I did last weekend in testing the Barnes LE bullets . I moved them to the back seat & they were in a slip top case ( which I normally don't use ) & I thought I had them secure , but first braking & it was " 52 pick up " ,so I weighed them all , thinking I would see the changes in weight of the powder charges . Not so , the charges were too close & I have no Idea what was what & my ES &SD & Vol. showed this . I have some of the 168 gr, Hornady match bullets & have used them & they printed pretty good @ 200 yards. , I may have a photo of the target some where. Good luck in your testing of the Hornady's ,seems good bullets are hard to come by or $$$$. I'd be curious of the Chrono stat's if you get some .

I weigh all my brass for target / hunting loads & load them in batches that way. I have found through using a Chronograph , variances in brass volume capacity = pressure changes , which equate to changes in Velocity , which effects grouping & may also shift point of impact . A chronograph is a very valuable tool in load development . I see that now , that I have one & went for thirty years with out one . If I remember correctly , the PMag should take a longer COL. . Have you tried to seat them using a std. COL , like all of them 2.800" or some thing like that . ?

Plain & simple , I like it .

That's an awesome rifle .

I have made some nice cowboy type loads with my hand cast 228 gr. cast RN & they shoot real nice , but I also hunt with a Black Hawk & load Jacketed bullets for it . I got those cranking out there real nice . I have to look up my Chrono results . I've been meaning to get another mold for a heavier bullet .

Must be gone ,because I didn't see them on there sight .

You WIN , Matt , oh wait , or lose. I couldn't wait that long , that returned money in my pocket , would be burning a hole for another BBL..

We need the" perfect storm" of this kinda of stuff , wake them up .

What troubles me about most of the screw adj. gas blocks is, what if the screw blows out ? There is a lot of pressure at the point of screw threading, where screw meets gas block . That would be one mean screw to any one or thing was in its path . I reload my own & don't care how the brass looks or where it lands after I shot the round , just as long as it works & functions like it should . You can go back to the topic of post now .

I will probably be using a Fulton Armory, 18.5 " Med. WT. barrel. I have 16 HB & 20 "HB rifles with FA barrels already.

Hay, cash back & a beautiful BCG , what more could you ask for.

Also check the gas block alignment , if not a tapered pin attachment . Of course its possible, that, that alignment could be off , but unlikely . You can look down at the inside of the stripped upper assembly( no charging handle or BCG ). Use something to gage the gap between the gas tube & the carrier keyway in the upper at the end or tip of the gas tube where it protrudes inside the upper receiver. Normally I can just look down at it & tell its off or not.

Sounds like you have it & we were all new at this at one point or another . Wish I had the internet thirty years ago, or more , for that matter.

Not sure what you mean by gas tube fit ? Are you talking about the bolt fitment into the barrel extension ? Because the bolt carrier group , will need a slight amount of pressure to seat the bolt into the barrel extension when the bolt lugs cam into the barrel extensions locking lugs.

AR 15 Bolt catch or 308 Bolt catch ?

I got a notice that my BCG shipped today .

Lets look at your fire control group , you say all oem DPMS parts ? Separate your lower from the upper so you can see the fire control group in the lower receiver . Put a piece of rubber or some thing soft in front of the bolt catch where the hammer will not slam into it when testing the fire control group . Check the safety , is it working properly or hindering the function of the trigger group. You can hang on to the hammer to slow the drop , if you want , but just see hows its all working in there & if nothing out of the ordinary jumps out at you ,Disassemble & examine all components for abnormal wear or machining marks or burr's . You can test the FCG ,( with out the upper receiver assembly ) with out the safety installed ,just to see how the trigger group functions with out it . Make sure the disconnect moves freely in the trigger pocket & nothing is binding . Yes, run a new build wet for a while . I also think the rifle is not consistently going in to battery , but doesn't hurt to inspect the FCG. Damn , I must be a slow , good you found the fix.

What is Nemo using on there 300WM AR . I'm sure most of the major Surpresssor manufacturers know what works & what doesn't for that cal. Just because its the same thread size , doesn't necessarily mean it will work the best ,but the PRI brake that's on my 20" 308 AR looks like you would have a hard time over pressurizing it.